resin

[wildfelr]

Can any one tell me what type of RESIN the Avanti 2 body was made with ???

[mfg]

I believe that all fiberglass resins, which are activated with clear liquid hardeners, are exactly the same product regardless of brand. Over the past few years I've been using the fiberglass resin manufactured by 'FIBERGLASS EVERCOAT'.

[brad]

It is an Epoxy resin. There are several different resins available however, including polyester. Evercoat has lots of waxes and other modifiers for flow that do not promote good adhesion for subsequent coats. One must be diligent and first wipe down the surface with a good wax and grease remover before sanding it to remove all traces, then you can add a second coat to whatever you are repairing. West Systems is a much better product. Also to prevent shrinkage and show through of sand scratches it's a good idea to add colloidial silica.

[wildfelr]

Well there all sticky...beyond that there are differences....the three that i know of are (1) Polyester (2) vinalester and (3) epoxy.....there may be others ....We can eliminate epoxy period....the other two have different bonding characteristics ( adhesion strength) depending on what surface you are trying to bond to...

and probably the age of the the Avanti layup...in short some might be stronger than orhers...thats my question....thanks...BILL

[wildfelr]

I seriously doubt the Avanti body was layed up using epoxy..but if im wrong tell me where i can get the specs.....thanks ....BILL

[GlennW]

I seriously doubt the Avanti body was layed up using epoxy..but if im wrong tell me where i can get the specs.....thanks ....BILL

Best bet IMHO is find a shop that specializes in early Corvette repair or 60's-70's classic fiberglass boats and see if they'll work with you. Fiberglass loses esters (dries out) over time and adhesion with new glass is always a problem. Since I deal with fairly green glass I don't have any expertise with repairing old stuff. I can get away with roughing something up and scrubbing with acetone & a 3M pad and once it's dry I'm good to go. FWIW I don't know when the Vinyl Ester resins came into production use. Polyester General Purpose (GP) was used extensively in boats in the 60's. Vinyl Esters are stronger and more durable than Polyester, but not as much as the Epoxy resins. The Vinyl can use the same common glass cloth as Polyester and both work well at room temperature. The biggest advantage in addition to knowing what works & doesn't, they may save you big bucks on materials in small qtys. Resins that run around $10 or less per pound in a 55 gal drum or larger qtys. can easily go $20-$30 per quart in that size. Then there's making sure you have the correct mekP for the resin selected and avoiding hazardous shipping fees for buying it online. Likewise, if you're not going to need an 80 pound roll of fabric...

Edited December 19, 2014 by GlennW

[wildfelr]

Thanks Glenn...Im taking your advice...checking w/ early corvette restorers....Im betting its polyester but i like to be sure ...for all the reasons you described ...thanks again .... BILL RQB 3263

[GlennW]

My pleasure, would love to know if there's some "new" super dooper bonding agent or whatever for repairs . My fairings may be new but my Avanti sure isn't

[brad]

I'll put my work up against any corvette people anywhere. Since the Avanti was a pressed body, and not a laid up chopped mold, the fibers are much much drier.

99% of all the repairs I have seen were done with a wet layup and is the wrong way to go. It makes for a much harder repair that does not expand and contract the same as the surrounding material. My repairs won't suddenly show in the hot sun!

SMC (sheet molded compound) adhesives are a good repair filler.

Edited December 20, 2014 by brad

[GlennW]

I don't recall anyone questioning your work, or am I reading something wrong? Obviously some info from one who's already been doing it would be great if you'd like to share with us or at least the original poster. Thanks for the SMC info, due to the higher cost of SMC tooling I always thought Avanti panels would have been RTM or even LRTM considering the rush to production. Some of the body shapes don't seem to lend themselves to SMC pressing, like the front ridges where the fender rolls down to the bumper.

[wildfelr]

WELL YOUALL LOST ME....I WAS JUST WONDERING OUT LOUD WHAT THE BEST repair resin is for the original layup.....my next project may require quite a bit of FG work....in my dreams ...rqb3263

[wildfelr]

OK ....I have recently read where some owners have replaced there backup lights with a second set of tail lights.....This sounds like a good idea to me. since my backup lights dont work anyway..........but where do i get the red lens material ???

[wildfelr]

rqb3263 Would be interested in a set of glass headlight covers if there are any available out there in Avanti land....ph. 352-475-3190

[Gunslinger]

OK ....I have recently read where some owners have replaced there backup lights with a second set of tail lights.....This sounds like a good idea to me. since my backup lights dont work anyway..........but where do i get the red lens material ???

Give Nostalgic Motors or Myer's Studebaker a call. At least one of them should have the red lenses in stock.

[GlennW]

OK ....I have recently read where some owners have replaced there backup lights with a second set of tail lights.....This sounds like a good idea to me. since my backup lights dont work anyway..........but where do i get the red lens material ???

Another possibility is leaving the BU housings stock (except for the wiring) and putting in the brightest red LED cluster lamps you can find in place of the usual clear incandescent lamp. Thay way it'll all look stock until you hit the brakes. It would be easy to put a pair of white LEDs or maybe a striplight of 'em where they wouldn't be conspicuous, maybe even 2 LED panel lights in the lower holes of your license plate. You could also go with dual element sockets in the BU and rewire the them as complete additional tail lights with hi/lo cluster red LEDs. Personally, I'm going to go with the first option, as I think it'd be more noticeable to have additional reds come on during braking where there'd previously been no light showing.

Edited December 30, 2014 by GlennW

[GlennW]

WELL YOUALL LOST ME....I WAS JUST WONDERING OUT LOUD WHAT THE BEST repair resin is for the original layup.....my next project may require quite a bit of FG work....in my dreams ...rqb3263

I don't see where you did anything wrong and I certainly don't see why an excellent shop in Missouri would be offended over DIY advice given to a person in Florida, or not chime in to help. But that's just me. I can't imagine a dentist not chipping in to answer a general filling process question for fear everybody would start drilling their own teeth. ☺

Edited December 30, 2014 by GlennW

[brad]

I think you read more into this than was intended. And as for posting a tutorial on repair, I'm very busy. This is not a hobby for me, sorry you were offended.When I get a little time, I will try to write something up, that is comprehensive.

There are many, many different opinions on repair. Just look up one that you think may work on youtube. I don't presume to know any better than anyone else, so I won't bore you all and say my way is any better than someone else may have done.

Thanks, Happy New Year

Brad

Edited December 31, 2014 by brad

[GlennW]

I think you read more into this than was intended. And as for posting a tutorial on repair, I'm very busy. This is not a hobby for me, sorry you were offended.When I get a little time, I will try to write something up, that is comprehensive.

There are many, many different opinions on repair. Just look up one that you think may work on youtube. I don't presume to know any better than anyone else, so I won't bore you all and say my way is any better than someone else may have done.

Thanks, Happy New Year

Brad

My apologies Brad, my goal of becoming a complete idiot is not yet achieved, but I'm making great progress lately. Somehow I completely missed your earlier reply that included, "it is epoxy-based", which was the OP's question. Again, I apologize and I'll do a shot of PVA in your honor

Edited December 31, 2014 by GlennW

[wildfelr]

Today I completed the taillight/back-up light mod I seen discussed in this forum. Simple job and all materials cost less than 30$....including red replacement red lenses ($1.50 each)...new double element sockets from Car Quest (12.50 each)..misc. wire split loom ($3.00) and nylon line clamps....The new back-up lights are re positioned behind the bumper on either side of license plate...almost invisible are 21/4 inch round seven LED held in by their rubber grommet ($13.00 each)....A minor mod was req. to the new tail/turn sockets but the rest was easy...I spliced the new right turn wire into the green wire on the right existing tail/turn unit....and...I spliced the left one into the brown or tan wire on the left existing turn tail unit..the better part of the afternoon and very little $$$...works great !!

[wildfelr]

When changing transmissions from the original (rqb3263) th350 to 700r4 ....what changes or modifications if any are necessary to connect the shift linkage ??..Please enlighten me ....thanks ...BILL...352-475-3190 in FL