Avanti Window!

[mfg]

Since there aren't any limit switches at the top and bottom of a Studebaker Avanti's power window travel, it's always a good idea to......?.....

1) Keep assembly well lubed......2) Make sure bolts holding regulator are correct length.....3) Release the button on switch.....or.....4) Not over-use power window

[studegary]

1 hour ago, mfg said:

Since there aren't any limit switches at the top and bottom of a Studebaker Avanti's power window travel, it's always a good idea to......?.....

1) Keep assembly well lubed......2) Make sure bolts holding regulator are correct length.....3) Release the button on switch.....or.....4) Not over-use power window

I think that all four are good ideas for the "delicate" pw's.

[mfg]

6 hours ago, studegary said:

I think that all four are good ideas for the "delicate" pw's.

This is true, however, one answer REALLY stands out!.....Remember........ "limit switches"!

Anyone else?

[brad]

I reinforce the opening that you put the regulator in the door. The stock door flexes from the regulator pivot down to that opening, and eventually cracks. I make up a steel strap, and rivet it both inside, and outside the opening on the perimeter lip. It stops flexing before it gets a chance to crack. If it is already cracked, then repair that first. (Not in the inside) you don't have room inside the door to reinforce the pivot area without it binding, or hitting the glass as it goes up and down. I like to use the later regulator motors that use the Jeep motors, and gear drive, and use Nu-Relics T-bird type switches and wiring. Much, much better than stock, and look identical. Half of the wiring crap to fit through the doors too.

https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/217.htm

 

Edited October 14, 2019 by brad

[Avanti83]

Just to add to Brad's thoughts, I used the entire Nu-Relics power lift window system on my 74 Avanti with excellent success. Not inexpensive at $450 or so for the pair with switches and wiring but not much more than a total restoration of the old parts. Bought them from Bob Ziff.

[mfg]

Thanks for those excellent tips guys.....brittle, cracked wiring is definitely a big problem on these 50+ year old cars!

 

I guess I'll give up the answer to this question, which is #3.....Folks should get off those buttons ASAP, as the electric motors just KEEP ON CRANKING if  switch button isn't released!