Jim78
-
Posts
273 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Jim78
-
-
On 1/15/2017 at 3:31 PM, silverstude said:
Roughly;
66-69 Avanti II used Corvette 327/300 engines / 70 - 71 used the 350/300 (Corvette) engine, 72 - 77 used the 400 (non Corvette) engine - 78 -? used 350/? - somewhere around the early 80's the 305 engine came into play, both HO and standard version. The 305 was used extensively afterwards..
According to the SBC sites, the numbers on my '78 identify the engine as an L-48 which is a 350, originally used in Corvettes and Monte Carlos. It has the finned aluminum valve covers, and the stainless ignition shielding as in the Corvette (the chrome air cleaner lid is aftermarket).
PHOTO DELETED DUE TO ATTACHMENT LIMITS
-
The indicator lights should come on with the headlights, not go off. It almost sounds like there is a wire on the wrong lug of the switch. There is some information about the electrical circuits to be found on Bob Johnstone's web site.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Diagrams/aec/aec.html
-
"dogkiller" Really?
-
Just to clarify a little... We are talking about dielectric grease. It is generally a low viscosity silicone grease, which is by definition non-conductive. If it were conductive, it would create short circuits in applications like light bulb sockets. The benefit of its use is to protect an electrical connection from water, dirt and corrosion. So, the best procedure is to disassemble a connection, clean it thoroughly to remove any existing dirt and corrosion, reassemble with the grease. Depending on the type of connection, the grease may need to be applied to the components prior to assembly. It is important that the connection itself is mechanically tight, or the insulating grease can actually cause a resistance problem.
This type of grease also has value in lubricating moving contacts, as would be found in your light switch. But, here again, the actual contacts in the switch have to have sufficient force to ensure good conductivity.
-
Jim,
That cowl strip is important. I recall hearing somewhere, that the cowl section of the wx/strip was allowing hot underhood air to bleed by and get sucked into the cowl air intake..... warming up the interior. It's important that it seals correctly..
That certainly makes sense. It wouldn't matter whether the strip was attached to the hood or cowl, as long as it sealed. I do recall the strip being attached to the cowl on my '63, because it made it difficult to remove the grill to access wiper linkage and the washer hose/nozzle. I was trying to get a sense of when the change was made. From Bruce's comment, it would appear to have been at or before 1970.
-
I just found some pictures that I had taken of a totally original, 10,000 mile '77 Avanti. It also has the weatherstrip on the underside of the hood. I'm going to guess that somewhere along the way they used up the cowl mounted strips. The hood-mounted strip appears to be a different cross section than the one used on the cowl.
-
My '78 has the hood/cowl weatherstrip attached to the underside of the hood, rather than to the top of the cowl. Does anyone else have this arrangement, or was mine installed incorrectly when the car was re-painted? There is no evidence of there ever having been adhesive on the cowl, but I can see old adhesive under the new paint on the hood. Just curious.
-
I have found a good source of engine parts (e.g. air cleaner, valve cover grommets, gaskets etc.) at Corvette America.
www.corvetteamerica.com/
They are located near Reedsville, PA. If you're coming to the swap meet next month, Corvette America is worth a visit.
-
What Gunslinger said. As far as the manuals, Studebaker International offers a CD with the Avanti Shop Manual and Parts Manual on it.
-
The seats on my '78 have a plate with a loop for the latching mechanism at the back of of the seat cushion. It is held in place by two phillips head screws. It appears that the seat back angle could be changed by putting a shim under this plate.
-
Another view...
-
78 Avanti Left Rear. There is no hole in the backing plate to allow manual adjustment. Preliminary adjustment is made with the drum off, then self-adjusters should maintain proper adjustment.
-
Mike, there is no sound at all. The instrument dials such as the ammeter and fuel gauge will drop when you turn the key. The starter will easily start after placing jumping cables on it.
Where should I look for grounding? At the starter or between the frame and the engine?
Where are you putting the jumper cables that allow it to start?
If putting a cable from the frame of the starter to the negative battery post helps, you probably have a bad ground cable to the engine block. If a cable from positive to the solenoid lug (with the existing cable) helps, the positive cable is bad. If you are bypassing the solenoid and going directly to the starter, the solenoid is bad.
-
My '78 has 4 keys. The ignition (pentagon Chrysler head), door (oval head GM type), glove box (long, round head Chrysler), and gas door (short, round head).
I am amazed that on a "luxury $$$" vehicle, they used that ugly, cheesy tool-box lock for the gas door. I had to replace my gas door with an earlier one with no lock.
-
The Avanti power steering is totally unlike the old GM "one-finger" systems. What you are describing seems somewhat normal. You need to look at the Avanti shop manual. There is a procedure to check the force required on the steering wheel to determine if the system is producing the proper assist. There is a troubleshooting guide to follow if it is not correct. Whoever rebuilt the system may not have adjusted the nut on the spool bolt correctly. This will affect the amount of force required to steer.
-
The rear courtesy lights are supposed to only work with their individual switches...they're not controlled by the door jamb switches. The door jamb switches control the map light under the dash. That's also assuming a '76 Avanti still uses the Studebaker courtesy light assemblies...at some point a different light assembly was used and may or may not be wired the same as the original design.
On my '78, all three lights are turned on by the jamb switches. The courtesy lights are the old Studebaker style. The interesting part is the manual operation: When the map light is turned on manually, only the map light illuminates. When a rear courtesy light is turned on manually, ALL THREE lights turn on. The interesting circuit diagram is on Bob Johnstone's site
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/aec/aec3.html
Page 5B. There is a diode that prevents the map light manual switch from turning on the courtesy lights. It appears that this revised circuit was introduced in '77.
-
Agree ^^^^^. The first point of interference is usually the front crankshaft pulley with the bellcrank assembly. Chevy made a ton of different diameter crankshaft pulleys so one needs to chose the one that gives clearance. Remember to match the other pulleys, particularly the water pump with the CS pulley.
The other point of interference is the oil pan to bellcrank steering assembly. Again, Chevy has a wide variety of dimensions for the front of the oil pan. One could use a hammer but I just find the pan I need at a swap meet or parts supplier and move on.
Of course the other issue is the drivers side exhaust manifold but that's been beat to death.
The SBC was used in '65-'66 sedans,apparently without pulley or pan issues. The frame and bellcrank should be the same as the Avanti. Does anyone know how they accomplished this?
-
Caveat emptor. Knowing the S/N of a vehicle for sale can be very important, as it can help to establish the history of the car. For example, Bob Johnstone's site ( http://www.studebaker-info.org/avantiRQBverc.html) has historical information about many Avantis, by serial number. There have been occasions where vehicles listed for sale as pristine, low mileage examples showed up in the historical files as being very rough at some time in their past. This information may or may not be known to the current owner/seller. This is kind of like a "CARFAX" for Avantis.
That said, let me emphasise that I am by no means suggesting that there is anything of that nature involved with this particular Avanti. I am only pointing out that there are valid reasons for wanting to know the S/N. I, personally, would not bid on a vehicle without knowing the number.
Conversely, let me pose the question to the group, "Is there any reason that you would not want to include the S/N or VIN when you list a vehicle on ebay?"
-
If my memory is OK (not always the case) the neutral safety and back-up switch arrangement on my '78 is the same as what was on my '63.
-
In the FWIW category, in order to open both doors fully, I need a garage at least 13'-4" wide.
-
Devildog mentions that he has no antenna mast, so his '75 may have the "window trim" antenna, too. The most likely loose connection may be where the antenna wire is connected to the screw that goes through the molding.
-
My '78 has no antenna mast. What I found is that they used the stainless steel molding around the rear glass as the antenna. Above the left quarter panel, the screw through the molding is a machine screw, with a wire connected to it on the inside. I don't know if this was frequently done on on '78 models, or models from other years. Anyone else have this?
-
Easiest way is probably just buy this harness off Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807?hash=item4d10fe72e7:g:474AAOSwEK9Trseb&vxp=mtr
This looks like exactly what would be needed at a fair price. Their chart says that it is not compatible with the Avanti. I really can't see why not, except that the body-ground pigtails wouldn't work, and these wires would have to be spliced to actual ground wires.
-
Brad,
Step 1: Call two sure-handed friends.
I assume that you have new seals to install, and don't care about destroying the old ones. The seals are basically H-shaped, with one side holding the glass and the other over the body fence. I have found the safest method is to use a razor knife to cut away the leg of the H that is inside the body fence. Then push the glass out to your two friends who will carefully lift it away from the car.
Be nice to those two friends, because you will need them again for the installation. I think the method using the sash cord is the easiest for the install. I would suggest one hint... Before putting the seal on the glass, put some masking tape on the outside of the glass at bottom center, and on the body opposite it (for a couple of inches above and below). With the assistance of your friends, hold the glass in the opening and get it exactly centered. Draw a line on the two pieces of tape as a witness mark. Install the seal on the glass, and use the marks to center the glass when you first set it in place. This is particularly helpful for the rear window, eliminating trial and error where you get halfway up the side and realize the glass is an 1/8" too far to one side or the other. BTDT.
Jim
car show question
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
I have personally never seen one with factory knock offs. However, one learns to never say never when talking about how an Avanti might have been equipped from the factory. It seems that, given enough cash, one could order some unusual things.