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Jim78

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Posts posted by Jim78

  1. Good afternoon,

    I am going through the braking system on a 1978 Avanti II and wonder if anyone has part numbers for for rear drum brake components?

    Thanks,

    Tom

    When I replaced the wheel cylinders on my '78, I found that '78 Ford Fairmont w/10" brakes #W37782/3 interchanged.

  2. Anyway I am just learning these cars and I went to check under the tire cover but I can't get the damn cover off!!!!???? it seems there is some sort of latch but anyway I try it doesn't release the cover. Is there some trick to these things???? I would really appreciate some help, feeling really stupid.

    Looking at your first photo, it appears that the over-center latch mechanism is already released and clear. This latch, and the forward edge of the board being tucked under, should be all that should be holding the cover in place. At this point, I would try to work an implement like a wide screwdriver under the rear lip of the cover near the latch, and lift. The underside of the plywood may just be stuck to the tire.

    If the cover still refuses to move, I would suspect that a P.O. added some other method to hold the cover, because the latch wouldn't close due to the thickness of the tire. I see that the carpeting is not original. Feel around the middle of the cover to see if there might have been a long bolt or all-thread with a nut on top added, running down through the middle of the spare wheel. There might be a flap in the carpet to get to it. It's a long shot, but I've encountered stranger modifications on Avantis.

  3. I have heard that 74 was the last year for the Studebaker steering box which had a tighter ratio than the 75 and up. The quick steering arms available from our vendors are supposed to make the 75 and up steer like the 74 and back models. I recently went through the whole steering column thing and yours should have an AMC column which is actually a GM column with an AMC part #. It can be confusing because Avanti installed Chrysler ignition locks in these columns. Probably because the Studebaker door locks I was told by a locksmith are or are really close to MOPAR blanks. This way the door lock and ignition keys could be the same. Both Chrysler (MOPAR) and GM ignition locks will fit these GM columns.

    My ignition key is a Mopar. The door key is nothing like it. The '78 is after the door locks were moved from the handle to the door below, so there is a distinctly different oval shaped key for the doors.

    If I wanted to replace the "forklift" box with an earlier box from a P/S equipped Studebaker, would this be a bolt on swap? Is there a particular year range of boxes that would work on the Avanti? Are there any clearance issues with the exhaust from the 350?

  4. Hello,

    After refurbishing the brakes of my 63r1 2427 avanti the car was ok for a first run.

    motor was running well, auto gear box doing its works but lot of noise coming from back axle.

    It seemed the car needed to change the two back roller bearings of the dana 44 axle.

    I order them to my suppliers but forgotten to get two outter oil seals (stamped 14748 on the ones that were on the car).

    When i get back to the catalog in order to purchase them I didn't saw them on the back axle scheme.

    Were the one on the car not mandatory? Are they still available?

    Can anyone get me a photo of their axle or a close up scheme?

    Thank you for your help.

    Pierre

    Pierre,

    I'm not sure from your post whether you have yet disassembled the axle or changed the bearings. If you have not, check to be sure that the noise coming from the rear is not just a bad rear universal joint. If the car is equipped with a "Twin Traction" differential, changing the lubricant can often make terrible noises disappear. If you haven't lubricated the axles bearings, it would be a good idea.

    I will assume from your serial number that you have tapered (rather than flanged) axles. The axle bearings of the Dana 44 are lubricated only by packing them with wheel bearing grease. There is an inner seal that prevents the differential lubricant from leaking out into the bearings, and an outer "dust shield" that keeps the brake dust out of the bearing, and prevents the wheel bearing grease from leaking onto the brakes (very unlikely with modern grease. To lubricate these bearings is quite a chore, so on many Studebakers it just never got done.

    The outer seals are still available for Studebaker International as part # 533161, at $20/ea. If the felt portion of your old seals is still OK and snug on the hub, I wouldn't bother to replace them.

    One note of caution. Be mindful of any shims that are found between the brake backing plate and the axle housing. These are normally found on the right end of the axle housing. These shims are used to set the end play in the axle bearings. If you are replacing the bearings, it is very important to follow the procedure to set the end play with shims.This procedure is detailed in the Shop Manual.

  5. I have been thinking on converting my automatic R-1 to a manual transmission with overdrive. I like to keep things original, however, I prefer the manuals. Living in Southern, CA low revs on the freeway is what I am looking for. A couple of questions,

    1. What are the RPMs of the stock Stude overdrive at around 70 mph using a more common 3:31 rear axle? Is it much lower than the auto?

    2. Are there any modern 5 speed transmissions that fit the Stude 289?

    3. Has anyone done this that has advice to offer regarding ease of conversion?

    Paul,

    Thanks,

    Paul Katson

    Go to the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. Use the "Search" function, and you can find much discussion on this topic. The standard Studebaker overdrive transmission may not fit because of the X-member, and there are several other options. There have been a number of folks who have mated modern 5-speed transmissions to the Studebaker motor, and various adapter plates are available to do this. Obviously, going from the automatic to standard would require acquiring the clutch pedal and linkage. Another (probably simpler) option is to swap to a late model GM automatic transmission with overdrive. That's been done, too.

  6. When I bought my 73 Avanti II I did notice the tool pouch. The insides were just dusty so I had my choice of what tools to add. Over the years and many repairs later, I decided to use the tool slots as storage for rolls of $5's,$10's and $20's, and a few $50's.

    Later on, I just added a check book inside the glove box vantiy draw.

    Mark

    I've heard of people putting a lot of money into their Avanti......but not literally.

  7. In 1975 I toured the Avanti factory, and never saw any tools installed in the tool pouches. Also, I've worked on several original owner Avanti's over the years and none of them had any tools when delivered from the factory. Basically, it is your choice what to carry in the pouch.

    My choice, eh? Try as I might, I just can't get those Yuengling bottles to fit into the pockets.

    Some of the high end cars of the day did include a tool kit. I guess that Avanti wasn't one of them. It seems odd that they would bother to include the pouch, but not fill it. Maybe there was a subliminal message that you would never need to repair the car!

  8. Since authenticity is not a major concern for me, it sounds like a modern aftermarket type is the way to go. I have the Mopar steering column. I'll just have to find something compatible with the "old fashioned" cable drive speedometer. Thanks for your input.

    It's interesting that in my newer cars (with overdrive) I tend to exceed the speed limit when not using cruise control. While with the Avanti (without overdrive) I tend to slow down. I guess that it's the brain being tuned to the sound and RPMs of the engine.

  9. My '78 was not equipped with cruise control. I would like to add it. Can anyone offer any information and/or pictures of what type of unit was used on Avantis of this era? Was it an "aftermarket" type, or was it a unit from another vehicle? How/where were the controls mounted? Might someone have an NOS or used unit available for sale?

  10. I just went out and re-checked for a sight glass, the dryer is along side of the condensor behind the grill. No sight glass, also tracked the lines from the firewall to the compressor and condensor and none found either

    Look on top of the receiver/dryer cylinder. The sight glass is often in a small recess, covered by black paint. Scratch away the paint and the sight glass should be exposed.

  11. Is the system empty, or just low? Do you know where is it leaking?

    R-12 has become extremely hard to locate, and very expensive. To add R-12 to a leaking system can get pretty expensive. That said, the best way to service the system requires a set of A/C gauges. If the system is very low or empty, the dryer should be changed and the system vacuumed before charging the system.

    If you're just looking to "top off" the system, clean off the sight glass on top of the dryer and watch the R-12 as you run the system with the engine at fast idle. There should be a few bubbles visible in the R-12. If there are a lot of bubbles, hook up your servicing hose to the LOW pressure side fitting and add the R-12 until most of the bubbles disappear.

  12. I am looking for an estimate of what my Avanti may have cost when purchased new. Did they have anything resembling a "window sticker"?

    The car has few options, no sunroof, power windows, etc. Any idea what the price would have been?

  13. I have a nice "driver" quality rear bumper, complete with boxing gloves, for sale. I'm asking $350. Since it is best to see used chrome in person, I will be bringing it to York on Friday/Saturday. If anyone would like to look at it, call my cell 717-994-3967 on Friday/Saturday at York.

  14. My '78 has two switches for power windows, even though the car was not equipped with them. There is also a switch for auxiliary lights which were not installed, either. It appears that they filled all four holes with switches, whether they were needed or not. There is a plate below the switches that lists their function. Apparantly, that plate is missing on your car. Your switches may be for accessories that weren't installed.

  15. I guess your battery could have suddenly developed an open cell but that does seem doubtful. I'd first take a meter to be sure you've got a good battery. If that's the case with the meter probes on the battery posts, you may have a bad connection on the battery post. If I were you, I'd start at the battery with a meter and work forward.

    For instance: If you have a good battery and battery post connections, I'd disconnect the positive cable on the battery and remove the ignition switch, but not the wires leading to it, from the back of the panel. (This is to make sure you don't short the battery terminal on the switch to the metal bar behind the switch.) Then, making sure the terminals of the switch aren't against anything, reconnect the battery. Then take a meter and be sure you have power coming to the switch terminal labelled 'Bat'. You can turn your switch to the various positions to see if you have power there. You can use your meter to see if you have power to the fuse block, etc. You should have power to the fuse block for the lights circuit even with the switch in the off position.

    My guess is it's something simple. Good luck.

    The Avanti in question is a '78, so the ignition switch is in the steering column, not the dash. It can't be simply removed like the older style. But, the rest of the advice is sound. Get a volt meter and, starting from the battery, determine where voltage is or is not present. Let us know what you find.

  16. I just got through installing new wood veneer console and dash panels in RQB-2698. Got all the gauges back in and everything looks nice. BUT - no electrical - no lights, nothing. Battery is charged. I did label all the wiring to the gauges and put them back the way they came out. Fuses all look fine. Did I mess up something?

    Would appreciate some help.

    Did you disconnect the battery during the work on your dash? Are the battery connections clean and tight? Do you have 12V at the fuse panel?

  17. Thanks, beautiful car and I was thinking Magnum 500 but the spinners were throwing me for a loop.

    Thanks for your comments. I really like the '78 Avanti, but still prefer the looks of the original. I drove 63R3351 for 29 years, so I guess that's why I"m partial to the original lines. To that end, I removed the frame horns and got rid of the "boxing gloves" on the rear bumper. Fortunately, the P.O. removed the "II" emblems and side moldings when he had the car painted. I like the look of the Avanti hood ornament too, but I haven't decided whether I'll add that or not.

    One note about the Magnum 500 spinners: They are 3-pronged, on a 5-lug wheel. The result is that one lug nut on each wheel is blocked by the spinner. So, you need to carry a breaker bar with a socket to get the last lug in the event of a flat tire. Not good design, but I think that the spinners look good. The '78 came from the factory with 6" Magnum 500 wheels, with the plain center.

  18. My '78 had the outer portion of the bumper removed, and a light kit installed on the stubs. I really didn't like the look. Since the frame extensions support the body, they can't simply be removed. I carefully supported the body under the radiator support and removed the frame extensions one at a time. I cut them off with a band saw, just forward of the body support. I bought a new reproduction '63 style grill from SI for $225. I was very disappointed with the construction and fit. But, the overall effect was what I was looking for. IMHO the car looks much better without the cow catcher.

    DSCF4812.jpg

  19. My '78 has new Magnum 500 wheels, but they are 7" wide. The P.O. of the car (who has a tire business) said that 6" rims are NLA in the Magnum wheel. The 7" rims fit OK, but I do get a rub on the left upper control arm when I make a hard right turn while backing up. Left turn is OK. The car has the quick steering arms, which would change the geometry at full turn. In any event, be aware that the fit with the 7" is marginal, and may take some tweaking of the front end adjustments.

  20. Rob,

    You may also want to post your questions on the Technical page of the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum:

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/default.asp

    There's a LOT of help available there.

    Shop manuals are available from several vendors. You can locate them through the SDC site. I would recommend purchasing a manual before you proceed. There's lots of valuable information there. As to the squeak, it sounds like a bad throwout bearing. Not a big deal if you are pulling the transmission anyway. It is possible that your problem with popping out of second is a linkage adjustment, but more likely it is an internal problem.

    Safety first with the jack stands! For transmission work, I prefer to put the front wheels on steel ramps, then jack the rear axle, and support it with GOOD HD jack stands. I've found this to be more stable, and there isn't really a good spot under the front of the Avanti to use jack stands.

    The transmission is not too heavy, but it is awkward, especially with the frame X-member. Having a hydraulic floor jack to help support it on the way out is helpful. The rear engine mounts are on the bell housing, so there is no need to support the engine if you are removing the transmission only.

  21. Mike,

    I had exactly the same problem with my sending unit. Wear and corrosion on the wiper and copper caused the gauge to jump wildly, particularly under a half tank. It also ran dry at 1/4 indicated.

    I bought a replacement unit from Studebaker International. Unfortunately, it is not a very good replacement. It appears to be a generic for the SW gauge, and the arm is actually too short for the Avanti tank. The Avanti tank requires about 10-1/2 inches of sending unit travel which is much more than the typical tank. I had to straighten the wire arm to get anywhere near to the swing required. It works, but now indicates E with about 4 gallons remaining. I guess that it's better than running out at 1/4 on the gauge! To make this generic type work better, you would need to lengthen the arm.

    I don't know what Nostalgic Motors has to offer, or whether it is actually a direct replacement. Maybe someone else has tried theirs and can comment.

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