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Jim78

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Posts posted by Jim78

  1. If you have access to a pair of "drive-on" ramps, they make this job easier.  Get an assistant to sit in the car and rock the steering wheel back and forth through the free play.  Then follow the motion down through the system.  Check the steering box to see how much difference there is in the motion of the input shaft versus the output.  Also, check that the steering box itself is not loose on the frame (I have encountered this on my Avanti).  Then get under the car and look for lost motion at all of the joints.  Pay particular interest to the center bellcrank.  Any looseness there will result in steering play. 

  2. I agree with Gunslinger.  When I had my '63, I was always concerned with the originality of the car.  With my '78, I am much more comfortable with changing things to suit my preferences, which is in line with how the Avanti was marketed at that time. 

  3. I have personally never seen one with factory knock offs.  However, one learns to never say never when talking about how an Avanti might have been equipped from the factory.  It seems that, given enough cash, one could order some unusual things.

     

  4. On 1/15/2017 at 3:31 PM, silverstude said:

     

    Roughly;

    66-69 Avanti II used Corvette 327/300 engines / 70 - 71 used the 350/300 (Corvette) engine, 72 - 77 used the 400 (non Corvette) engine  - 78 -? used 350/? -  somewhere around  the early 80's the 305 engine came into play, both HO and standard version.  The 305 was used extensively afterwards.. 

    According to the SBC sites, the numbers on my '78 identify the engine as an L-48 which is a 350, originally used in Corvettes and Monte Carlos.  It has the finned aluminum valve covers, and the stainless ignition shielding as in the Corvette (the chrome air cleaner lid is aftermarket).

    PHOTO DELETED DUE TO ATTACHMENT LIMITS

     

  5. Just to clarify a little... We are talking about dielectric grease. It is generally a low viscosity silicone grease, which is by definition non-conductive. If it were conductive, it would create short circuits in applications like light bulb sockets. The benefit of its use is to protect an electrical connection from water, dirt and corrosion. So, the best procedure is to disassemble a connection, clean it thoroughly to remove any existing dirt and corrosion, reassemble with the grease. Depending on the type of connection, the grease may need to be applied to the components prior to assembly. It is important that the connection itself is mechanically tight, or the insulating grease can actually cause a resistance problem.

    This type of grease also has value in lubricating moving contacts, as would be found in your light switch. But, here again, the actual contacts in the switch have to have sufficient force to ensure good conductivity.

  6. Jim,

    That cowl strip is important. I recall hearing somewhere, that the cowl section of the wx/strip was allowing hot underhood air to bleed by and get sucked into the cowl air intake..... warming up the interior. It's important that it seals correctly..

    That certainly makes sense. It wouldn't matter whether the strip was attached to the hood or cowl, as long as it sealed. I do recall the strip being attached to the cowl on my '63, because it made it difficult to remove the grill to access wiper linkage and the washer hose/nozzle. I was trying to get a sense of when the change was made. From Bruce's comment, it would appear to have been at or before 1970.

  7. I just found some pictures that I had taken of a totally original, 10,000 mile '77 Avanti. It also has the weatherstrip on the underside of the hood. I'm going to guess that somewhere along the way they used up the cowl mounted strips. The hood-mounted strip appears to be a different cross section than the one used on the cowl.

  8. My '78 has the hood/cowl weatherstrip attached to the underside of the hood, rather than to the top of the cowl. Does anyone else have this arrangement, or was mine installed incorrectly when the car was re-painted? There is no evidence of there ever having been adhesive on the cowl, but I can see old adhesive under the new paint on the hood. Just curious.

  9. The seats on my '78 have a plate with a loop for the latching mechanism at the back of of the seat cushion. It is held in place by two phillips head screws. It appears that the seat back angle could be changed by putting a shim under this plate.

  10. Mike, there is no sound at all. The instrument dials such as the ammeter and fuel gauge will drop when you turn the key. The starter will easily start after placing jumping cables on it.

    Where should I look for grounding? At the starter or between the frame and the engine?

    Where are you putting the jumper cables that allow it to start?

    If putting a cable from the frame of the starter to the negative battery post helps, you probably have a bad ground cable to the engine block. If a cable from positive to the solenoid lug (with the existing cable) helps, the positive cable is bad. If you are bypassing the solenoid and going directly to the starter, the solenoid is bad.

  11. My '78 has 4 keys. The ignition (pentagon Chrysler head), door (oval head GM type), glove box (long, round head Chrysler), and gas door (short, round head).

    I am amazed that on a "luxury $$$" vehicle, they used that ugly, cheesy tool-box lock for the gas door. I had to replace my gas door with an earlier one with no lock.

  12. The Avanti power steering is totally unlike the old GM "one-finger" systems. What you are describing seems somewhat normal. You need to look at the Avanti shop manual. There is a procedure to check the force required on the steering wheel to determine if the system is producing the proper assist. There is a troubleshooting guide to follow if it is not correct. Whoever rebuilt the system may not have adjusted the nut on the spool bolt correctly. This will affect the amount of force required to steer.

  13. The rear courtesy lights are supposed to only work with their individual switches...they're not controlled by the door jamb switches. The door jamb switches control the map light under the dash. That's also assuming a '76 Avanti still uses the Studebaker courtesy light assemblies...at some point a different light assembly was used and may or may not be wired the same as the original design.

    On my '78, all three lights are turned on by the jamb switches. The courtesy lights are the old Studebaker style. The interesting part is the manual operation: When the map light is turned on manually, only the map light illuminates. When a rear courtesy light is turned on manually, ALL THREE lights turn on. The interesting circuit diagram is on Bob Johnstone's site

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/aec/aec3.html

    Page 5B. There is a diode that prevents the map light manual switch from turning on the courtesy lights. It appears that this revised circuit was introduced in '77.

  14. Agree ^^^^^. The first point of interference is usually the front crankshaft pulley with the bellcrank assembly. Chevy made a ton of different diameter crankshaft pulleys so one needs to chose the one that gives clearance. Remember to match the other pulleys, particularly the water pump with the CS pulley.

    The other point of interference is the oil pan to bellcrank steering assembly. Again, Chevy has a wide variety of dimensions for the front of the oil pan. One could use a hammer but I just find the pan I need at a swap meet or parts supplier and move on.

    Of course the other issue is the drivers side exhaust manifold but that's been beat to death.

    The SBC was used in '65-'66 sedans,apparently without pulley or pan issues. The frame and bellcrank should be the same as the Avanti. Does anyone know how they accomplished this?

  15. Caveat emptor. Knowing the S/N of a vehicle for sale can be very important, as it can help to establish the history of the car. For example, Bob Johnstone's site ( http://www.studebaker-info.org/avantiRQBverc.html) has historical information about many Avantis, by serial number. There have been occasions where vehicles listed for sale as pristine, low mileage examples showed up in the historical files as being very rough at some time in their past. This information may or may not be known to the current owner/seller. This is kind of like a "CARFAX" for Avantis.

    That said, let me emphasise that I am by no means suggesting that there is anything of that nature involved with this particular Avanti. I am only pointing out that there are valid reasons for wanting to know the S/N. I, personally, would not bid on a vehicle without knowing the number.

    Conversely, let me pose the question to the group, "Is there any reason that you would not want to include the S/N or VIN when you list a vehicle on ebay?"

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