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Everything posted by Jim78

  1. Yes, that knob is identical to the one on my '78. There is a mate to it that is marked "AIR" that controls the fan speed.
  2. The metal line often has bends that are too tight to be done properly by a hand bender. Since this is basically a Chevy crate motor, these lines are readily available from many vendors. I have bought a number of engine parts like this from Corvette America.
  3. There is some information about its history on Bob Johnstone's site. https://www.studebaker-info.org/avantiRQBx2.html
  4. They aren't decals. They are plastic buttons about 3/32" thick, with an adhesive tape backing. I installed mine with silicone adhesive about 10 years ago, and they've held up really well. I do have a couple of spares, JIC. I recall getting them from Studebaker International at the York Swap meet many years ago. They had both "silver on black" and "black on silver" types. Personally, I prefer these.
  5. The logo buttons were also available with a silver background, which I prefer on my Magnum 500s. They fit perfectly in the recess of the center cone or spinner.
  6. I have what appears to be the original jack. But, the handle is missing. Since an Avanti needs to be jacked under the lower control arm or the axle, the screw of the jack is parallel to the car, rather than the typical "modern" jacks which are used at body jack points with the screw perpendicular to the vehicle. The newer jacks and replacement handles are short since the jack is out where it is accessible when in use. These short handles would require literally crawling under the Avanti during the jacking process. The jack that I used with my '63 Avanti was a Sears two-speed scissor that had an extendible handle that was short enough to stow properly, but extended long enough to reach the jack points without getting under the car. Best bet at this point looks to be to get out the torches and some steel rod and fabricate an extendable handle. My jack and spare have never been used in 44 years, but it would be my luck to get a flat now that I know that I don't have a jack handle. 😆
  7. Another spot to check is where the windshield wiper transmission goes through the cowl. A bad seal there will cause problems. Also, check for a crack in the fiberglass there, as that has been known to happen.
  8. I have looked at that route, and found the same issue of short handles, as "modern" scissor jacks are intended to go under the body jack points, with the screw perpendicular to the vehicle. Obviously, that doesn't work on an Avanti. It looks like my best bet may be to buy a length of 3/8 steel rod and bend my own handle.
  9. I recently discovered that the handle for the scissor jack in my '78 is missing. All of the replacement handles that I find on line are very short and would be pretty useless for jacking an Avanti. Is anyone aware of a source for a longer handle?
  10. This is about as good as it gets. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Diagrams/AEC/aec.html If you have specific issues, you might find some first-hand info here on the forum. Try the search function. The Studebaker 63-64vdiagram is sometimes helpful, but a number of changes were made by '74
  11. If I'm not mistaken, your '80 would already have the "quick steering" arms. As noted above, they were implemented to compensate for the forklift steering box. I don't know when that change was made, but my '78 has the forklift box. I think that the "quick steering" term came when owners of older Avantis with the original steering box realized how these arms would affect the steering response.
  12. A picture would be worth a thousand words.
  13. It sounds like you are not absolutely positive at this point that it is an Avanti II. If the car is in reality happens to be a Studebaker Avanti, the serial number would be found on a plate attached to the top of the right side frame rail, just in front of the firewall, below the heater blower motor.
  14. On my '78, the hose is connected to the fitting on the center of the top of the charcoal canister.
  15. You might find the tint shops less afraid of the rear window if you were to remove the rear shelf (not a big deal). The additional access through the trunk would make the installation a lot easier.
  16. My '78 doesn't have cruise control, so I'm guessing here. Typically, the cruise control is cancelled by application of the brake, via a second switch on the brake pedal. It almost sounds like your CC is somehow wired to the stoplight switch, and there is feedback when the turn signal is on. Does your pedal have a second switch, or a switch with two sets of contacts? Could it be possible that someone has the wires mixed up? FWIW, there is a sketch of the circuit on Bob Johnstone's page. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Diagrams/AEC/aec.html
  17. The temperature out of the evaporator will vary with the ambient temperature. During the charging process, we were seeing a temperature drop of about 30-35 degrees.
  18. I am running an S6 from Old Air Products with R-134a in my '78. Otherwise, the rest of the system is still factory stock, which was originally R12. That said, the system cools very well. I am no expert in A/C, but I am told that unlike the R12, the R134a is very sensitive to having the correct charge. Too little or too much is bad. Unfortunately, since it is a conversion, there is no sticker under the hood that would tell us the "proper" charge. The shop that charged mine has the latest equipment and a very competent tech. He took his time and charged the system in small increments letting it stabilize, checking the pressures and the temperature of the evaporator along the way. The whole process took about an hour, but the results were very good. Might it be possible that there may be a problem with your expansion valve? Again, I'm no expert, but wouldn't a restricted expansion valve cause the high pressure differential and poor cooling that you describe?
  19. Yep, that's a factory butcher job. My '78 is the same way. I suppose if one were looking for true "authenticity", he should hack his frame. 🙄 Others might see this as a good opportunity to lose the cat entirely and use straight dual pipes. The more environmentally conscious owner might consider two in-line aftermarket converters. https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=catalytic+converter+universal&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1
  20. As a quick and dirty alternative, I purchased a bluetooth adapter that simply plugs into the lighter socket. It converts the bluetooth signal to a chosen FM frequency on your existing radio. For less than $20 and no labor I can listen to my tunes from my phone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V27CYPT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  21. To avoid the issue with tightening mounting nuts under the dash, use "well-nuts" like those that hold the mirrors to the door skins. https://www.amazon.com/RUBBER-NUT-THREADED-INSERTS-THREAD-SIZE-030-227/dp/B015EVZ6IK/ref=sr_1_11?crid=35TS2RX1C1EYN&keywords=well+nuts+10-32&qid=1645367369&sprefix=well+nuts%2Caps%2C244&sr=8-11
  22. I suppose that another option is to remove the stacks of spacers between the body and frame that were used eliminate the rake in the first place.
  23. I would guess that the DEC 1989 might be a date when the compressor was rebuilt. I would run the system with the dye until it leaks down again. Then park the car in a very dark garage (or at night), with the engine off. Use a good ultraviolet light to check all over the system, including the condenser behind the grille. You should see a fluorescent residue where the freon is leaking.
  24. Kodjo, Recharge the system adding some compatible A/C fluorescent dye. Then leak check with a UV "black" light in a dark garage. Odds are that it is the compressor that's leaking, but better to be sure before you start spending for parts. Which model compressor is on your system?
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