brad

Never use 60 year old rubber unless you want to do it again in 6 months!!! Always use fresh new rubber .

I have lots of the parts from Jim in this engine build

I did one Avanti that someone installed a 62 Lark grille directly in front of the radiator. It bolted to the core support, and was basically flush right in front of the radiator and offered good protection.

The motor I took off has 4 wires, the "new" motor has 5. I'm cleaning up the old one and going to reinstall it.

I looked at the wiring on Bob Johnstones web site, and it says the red wire is high speed, and the yellow is low speed, and blue is park, white is ground. I only get any movement with power to the black wire. This is with the plug disconnected from the main harness. What is the deal?

The two larger pieces are the side console pieces if it did not have air conditioning. They give you both sets. The other two pieces are the lower kick panel that would be paired with vinyl if it was an earlier car (Studebaker) later Avantis were all carpet on the kick panels.

The round "can" is a radio noise suppresser condenser, or more commonly called a capacitor. Not any sort of voltage regulator. The other wiring seems correct. The white with red stripe is to the main terminal, the one with the black stripe goes to the smaller terminal, often a spade push on connector if original. Then the plain white wire is ground to the case. The voltage regulator is in front of the master cylinder on the drivers side inner fender.

So, there might be two different sizes of fuel pumps used on out cars. I have used this kit before with good results, however on a few ones I tried using this kit on, the top diphragm seal was the wrong size. Then and Now Yesteryear parts also has a good rebuild kit .

I have seen some strange stuff on Avantis. I've seen the salt and pepper carpet over the seat hump, with no vinyl riser, and of course the more familiar type that is cut out for the riser that is covered in matching seat vinyl.

The Will Carter is right from the horses mouth at the Carter factory that was in St. Louis. Can't get any clearer than that.

Compression ratios. The R2 needs more initial advance, and less total advance when the boost comes on.

Actually the 64 changes were on an EX prototype car made long before R4892. One of the last ones Gary Johnson is finishing up.

There is usually a flat washer gasket sold with the kits, as well as a grommet that goes around the stud on the lid. don't use the grommet, as it is meant for the Ford type with the vented dipstic cap and lid. use the flat washer so the dimples on the top are open under the washer for venting.

Do you just want the look of the original shifter? or are you wanting it for concourse judging? There are stock looking round handles that fit the Hurst "guts" available that look completely stock on the inside including shifter placement, and the round boot too. Dave Thiebault sells the handle.

Knock sensors are generally in the valley of a Vee engine up high in the water jacket closer to the combustion process. It should be away from exhaust noise. It is a piezeo-electric device that makes a tiny voltage that the computer interprets and in clost to real time reduces the timing. Just having a sensor that tells you it's knocking doesn't prevent damage.