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Posts posted by ernier

  1. Am I not seeing a nose on the '63? If so, the 64 is a no brainer. I haven't had a Mustang in a long time but I do have a 62 Meteor S-33smile.gif Once you are done assembling the '64 you can certainly recoup some costs on ebay with leftover parts. I can tell you that you should not sell windshield wiper arms and blades, power steering pieces, alternator, windshield wiper motor, power brake booster and radiator.

    I might have missed something but generally those items bring good money but in my opinion they are more valuable as cores or back-ups. Over the years I've accumulated all of the above just to have so I can keep my car together while I send out the broken part for a rebuild. Just me but if you frequent Avanti parts on ebay you won't see them too often and when you do they are expensive but even moreso through a vendor.


  2. 64 r2 4speed with some interesting history is the one to restore for sure and that 4 speed is worth its weight in gold so definitely swap it back in. No R2's came from the factory with air so you aren't missing anything that was available. All non-supercharged Avantis are R1's.

    There weren't a lot of options available on either car. P/s, twin traction, A/C (R1), tilt wheel ( later cars and very rare ), am or am fm radio, seat belts, windshield washers, tinted glass and a choice of interior style on the very early cars and of course 3 speed, automatic or 4 speed transmissions. A lot of the little stuff like seat bealts, windshield washers and probably the radios could be installed by the dealer. If either car has an Am/FM save it and have it refurbished if it doesn't work because they are worth stupid money.



    ErnieThat is basically what I was looking for.

    I figured the cars were basic as my dad never mentioned otherwise.

    The 63 is basic and I don't even know if it is a R1.

    The 64 is what it is, supercharged with all the bells and whistles I believe except air. Not sure as both are in pieces.

    I will have to get the original 4speed back into the chassis for the 64 because my dad wanted aotomatic, he took the 63 trans and switched it into the 64. Other then that all is normal to this point.

  3. Showcar status doesn't really change value, for Avantis anyway. It does mean you may have better fitting body panels and the original paint may have been color sanded and polished past the point the regular production cars would have been but it isn't a one-off or special say the way a COPO Camaro might be. Historically, it's another Avanti and show car status in this case adds more value for conversation than return on investment.

    The R2 adds value over an R1 and if it was a 4 speed that's another plus. If the 63 is an R1 automatic and the 64 is an R2 the '64 will return more of your restoration dollars but doubtful it will return all of your money so don't go crazy. It seems 64 R2 Avantis peak out in the upper $20K range to maybe $30K for the nicest 4 speed, late production, thick seat, car.

    Your 63 seems to be an early production car and it may be missing some of the details that later cars were equipped with like drip rail moldings, second cowl intake etc. If you plan to drive the car the '64 might be a little more comfy. Your 64 has most of the running changes except for the 'thick' seats but that's a bit of an illusion anyway as the thickenss came from a little more padding in the front and a filler panel in the rear giving the illusion of a thicker seat.


  4. You may be able to get to it if you support the engine/trans with a jack and remove the crossmember enabling you to lower the unit. You should remove the ignition shielding over the distributor and the distributor cap because as the engine and trans tilt downward the distributor may contact the bulkhead.


  5. As an experiment try disconnecting the vacuum advance and plugging the line. If it improves you may have a sticking breaker plate. The vacuum advance is pulling hard at that rpm range while cruising and when you let off the gas the plate should return as vacuum diminishes. Just a thought and easy to try.


    I recently had old distributor replaced with electronic pointless distributor on my R-1. Plugs and wires were also replaced. Engine runs beautifully EXCEPT I get backfiring (popping sound) between 2,500-3,000 rpms on decelleration/coasting from that rpm range. This was NOT present with old distributor. Any thoughts on what is wrong?

  6. The car has definitely been repainted that color is not a Stude color. If you look closely at the full front shot you can see what looks like a mis-alignment on the driver's side front fender at the top which I believe is poor bonding. It's missing the hood ornament also.

    The current owner might not know the car was altered and painted but it obviously was. It doesn't seem to be a bad car for the price but I would definitely want to look at it in person to check the quality of the body work and paint.

    However, considering there are R1's popping up frequently and the square headlight alteration does not add any value, in fact it probably detracts, paying a little more for a car that isn't altered would be money well spent. IMHO.


  7. IIf there's any way you can fo the job with the windshield out of the car, do it. It makes things so much easier.

    ErnieR 64R2 88 Coupe

    I finally got a replacement dash for my 1963. I think it's from Just Dashes...

    Anyone have any tips or advice for replacing the pad and gauges?

    I have a few articles out of past Avanti magazines, but anyone know more?

    I really don't want to mess it up!

  8. If there's a nut on the axle it's a tapered axle. The drum and hub come off as a unit and need a puller that bolts to the drum via the studs and centers on the axle. Then you wail away on it it with a BFH. There's a point in production where the axles were flanged and the drum just slips off. Just pop a hubcap and you'll know right away what you have.


  9. Beautiul car!

    They are very rare and probably at the higher end of the value scale as far as Avanti ll's go. They used all the existing Stude stuff except for the engine so they have appeal in the "has to be a Stude" community also.

    If you don't have a shop manual for a Stude, I would get one. The front brakes have a couple of quirky things about them. There will be shims that look like washers that should be re-positioned as they came off. The caliper needs to be shimmed so it's centered over the rotor.

    The calipers themselves need to be relatively pit free to seal properly. Also note the orientation of the steel tubes that connect the two halves. Put them on wrong and they rub against the wheel.

    If the rear axle on your car is the tapered type you'l need a puller to get the drum off.

    I visit the Fairlane forums once in awhile...I have a '62 Meteor S-33.


    I did go to the web site, it was useful, now to get it apart...

  10. I've been repairing the inoperative power windows on the '88 I bought and before I removed the driver's door panel I knew there was a problem with the screw holes because the bottom corner was flopping around and would catch itself on the jam everytime I opened the door. Once I got a look at the door itself I could see that as the holes enlarged new ones would be made. There were 3 in the lower rear corner.

    I was trying to figure out a way to get a retaining clip in there and while I was rumaging through my stash of assorted clips and speed nuts I found these u nuts. I think they came with something like a speaker grille but I don't remember. Any U or J clip would work you just need to get clips for thick panels.


    Then I grabbed the Dremel tool that I use so little that I forget I even have it and attached a small pointed tip rasp. Using the width of the clip as a guide as where to cut I scribed a line

    and cut a slot.



    You need to cut wide enough to slip the clip in and turn it in. If you are using a beefier U or J clip you may need an even wider slot.


    Once it's in you have a permanent threaded hole.


  11. It's just a hole up there with special clips that hold the lamp from behind, top and bottom. The hole is not much smaller than the assembly so be careful cutting it. It was a pain getting them in there so I'm not going to take them out for pictures but if you need some measurements or a picture from behind let me know.

    Direct email is r2r5388@yahoo.com


  12. For starters here's the Craigslist ad...


    I've been speaking to this gentleman and have seen some good descriptive pictures.

    Good news...

    350 CID with a rebuilt TH 400, working R134 A/C, NO sunroof, interior needs carpet but seats, headliner, dash and door panels are very nice vinyl.

    Tires look good and the car is unmolested right down to intact "cow-catcher" and fog lamps.

    Bad news...

    Needs bumpers to be re-chromed, body is not damaged but paint is trash and needs to be stripped. No chance for a 'lark-shine' application on this car.

    The under-body supports are not rusted through but look like they may be soft in a couple of spots. This can only be confirmed in person because the visible rust may be surface only but I have my doubts. The only frame rust that I can see of any concern is the lower plate behind the left side wheel arch. The wheels arches look solid.

    I believe the seller is open to offers. He's the second owner and is adamant that the 58,000 miles is original. I believe this is a drive while restore Avanti. The hog troughs could probably be treated from inside and reinforced from the outside and might not ever have to be replaced. The lower frame plate is very accessible and looks like a fairly easy remove and replace by any welding shop.


  13. I haven't done it myself but others have been able to remove the engine and trans as a unit. My experience with other projects is that removing the two as a unit is much easier than separating the two.

    Just make sure you get the nose high enough when you actually start the pull.


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