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Posts posted by ernier

  1. The 1557582 heads are used on a variety of Studebaker applications. 1961-1964 trucks, 63V, 64V, and R2

    Head Casting by Application

    A dished piston should be enough, I ran my R2 with R1 heads, dished pistons and boost of 6 lbs with no problems. I wouldn't buy any pistons untill your block is miced up. You may need an oversize piston after the bores are cleaned up.


  2. How about the positioning of the rear mounts? When you say right side I assume you mean looking from the front of the car ( typically passenger is right and driver is left ) I don't have a car to refer to but were there choices on positioning the rear mounts? Sounds to me as if the front of the engine is OK but the rear is too high and over to far to the left ( driver's side ).

    Or,have you gone with a different trans like a GM overdive in which case you need to push the trans tailshaft to the right and bolt it up that way so you have clearanceup front.


  3. That's not a test of the alternator.

    Since you would probably need to hand your alternator in as a core why not just take it off and have the parts store test it and replace it if necessary.

    Better yet put a volt meter on the battery with the car off and then compare numbers with the car running. Battery with car off should be over 13 V. A proper charging sysytem will add about 1.5V to battery voltage. So if you have a weak battery say just 12 volts when the car is running you should see around 13.5V.


  4. There are no hog trough issues with the Monte Frame. 'G' bodies with that frame had rust issues on the rear rails and at the spots where the body mounts meet the frame.

    When I had my 88 I had the opportunity to compare it to the '64 and there are changes to the body to adapt it to the frame and re-installing the chrome bumpers would be a real challenge.

    It would be much easier to replace the hog troughs than to adapt the Stude body to the Monte frame.


  5. It's probably the cable or cable related. It's rare that the head just quits, they may read wrong but most of the time they move.

    Check at the trans first because that'sthe easiest. The cable usually breaks at the tips and it makes it hard to recognize that the cable is damaged.


  6. 3-5 lbs would be normal for a stock supercharger. If John Erb did the blower I definitely would be checking everything else first. The gasket is a normal one at the carb top but I couldn't get a good seal with the paper ones so I O ringed the carb hat.

    Also, the PCV valve is also a one way check valve. If it isn't sealing under boost you could be losing intake boost to the crankcase.

    Vaccum/boost gage should be connected right to the intake manifold at the "T" on the left side where the brake booster hooks up. Any where else may give false or low readings.


  7. Before you swap pulleys check the hoses and carb hat to carb for leaks. Also, change the fluid in the blower and put in Type F. You won't see max boost until close to the red line and if your tach isn't working you don't know at what RPM your checking boost. Slipping belts aren't always obvious but will limit blower output and cause power and boost to drop off substantially at high RPM. They should be a matched set and be wider than most common fan belts. If the belts are down in the pulley rather than flush or slightly higher than the edge of the pulley they are too narrow and are probably slipping a little.

    Also, are you sure the tach is off or are you not achieving more than 3200 RPM? An Avanti with 3.73 will sound like it's wound up as tight as can be long before it peaks.

    When you carnyou want to check the timing's advance with a light. The distributors are known for worn advance weight attaching holes and sticking breaker plates the former wreaking havoc with centrifugal advance and the latter with vacuum advance.

    You don't have to worry about posting questions on this forum, nothing but freindly help here. We all learn with every question posted and answered so don't hesitate to ask anything.


  8. Absolutely 100% agree.

    Most of the world couldn't tell a II from a Stude if they were standing next to both of them and the starting platform is much easier to modify for performance. Lower initial cost, A/C etc. In retrospect it's where I should have started. When I bought mine in '95 I was new to Avanti also but I didn't have a computer to seek out opinions.



    Take this with a grain of salt...just my opinion and that won't even get you a cup of coffee. If you want to hot rod an Avanti...I believe an Avanti II is a better candidate. They generally cost less to buy than an equivalent Studebaker version...Avanti II's were considered better cars when new but even the newest is old by now and the free market rules that Studebakers are worth more. While the Studebaker engine is a fine engine, the small block Chevy is far, far easier to hot rod and crate engines of any number of power levels are available to drop in if you want. If you want the panache of a different engine than a ubiquitous small block Chevy, have at it.

    Avanti II's were all custom cars, more or less, than a production car, so you can change whatever you like as there was no real factory standard anyway. The value won't be materially affected like it might with a Studebaker. If you're concerned about later resale value, a customized Studebaker Avanti will turn many potential buyers away.

    LIke I said...take what I said with a grain of salt...it's your wants and desires that are important.

  9. Very nice car you have, in fact that's what I want to end up with; but I want to do it myself as a winter project, thanks for reply. I'm new to the Avanti world and if you hear of a basket case please let me know. Ken, Deltaville, Va

    As coined by John Poulos, "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Avanti"

    My "winter project" took more than a decade and probably over $50,000. Interior alone is $3500, uninstalled and doesn't include dash or headliner. Flanged axles $1000+, 4 wheel discs $1600 not including master, TCI trans and attaching parts $2500 etc, etc.

    If you can paint the car your $10K ahead. I could go on and on.

    Buy the best car you can, not a sales pitch on mine, just common advice in the Avanti world. These aren't Mustangs or Camaros and some get sacrificed because they are worth more in pieces than all together.

    I'm sure others here will concur. Be careful.


  10. http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/cto/2279943569.html How about one that's not a basket case? My Car. I'm in Dobson NC right outside of Mt Airy. I just sold an 88 and wouldn't mind an '89.


    Last Fall I set out to find either a 63 or 64 , or an 87 or newer to restore and perhaps to hot rod. Ended up with an 89 that needed nothing. Would still like to find a basket case 63 or 64 as a winter project. Must be automatic and within a reasonable distance of Richmond Va. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  11. Fluid could ruin a booster. What do you mean by 1/4 pedal? Is it hard and high or low and close to the floor.

    Did you bleed the Master Cylinder itself before bleeding the brakes?


    I am having a problem with the brakes on my R1. The master cylinder leaked fluid out from the rear of the cylinder. I rebuilt the master cylinder and bled the brakes, but now only have about one quarter of brake pedal, and no power assist. Is it possible that fluid leaked back into the booster and caused it to fail?, or could it just be a fluke that it failed the same time as the master cylinder?. Prior to the cylinder leaking, the booster worked fine. Any ideas???

  12. If you have a Stude accessory harness it should have connectors already in place. I stuck my head under my dash but couldn't see everything. It's been 15 years since I installed my washers but if memory serves what you need to do is remove connectors from the switch and plug them into the harness and then plug the the harness into the switch. The wire colors should match up as will the connectors.

    What you will be doing is plugging the main harness wires into the washer harness and then the washer harness into the switch.

    I tried taking pictures for you but after looking at them they will be no help at all.


  13. Here's some pictures of a leftover piece. You will need to cut some relief slits so the straight piece will conform to the curves of the Avanti door. You won't have to bend it much and once you cut the slits it will fit the door perfectly.



  14. For my '88, I bought a length of universal GM stainless with rubber bonded to it and cut it to length. It would rquire some drilling and bending but the end result was factory looking. The whiskers won't keep the water out so I wouldn't recommend them. Go to Restoration Specialties Website they have full size pictures and measurements. I don't recall what I bought and I sold the '88 but there's not that many choices for GM late 80's cars.


    I need the outer window seal for an 89 Avanti. SI has them thru 1983, but not 89. Is the 89 door that different from the 83? Also who might have them, if not SI, and has anyone substituted "cat wiskers", for the rubber seal that is supposed to the used? Ken, Deltaville, Va.

  15. If your 89 is like an 88 the light switches can be replaced by universal style available at most any parts store. The console lides are GM "G" body and the hinge was just a crease in the plastic. The can be purchased on ebay and the lid itself is removable so it can be re-installed on the new plastic part. Or you can buy a short piano hinge and fix it forever.


    looking for courtesy light switch, and hinge for the console in between the front seats, for 89 model. Who has this kind of stuff, and what manuals would be good to have for this model. i'm new to avanti ? Ken

  16. That's not an 8 3/4 Mopar. I'm not sure what it is. A couple of pictures straight on from the back and one from the front and I may be able to identify it. First thought is that it's a GM corporate 10 bolt.

    I see that spacers were added to lower the rear and if you feel you don't have enough clearance that could be your problem. Depending on the offset of the wheel and the width of the tire it doesn't take much to cause the tire to stick out from the body. After all it's still a body and frame designed to run skinny bias ply tires.

    As far as strength the Dana 44 is plenty strong. The GM 10 bolt if it's an 8.5 ring gear is strong enough for perfromance cars that aren't raced with slicks.

    From the looks of the rear spring mounting I would think you have a lot of flex going on back there and maybe even a pinion angle issue. This is a typical mounting. Look how thin the spring insulator is.



  17. Is the air box one piece?

    Once the hoses are out of the way look to see if it's 2 pieces. One piece sliiding into the other is common. I would think that installation in one peice would be difficult. It could be riveted together or screwed. In fact, from what I've seen of the workmanship on these cars I wouldn't be shocked to see things riveted together that other manufacturers would design with screws or nuts and bolts. I don't think longevity or ease of service was ever a goal when these cars were built.

    I bet you could touch the core with the air hoses off. There could also be screws or studs in the engine compartment that hold the air box.


  18. It has to be in the air box. It almost looks like they built the car around the heater box. Anyway, you wouldn't be able to see the core until you took out the air box. Not that I've done the job on this year Avanti but they are always enclosed never just hanging out for the world to see. The tubes aren't usually more than a few inches long so you know it's on the other side of the firewall from where the hoses go in and I'm pretty sure it's fastened inside the box so you would need to disconnect hoses to pull out the assembly.


  19. Tnx - I appreciate the input. Perhaps I'll keep a Studebaker wheel for the spare? What tires seem to work?

    It's not the wheel that creates the height issue as much as the modern radial.

    I like p215/75 for a tire it matches the height of the original 6.70's and fills the wheel wells nicely. A matter of personal preference as some use p205's to p225's.


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