ernier
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Posts posted by ernier
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I have to think it's a problem in the booster. But a simple experiment would be to replace the check valve and to check or replace the hose and see what happens. The hose must be booster hose, gas hose will collapse.
Your pedal is hard because you have no vacuum built up in the booster.
More than likely you need to replace or rebuild the booster.
ErnieR
When I first start my '78 Avanti II, and depress the brake pedal,I hear a hissing like air escaping. The pedal won't go down very far and brakes are not grippy at all, like there's no power assist. Then after it's warmed up and touch brake pedal, no hissing and brakes work fine.
Any suggestions on what's up?
Thanks,
Tim
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I haven't, but if it comes off like the center console there are spring clips that allow the wood to be pried off. I would suggest that you remove the driver's seat, and lower the steering column so you can get a look up and behind to see if the are any spots that are screwed or bolted.
I would also suggest buying a set of radio installer's pry bars. They are plastic and come in different styles for pulling and prying. It's best to try and locate the clips and pry right at the clip.
The radio should come out from the front and removing it may make pulling the fascia easier.
ErnieR
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Go to a website like Photobucket or Flickr, I use Photobucket and create a free online account. Upload your pictures to the photobucket website after logging in. Go to the picture you would like to post of the forum and copy the IMG code. Go back to your Forum and create a forum posting and cut n paste the IMG code into your forum post.
Here's an example the IMG code has the following before and after the web address ['IMG]web address['/IMG]
Here's a picture using a IMG code from my photobucket website ...
The paint looks great but I think you should go with bigger wheels
ErnieR
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I would definitely consider one of the high torque mini's over a rebuilt. IMHO, it's getting to a point where the starters for "our" cars are going through the rebuild cylce a few times since they were new. Also, rebuilt is a rather poor term for most of them. New brushes, a quick check of the armature, maybe a new or rebuilt solenoid, some bead blasting and paint and off to the parts store. Lots of times the starters are checked and just cleaned up because the diagnosis that deemed the starter defective was incorrect in the first place and all you get is a clean and paint. Also, the MINI will allow more air to circulate sround the starter and cool it if it is a heat problem. There's more room for the insualtion too if you decide on a little more protection.
ErnieR
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A heat soaked starter can cause the problems you are experiencing, as can bad cables, weak battery, bad or poor connection at the battery or a bad starter. If all those things are up to snuff you shouldn't have to insulate the starter. Normally, that's necessary on an engine with tube headers. Also, have you changed the timing settings on your car? Too much initial advance can cause the condition you describe also.
ErnieR
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I just did the heater hoses on mine and pray I don't ever have to do that job.
I have seen instances where a hose is leaking and spraying coolant backwards into the heater core cavity causing the same symptoms as a leaking core. I had to re-tighten the clamps on my hoses a couple of times. They leaked out not in but I have had it happen. Just something to check before you tear into the dash.
While I don't have any tips on doing the job I think if you document the task when you do it you will be the first to give us 87-89 owners a guide to do the job.
ErnieR
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The front and rear clips are cut off at the bottom. With the bumper covers off there is nothing there. The parking lights are not mounted in the fenders but in the bumpers. You would need to add a lower valance, modify the face with slots for the bumper braces to pass through, and probably some things that don't come to mind right now.
Let me know if you need pictures of my 88 from underneath.
ErnieR
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Here's some pictures of a NOS latch I bought to adapt to the 64. Looks like you have all the pieces.
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On my 88 the trunk barely moves when it's released. You might try adjusting the latch downwards so there's a little more compression on the seal because I think that's all the spring there is pushing the lid up.
ErnieR
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Get one out and post a picture of it. I don't know if 78 and my 88 are the same. Also check Bob Johnstone's site for a crossover.
ErnieR
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Easy fix, I figured it out yesterday. Once my motor was free to move my window was doing the same thing. I put a test light to the connection and it wouldn't do it. So I figured the switch needed a ground. Anyway, run a ground wire to the 3rd terminal from the left as you are looking down at the left side of the switch. Solved the problem and the lights in the switch are brighter.
ErnieR
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Check that the breaker plate isn't sticking. The vacuum advance changes the timing by moving the breaker plate. If the plate is not free to return to its original position or if you set the timing while the breaker plate was stuck it will change everytime you drive the car, literally. Advance weights sticking or a rotor loose on the shaft could also give you erratic readings.
Gunslinger is right, start at the distributor it's in there somewhere.
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When I bought the 88 beater Avanti neither of the power windows worked. I replaced the motor on the driver's side and the gear on the passenger. In the 10 months I've had the car I've had to re-fix the driver's window multiple times. It would work for awhile then not. I cured some switch issues with BMW switches and relays and it worked for awhile.When it stopped working it would fail in the up position. One time I thought the motor had gotten soaked in a bad rainstorm so I took it apart let the thing dry out and tested the motor. Worked fine so I replaced the outer window seal stuck it all back together and things were fine...for awhile.I tried loosening all the bolts to see if the regulator was binding, peaked inside the door with my borescope for interference. I even welded a tab on the end of the gear in case it was going too far and locking at the end of its travel.Even though the motor would bench test fine every time it was detached from the regulator it would still lock in the up position once assembled. I was finally able to duplicate the porblem with the regulator out of the door and when it would lock a tap with a hammer and it would relase and go down. No matter how I studied the regulator I could not see anything that would cause the bind. I finally relented and bought another motor. Installed it and things seem to be working fine.I just wasn't comfortable with the repair because I couldn't believe the motor was the culprit even though the new one seems to be working fine. I started looking at the old motor thinking I could see something that would explain the problem and lo and behold...
I pulled the gears out a little to make it easier to see that the shaft is not perpendicular to the base on the motor to the left. I feel better now.ErnieR -
You probably just need to adjust the lifters the oil shouldn't make a difference unless it hasn't been changed in a very long time.
The change couldn't hurt and I don't think the viscosity would make that much difference in the cold.
ErnieR
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Oil discussions have gone on for pages on the SDC forum. I have been using 15w-40 Rotella for a few years now. It's a diesel spec and has additives that are supposed to be better for flat tappet camshaft engines.
Some online research will give you tons of opinions but generally it seems that newer formulations of 10w-30 aren't the best for older engines.
ErnieR
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Mechanical and you will hear them a little even if they are adjusted perfectly.
ErnieR
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There's a rubber boot that acts as a seal. Contact one of the vendors sould be an easy fix.
ErnieR
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If it doesn't twist off, like I think it should, take a look at the center emblem and see if it looks like it prys out, there might be a screw under there.
ErnieR
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I put Ford Crown Vic wheels on mine. Readily available in the junkyard. You just need to replace your 3/4 hex lugnuts with 13/16 hex.
Made a big difference in ride and handling, BTW.
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Of all the things to lose...
They pop up on ebay once in awhile as do the reproductions.
Will he be buying them for you? They're not mine and I'm p...d off that someone would be so careless.
ErnieR
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I gues that's possible but the general consensus has been that Stude heads aren't particularly prone to valve seat issues. I would also think that a cracked seat would bring along with it a burned exhaust valve and a subsequent miss.
Again, my Stude experience is limited only to my own R2 but I would certainly make sure of the advance curve and condition of advance mechanism in the distributor before I pull the heads.
IMHO.
ErnieR
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Thanks, Ernie. 2 3/4 is what fits the SN2000's outlet, so that's perfect.
Apart from the sealing and vventing, the marine carb probably is jetted a bit richer than the auto version. that would be about it for differences. If I do decide to try this, I'll certainly take advantage of your experience.
From Edelbrock:
For use in marine applications, these Edelbrock carbs comply with U.S. Coast Guard safety standards. Cast surfaces are iridited with Teflon-coated shafts and pump arm for maximum protection. Other features include modified bowl venting, specially designed throttle shafts, accelerator pump seal, 3/8" inverted flare fuel inlet fitting, tube in airhorn for fuel pump vent, 5-1/8" flame arrestor flange, universal throttle lever and revised secondaries for improved transient performance. Note: These carbs have no vacuum ports and are not for auto use. Use our Carb Stud Kits #8008 or #8024 if needed, see page 41.Marine Carburetors For use in marine applications, these Edelbrock carbs comply with U.S. Coast Guard safety standards. Cast surfaces are iridited with Teflon-coated shafts and pump arm for maximum protection. Other features include modified bowl venting, specially designed throttle shafts, accelerator pump seal, 3/8" inverted flare fuel inlet fitting, tube in airhorn for fuel pump vent, 5-1/8" flame arrestor flange, universal throttle lever and revised secondaries for improved transient performance. Note: These carbs have no vacuum ports and are not for auto use.
Besides the extra cost. The Auto Edelbrock I've been using for years has exibited no sealing issues at all and I've had my foot into it plenty of times.
ErnieR
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Check your Pertronix instructions...I think they do not use any resistor at all.
ErnieR
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I think the main thing about a Pertronix coil is taht it has no internal resistor so there's a full 12 volts.
Coils will normally get hot, at least as hot as the ambient engine compartment temps.
The coils are usually marked 'external resistor' or 'internal resistor'. Check your Napa unit.
ErnieR
'64 R2 wider wheel
in 1963-64 Avanti
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I put Ford Crown Vic wheels on mine. Readily available in the junkyard. You just need to replace your 3/4 hex lugnuts with 13/16 hex.
Made a big difference in ride and handling, BTW.
The wider wheel and tire will sit higher in the trunk. Compact spares from modern iron work well if you want a flat trunk floor.
ErnieR