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ernier

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Posts posted by ernier

  1. If your VIN is lower than 4892 it's a salt and pepper and after is all black.

    ErnieR

    The car has all black carpet and it very well could be original.

    The interior is balck seats and lower sidewalls, fawn dash & upper sidewalls.

    Is there a way to decode the build sheet for carpet color?

    Did all Avantis come with S & P carpets?

  2. I got my black from Phanthom years ago and was very satisfied. I would suggest, though, if your car was originally a red and black combo I would get that over black. You might decide to continue the your restoration and it would be ashamed to have to do the job a second time to install the original style carpet.

    ErnieR

    While my car is apart for painting, I was thinking about going the extra step and replace the carpeting...(isn't that the way it always goes...might as well do this...and that..next thuing you know the restoration tab looks like the Pentagon R&D budget..:) ).

    The usual suspects Historic, Phantom, S-! sell carpet sets.

    Any one have personal experience or recommendations? I just need black

    (or black & red "salt & pepper"...which I think is NLA..which is really OK with me).

  3. Type F trans fluid is recommended. Sometimes hard to find. A guy that rebuilt mine years ago used B&M Trick Shift and I continued to use it.

    ErnieR

    I recently purchased a 64 R2 (R5470), where do I purchase the proper fluid for the Paxton Supercharger?

    And, this car is well documented, first owner added hood scoop, front grill and lots of bumper-etts. Yes, you are correct, all this stuff will come off prior to stripping, removing all glass and painting. Just a few mechanical issues to solve first.

    thanks, Mark

  4. Now that's a friend!!

    I've had almost every nut and bolt off my car in the 13 years I've had it so when you start getting into don't hesitate to contact me. Welcome to the fold.

    ErnieR

    Our friend will be paying the fee, since it's his car, but he will be signing the title over to me. So it's no so bad.
  5. Personally, it doesn't sound like an attractive deal. $6,000 with glass plus $800 with brakes ( Turner Fronts, add another $800 for the rear discs ) and then whatever else. Sorting out a Chevy Engined Stude can be a chore and I wouldn't be surprised if the brakes weren't the only reason it was parked. Running all Stude R1's aren't selling for much more than what you would be starting out with.

    I don't mean to be discouraging but I would think twice before jumping at this deal.

    ErnieR

    Thank you for the info Gunslinger, the price of the car is right, free, but our friend has to pay the $5000 storage fee, but I get free towing out of it. On the rear Glass Safelite says they have it on line for about $1000, autumm discount $900, but that is online and will probably have to order it ans wait for it to come in.
  6. I agree on the crate motor, lots of choices and price ranges. The Cadillac sounds sexy but has little or no benefit over a Chevy engine and instead of being back on the road in a couple of weekends you could end up with a never ending project.

    A couple of thoughts on transmissions though...if your 81 is a 3 speed but with a high ( numerically low ) rear gear you might consider just leaving the existing trans in there and upgrading with a shift kit and modified governor. If you must go overdrive after having experienced both the 700 (formerly in my 64 ) and the 200, presently in my 64 I vote for the 200. If you have a TH 350 in there now the driveshaft length is the same you would just need to fab a mount further back on the frame to mount the 200. TV Cable set up on either of those transmissions is a BIG issue and your current carburetor may not work with either trans. The gear spacing on the 200 is better and while the 1st gear grunt on the 700 is fun it doesn't last very long. I have had lots of issues with my overdrive conversions and if I had an Avanti II with a rear gear 3.36 or below I would beef the current 3 speed and drive.

    ErnieR

    hello, thanks for admitting me to the forum group.

    i've been an avanti owner for over 10 years now.

    my 1981 Avanti II, factory black, factory loaded, very nice condition, all stock.... but a tired, sluggish, 305... what would you do?

    if it was a stock 327 like earlier/later years, i'd just rebuild it... but can't see do'n that to a 305

    my father offered me a nice 500ci Cadillac engine with everything.....

    know anyone that has fit one in an Avanti II?

    would any major modifications have to be done?

    read hear that a 700-R4 should be no problem (stuck one in my conestoga a while back with a fresh stude 289)

    thanks! glad to find AOAI!

  7. you need to get under the car and get a vise grip on the nut. It is is a captured nut that gets riveted to the fiberglass and it's accessible from underneath.

    ErnieR

    Hi, Gang. I fear I've encountered a problem common to our Avantis. My 1963 driver's seat assembly (seat and track) front mounting bolts will not back out. It appears some kind of captured nut inside the fiberglass floor has broken loose on both of these front mounting bolts, so the bolts just spin. Is there any advice, a procedure, or a trick a member can share with me for getting these bolts out?

    I already have the front seat mounting repair "kit" from Classic Enterprises on hand. However, I've got to get these mounting bolts out first! Thanks for any help. John in Wisconsin

  8. Years ago when I bought my first set of radials for my 64 I used the specs out of various tire catalogs and found that while the P195 was a cross reference it was also a shorter tire. The closest to the 6.70 in diameter was the p215/75R. A 70 series would be shorter and wider.

    avnatiglamour006.jpg

    They fill the wheel wells nicely and look "right" IMHO.

    I will say that I don't think you should use the original rims with any radial. They are too narrow and pinch the tire. What happens is that the sidewall won't flex as it should and the contact patch isn't as wide as it should be. Once I replaced my original wheels with Ford rims the car rode nicer and handled better. My hubcaps finally stayed put also.

    Any recommendations for tire size.

    I want to use the original rims.

    205?

    215?

    When I boughtthe car it had vintage 195 "Tiger Paws"

    I will not be racing and I don't want low profile.

    Basically I want a modern radial that looks right on the car (and that I can get with narrow whitewalls...)

  9. Is there a big nut and cotter pin or just a flat hub?

    If there's no nut the brakes could be keeping the drum on. Brake fluid retains moisture and things swell and the brakes self apply also if the emergency brake was on the cables could be rusted, even the drum itself can get rusted on to the axle.

    If you have a big nut then you need a drum and hub puller to pop it off.

    ErnieR

    Anyone know the type of rear axle Avanti motors put in the Avanti in 1973? I am going to go throught the brakes and the left rear brake drum is seized up after sitting for several years. I don't want to damage anything in freeing up the drum. If it helps any, the rear drums are not finned. I thought the rear drums on all Avantis were finned for heat dissipation.

    Thanks!

    Bill

  10. It probably is a good idea to pull the tank, however, do you have the glass bowl filter or the inline can type? I ask because gas tank sediment should be clogging the filter not the carb. BUT, if the filter is deteriorating...

    Ernie R

    1964 Avanti R2, just had the carburetor professionally rebuilt. Runs great except full acceleration wants to die. Seems to be getting some type of fine sediment in the carb. Anybody think I should pull the gas tank and have it cleaned and gone through? Any other ideas. First post. Thanks.
  11. There may be a fusible link wire burned. I can't tell you exactly where to look but follow any wire from the battery. The fat one goes right to the solenoid and there maybe a smaller wire from the positive terminal. The links frequently go from one of the terminals on the solenoid up to the fuse box. They look the same as normal wires but have what looks like a connector on the wire. The links are only a part of wire because they can't be too long to work effectively.

    The other thing to check is the terminal itself.

    ErnieR

    (Also posted on the Kelly Avanti Board)

    1987 Kelly Coupe. Before tear the car apart, I thought I'd see if someone recognizes this problem. I have an '87 Coupe with the 305. The I've owned the car for 16 years and was the first to title it. It had 3,000 miles on it in 1992 and now has 22,000. I typically start it every week or so and drive it once a month. I missed starting it for about 6 weeks and jumped it off about three weeks ago (It has the same mysterious battery drain I've seen elsewhere on the forum and even dies when the battery disconnect switch is off!). I went to jump it yesterday and after getting the cables hooked up I got in the Avanti and turned the key and got absolutely nothing. No lights...no fuel pump activation...just dead. The battery was out of date so I put a new one in and still nothing. Checked the "starter" fuse (that fuse box is fun...) and it is ok. Also looked under the dash and can't see any obvious disconnected wires.

    Is there a starter relay that I can check or any other fuse/breaker that I don't know about?

    I had a GM Chiltons book but apparently have misplaced it. I'll head for the library and copy the wiring diagram for an 86/87 Monte Carlo. But I really would appreciate any advice as to how to proceed in tracing the power path. I assume I should follow the red battrery lead off under the firewall???

    You can also email me directly at lftrn97@comcast.net.

    Thanks for your help.

    Jim Murphy

  12. I can tell you that using the right materials and prepped properly it will stay nice for a long time. I'm 9 years and counting with a painted dash pad and no signs of deterioration.

    Are you talking about the padded part of the dash or the gauge overlay? If the gauge overlay, Studebaker International carries an aerosol can of paint the proper color. If you mean the padded dash, that can be matched up by a good auto paint supply shop. They can computer match it and they add a flex agent into the mix.
  13. I don't know where you would put the "X" on the Avanti. You would have to run the pipes under the frame and I can tell you that they will scrape the ground over whoop de doos. I know because I had to run my front pipes to the mufflers below the frame to clear the 700 R4 trans and I scrape frequently.

    I did an "X" configuration on a 69 GP that I had and the exhuast note changed quite a bit. It smoothes out the sound so a lot of the familiar rumble is gone and I had to go to a different muffler because it created an unbearable drone at cruising RPM which wasn't there with two separate pipes. I did notice an improvement in 1/4 times but the exhaust that was replaced was small and cobbled up. The new sysytem was 2.5 all mandrel bends so who knows if the "X" did anything.

    ErnieR

    Yeah, I think having one fabricated would at least double, if not triple the price of the SS system in the Avanti Mag, and since I haven't won the Powerball jackpot (yet) I'll just settle for what's available. Thanks,

    Charlie

  14. An Avanti running between 180-200 is a cool running Avanti. I wouldn't touch a thing!

    BTW, I often wonder if the placement of the temperature sending switch is the best for accurate temp readings. It's in the back of the head near an exhaust port. I though about putting one where the bleed valve is just to make a comparison.

    ErnieR

    I purchased my 1964 Avanti in Dec 2007. It has not over heated but runs hot most of the time. 180 to 200 on the gage. I know some Avant's have added elect fans n front of radiator. Is there a good P/N for one of these? What about a scoop of some type? Is there a new better type of core for radiator? ANY info will be helpful.

    Thanks - JOE

  15. Actually, the crossover is a passage below the carburetor inside the intake manifold. The heat riser directs exhaust through the inkake to warm the air so the mixture atomizes better in when its cold out. Check the operation of the heat riser, right side exhaust manifold between the manifold and headpipe, you should see the valve move when you rev the engine. If it doesn't then too much heat is being directed into the intake manifold and boiling the fuel in the carb.

    Blocking the crossovers stops the exhuast from entering the intake and keeps the carb a lot cooler. Before I did it the car would stall, stumble and belch black smoke when I would pull away from a light in warm, not even hot temps. What happens is fuel is evaporating from the bowls of the carb and vapors are being pulled into the engine with the outside air creating an overly rich mixture.

    Blocking them requires removing the intake manifold and installing gaskets that do not have an opening for the exhuast to enter the intake. I welded metal into my intake and used the special gaskets but that might be overkill. I have run my car in some very cold temps ( I don't even have a choke plate in my carb ) and really never had an issue. I think the supercharger warms the air enough to allow cold weather driving without a crossover.

    BTW, changing the intake gaskets is easy. The only precaution is to make sure you don't over-tighten the bolts. The hold down clamps can be weak and then they start to split and not do their job. In fact if you went that route I would get gaskets and clamps and replace both.

    The Pertronix unit is a replacement for the points and condensor. Very reliable and simple to install. I noticed right away that my car started more easily and idles smoother after installing the Pertronix unit. I mention it because it is not effected by heat and never needs any adjustment.

    One simple thing I would mention is the ratio of coolant to water. Water cools better than anti freeze and if you have a mixture that is more than 50-50 the wrong way you might be losing a little efficiency.

    Ernie

    Ernie,

    Thanks for your thoughts. I agree that 220 is not outrageous, but this car never got above 200 before that really prolonged idle - so I was concerned that something might be going on. The fan stops right away when the engine is off. I increased the idle speed as you suggested (it was actually 3-400rpms before I adjusted it this morning) to about 6-700 rpm, and it seems to like that. I am intrigued by your blocking the cross over exhaust. I do have a "silent muffler"option (quiet tonemufflers and resonators), so I assume I have a cross over as shown in the parts catalog, but I never noticed. What is it's purpose, when there apparently isn't one in the standard glass pack system? I presume I'd need to take it to a muffler shop to accomplish this. Also, what is a Pertronix system?

    Again, thanks for your comments and suggestions.

    Dennis 63 R2 R3821

    PS I'd include a picture (it's the same color as yours) if I could figure out how!

  16. Something like a new exhaust is a toss up on doing it yourself or having it done. It all depends on whether or not you can get the manifold bolts or nuts off without breaking them. After that a Sawzall makes quick work of the old system and putting all new pipes on is pretty easy. The toss up part? Because it is easy it shouldn't cost too much to have it done by a shop

    I'll admit at 57 I don't have the energy I used to to climb under the car but once I get past the jacking and supporting stage I feel right at home again.

    Thanks. I will have them installed by a pro. I just needed somebody to tell me not to do it myself. At 56 going on 24 I still enjoy working on the car, but when I think about all the exhaust systems I installed myself because I couldn't afford a mechanic, with all the dirt and rust falling in my face....yeah, it's worth paying someone else to do it. You haven't stopped going to rock concerts, have you? There are still a lot of good "old' groups out there that can still play like they did years ago. To quote Tom Petty, "I don't know, but I been told, ya never slow down, ya never grow old".

    After all, we're driving Avanti's aren't we?

  17. I don't think hitting 220 at idle in hot weather is necessarily an overheating problem. I do know that ever since I blocked the exhaust crossover I don't have any problems with stalling or poor idle quality when things get warm under there. Don't be afraid to raise the idle a little either. Changing the ignition over to a Pertronix unit will keep the ignition system from reacting to higher temperatures.

    As far as the fan, open the hood before you shut the car off when it's nice and hot; the fan should stop with the engine and not continue to spin. If it makes a turn or two after the engine is off you could use a new fan clutch. Also make sure the fan is on the right way.

    Ernie 64 R2 R5388

    Thanks for your comments. I initially had no problems with over heating in my '63 R2, but on one hot day, while waiting 45 minutes in line for a meet, it began to overheat and run roughly. Changed the distributer condenser, and ran fine - until the next prolonged idling, when it kept stalling as it got hot (220). So 2 problems: 1, the overheating is a new problem (so not a design flaw, but a symptom of something else; 2, I have checked everything you mentioned as best I can myself (I am no mechanic!) - it runs reasonably smoothly, but still over heats at prolonged idle, and cools right down on the road.

    Any thoughts? Should I get an electric fan for the radiator? The engine has 10,000 miles on a complete rebuild, the fan seems tight, speeds right up with increased RPMs, belts are good, no leaks, idle speed 5-600 RPM.

    Thanks

    Dennis Smith

    smithden1@comcast.net

  18. I've used DAS a few times, successfully. They have a depot in Linden, you can track your car on line ( I followed an El Camino from Texas to Linden ) and their prices are in line with their service.

    Ernie R

    Hey there. I need to have my son's car (not an Avanti!) transported from New Jersey to California. Can anyone recommend a reliable transport company? I have heard so many bad things about transport companies that I hesitate to just pick one out of the phone book.

    Thanks.

    Alan

  19. The job isn't terrible. Removing the seats makes it much easier to get underneath. Actually I would remove the steering wheel also. Make sure you disconnect the battery and tag the wires. Change the defroster hoses while you're in there and the trans tunnel cooler hoses if your car has them.

    Also, some stereo speakers are too deep and won't leave enough room for the radio so be careful of your speaker choice.

    Ernie R2 R5388

    I'm thinking about replacing my 63 dash with a new unit from SI.

    It's in good overall shape, but it would allow me to:

    1. Get rid of a hairline crack above the radio that's been fixed once so it can't be again,

    2. Replace an inop front speaker with a better unit,

    3. Have the radio cleaned/serviced

    4. Get the clock repaired.

    Is it a HUGE job?

    How long does it take?

    Do you need any special tools?

    Any tips?

    Would my used fawn dash be worth anything....it's a 7 out of 10 and better than most I've seen?

  20. My guess it wasn't lubed for a long time and the trunnion siezed inside the cap causing the cap to move in the arm boring out the hole enough to let it bang around in there. I can't argue with modern tires stressing the older suspensions differently but I think the Stude stuff is up to the task.

    ErnieR

  21. That control arm is a pretty beefy unit,what happened to it? They may be the same as the Larks so someone like SASCO may have them NOS. Even the used ones are usually in pretty good shape because of the Studebaker external oiling/rust prevention system...leaking engine oil.

    ErnieR

  22. My blower was fine but the new one was built to provide more boost and it was, IMHO, a bargain so I bought it. I also purchased R3 HO aluminum pulleys and a new vibration damper to complete the install.

    My car has quite a few mods. A Chevy 700R4 Overdrive automatic, R3 intake valves, R3 exhaust headers, 2500 RPM stall speed converter, Edelbrock 600 carb but mated to the original AFB topkrate029.jpg

    The engine was bored WAY out and probably displaces 315 cid. I put the Turner front disc system on, which I highly recommend and might spring for the rear disc set up because the front works so well.

    I also made a console and armrest ( removable with no original parts damaged ) and installed a Camaro shifter for the 700R4. I'm going to try to adapt an Avanti ll shifter for a little more vintage look.

    P1010004.jpg

    I want the car to run in the mid 14 second range, best was 15.097.

    track-1.jpg

    Ernie R2 R5388

    [is this your only mod? Was your old blower toast or was the smaller pully the big change?

    Can't wait to get mine back down on the tires!

    Thanks.

  23. I replaced my original pulleys with HO aluminum ones and installed a Nimesh Solanki built HO supercharger. I had a little trouble getting the proper belts. The 56" belt that was recommended wouldn't work with the standard size blower pulley even a 56.5 wouldn't go on. I didn't order a 57 so I was forced[;)]to put the smaller blower pulley I had on the new supercharger.

    Once that pulley was on I was able to get the 56" belt on nice and tight. The car has a totally new persona. The new blower and HO pulleys bring 5 lbs boost on in the 2700 to 3000 rpm range. I don't have enough safe road where I am in NJ to see where the max boost is but I've seen the needle get into the red on a couple of short bursts. The engine feels almost as torquey as my HEMI Magnum!

    I'm looking forward to my next trip to the dragstrip...

    ErnieR

    Nimesh Built HP Supercharger. So pretty it makes the rest look shabby.

    009.jpg

    track.jpg

  24. I don't think the black wheel was factory but it doesn't mean it wasn't dealer installed or previous owner installed early on. I have reason to believe my R2 was delivered to its first owner as a dealer converted R1.

    When I began my career in the sales end of the new car business we routinely swapped around options, i.e tilt wheels, power seats, wheels etc. to deliver a car out of stock rather than factory order.

    Ernie R2 R5388

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