ernier
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Posts posted by ernier
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I did the AFB/Edelbrock Hybrid...the setup is one of my signature pictures. I think there's more to the marine carbs than just the sealing that makes them not perfect for automotive use. I haven'ty experienced any leaking problems with the 1406 carb and the accel pump seal is an easy installation. BTW, not just any AFB top will do. If you go that root I can tell you what to look for and what needs to be done to make it all work properly.
I'll take a walk out to my shop and measure the bonnet inlet. Back to you shortly.
ErnieR
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I can get you measurements when I get home from work if no one responds. If you are tryng to match dimensions with an aftermarket bonnet the height on all I've seen is too nuch for hood clearance on the Avanti. Also the bonnet will only fit older AFB carbs and will not work on Holley's, Quadrajets or Edelbrock without an adapter which then makes it impossible to close the hood.
ErnieR
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Question is...does your car want to stall with the A/C on? If not don't worry about the idle compensator.
ErnieR
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Good thought, I could change the metering. However, I checked the plugs immediately after a run and they were burning exactly the color they should be. If it were running rich would it not show up on the plug?
Too lean a mixture is way down the bottom of the list as a cause of pinging. You would have other symptoms as well like a surge at cruise, poor "tip in" throttle reponse meaning the car would not respond quickly to light throttle input or have a flat spot on light acceleration.
ErnieR
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Finally had time to install new relays ans switch's...So nice to have working windows
...Thanks again Karlps, you should write up a article and sent it to LEW. Know there are others who would benefit from this mod.
Glad it worked well...
Lew knows he can take my post and use it if he feels it's worthy.
ErnieR
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Your pinging increases with temprature because it is pre-ignition. The mixture is exploding with heat and compression before the piston has reached tdc and possibly before the spark occurs.
Your timing mark bouncing around could be spark scatter. You may have ignition wires that are leaking electricity and causing other cylinders to fire when they shouldn't or not fire when they should. It can also mean you have a bad cap, rotor or loose breaker plate in fact anything that would cause a misfire can show up as a bouncing timing mark. Remember all that's happening when the mark bounces is that the light is coming on, being energized, when it shouldn't. Spark scatter between the wires is the most common cause.
You could have a carbon build up that stays hot enough to begin combustion before TDC.
That being said...here's where I would start. Check mechanical advance up past 3500 rpm. Safe would be no more than 32-34 degrees even 30 would be OK. With Vacuum advance attached total timing should be no more than 44 degrees. These are estimates as all engines like different settings.
There's a curve kit available for the Mallory from Summit Racing. You may have to curve the distributor to limit mechanical advance while allowing you to run more initial advance. That's what I have to do with my R2. I run 14-15 degrees initial but limit total advance to 28-30. This way off idle performance is crisp but no ping at full throttle.
Too lean a mixture can cause pinging but timing is more common. If you feel a surge at cruising speeds you may be a little lean.
Pinging at full throttle would not be caused by your vacuum advance as vacuum disappears at the advance can at full throttle.
Try a colder plug. A J10Y or equivalent. I run R43S AC's. The colder plug means that it cools quicker between firings and may help pre-ignition by eliminating a hot spot that could light off the mixture early.
Last but not least if you fill up at the same station all the time try another place. I had a high compression Pontiac that was very touchy especially in the warm weather. If I filled up at the local Sunioco station it pinged more readily than when I filled up a few miles away. My guess is that the station was not actually selling preminum but charging for it. You never know.
ErnieR
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Not a problem for you. Monte Carlo frames do rust but more of a problem if the car was exposed to road salt.
ErnieR
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Congratulations!
I was referring mainly to the interior. I only mentioned it because if you were looking for a very original car the interior is an expensive thing to restore.
I intend to put the wire wheels I have in the garage on my 64 someday.
Great looking car, enjoy!
ErnieR
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I like the car...not 100% original ( neither is mine ) but the interior changes are tasteful and look good with the exterior color. A paint job and full interior restoration could cost you close to the opening $14,500 bid. Buying a good solid car for a fair price is a better bargain than saving a couple of bucks for a car that "needs a few things".
I'd ask for more pictures of the frame and underbody supports and maybe a video of the engine running. Ideally someone to give the car a once over in person. If the car is basically turn key and can be enjoyed the way it is the price is more than fair. IMHO.
ErnieR
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Even though it's a little different I've brought both the 64 and the El Camino to local cruises and most people walk right by the El Camino and start looking over the Avanti.
Now if you should ever get tired of that Avanti of yours...
ErnieR
Ernie
No dis-respect to GM midsize but most car shows here have at least a couple of El Caminos whereas you never see an Avanti.
As you stated 99% of the folks have no Idea what an original one is, although more than you think recognize it as a Studebaker product. So one that shows up that looks good from 10 feet with an almost big block rumble and a nice lope at idle attracts a lot of attention.
And the best thing is you don't need to light up the rear tires when you leave. Just a nice slow roll at idle followed by a mild acceleration to let the exhaust rumble brings a ton of thumbs up.
<GGGG>
Bob
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Bob...
Just watched your video and your car sounds and looks great. You built my perfect Avanti.
I have a ZZ4 and built up 200 4R in the garage that I was originally going to put in my El Camino but listening to your car has me thinking that I might just modify the 350/350 combo that's in the El Camino now and put that ZZ4 in the 88 Avanti.
Kennie...a supercharged Studebaker sounds and looks sexy but it would take some really deep pockets and patience to get it to perform anything like a warmed over SBC.
ErnieR
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For a daily driver I would buy the best 87-89 Avanti I could find. You will pay a third to half what a good r2 would cost, garner as much attention from the general public, gain a " ignore it and drive Chevy drivetrain and chassis" that can be modified as far as your imagination can take you with ready to install parts from a variety of vendors. These are not perfect cars and have some less than top notch power equipment and switch gear. Sunroof can leak, mine did but was an easy repair although your results may vary.
My 64 R2 has an overdrive trans, 4 wheel disc brakes and drives as nicely as I would expect any 64 R2 can but I jump in my '88 without the slightest conceren that I won't get where I'm going and if something should go awry I can be reasonably certain that if it's a mechanical issue I can trot down to my local auto parts store and it's on the shelf or available in a matter of hours.
Besides, as I get older, having shoulder belts, locking seat backs and a collapsible steering column are actually important to me.
The R2 has street cred only to the truly enlightened car enthusiast but to the average guy, even the average CAR GUY, the later cars draw as much attention. In fact I think the only reason my 64 might turn a few more heads is because it's turquoise. If it was white like the 88 I'm guessing it would be a draw.
As far as the manual trans...I'm sure it would be possible to retrofit a nice 5 speed to the Monte Carlo chassis on the 87-89 car if you must have a manual shift.
ErnieR
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You probably need to match the condenser to a universal type by size and fitting style. More than likely it wouldn't be on a local parts store shelf anyway.
Driers can be matched the same way and aren't expensive.
If you had a complete escape of refrigerant there would probably be a wet oily spot where it came out. I concur that the condenser is probably the culprit, it's common but do a visual in case a hose or an O ring let go.
Faced with your problem after I determined that it was the condenser I would just order the parts from Nostalgic.
ErnieR
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Your the man...
Have had same problems with my windows in my 88 LSC for years...
Can you send me the Part # for the switchs and relays.
karlsparks2@sbcglobal.net
Karl
Link for the relays...
http://uneeksupplies.amazonwebstore.com/IMC-Audio-10-Pack-3040-AMP/M/B0032JMKZY.htm
You only need four but for the price to have a few extras is a good thing. They are so versatile you can make use of them for sure.
I don't have a part number for the switches. Here's a link to the same switch on ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Later cars have pin type connectors you want spade so just make sure of the type before you buy.
Easy install but if you have any questions email me directly r2r5388@yahoo.com.
My windows have worked now for the most days in a row since I bought the car
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I've been running un-looped for years with no issues at all. On cars or trucks that have a lot of frame flex maybe it's an issue but unless you are really skilled at 'looping' you might cause more problems than you would have un-looped i.e. kinks and areas of contact that can rub through. I don't recall any loops in the factory installation.
IMHO.
ErnieR
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The window switches on the '88 "beater" Avanti have been giving me fits since I've gotten the car. In fact the power windows have been the only real problem I've had. It needed a motor on the driver's side and a gear on the passenger side. It has since eaten two more gears over there so I need to find out why but that's another post.<BR><BR>Most later cars use reverse polarity motors for the windows. If you have only two wires to your motor it's a reverse polarity motor. The way it works is that one wire is powered while the other is grounded to spin the motor in one direction and vice-versa. Most cars have relays in the circuits but not my '88 Avanti. It has switches that were altered, I assume by Avanti Motors, to take care of all the powering and grounding.<BR><BR>I took the switches apart a couple of times, cleaned, lubed adjusted etc but just when I would really need the windows to go up or down they would fail. So I went on ebay looking for some switches that would fit the console and found dozens of BMW window switches for sale. I bought 4 for $9.95 plus shipping. I figured for the price if I couldn't make them work it was no great loss. The nice thing about the BMW switches is that they are like two separate switches in one and the push down to activate design doesn't require any type of rocker or pivot to wear out.<BR><BR>So much for the history. I took one switch apart and saw which connector would transfer power to the up side and the down side when each was pushed. No matter how many connections the switch has you only need the main power connector and one connector that gets power when you push up and one when you push down.<BR><BR>I went on Amazon.com and found 5 pin Bosch style relays with wiring harnesses from a company called Uneeksupply. Great deal at 10 relays for $24.10 including shipping! You'll need 4 relays for the job.<BR><BR>So heres how you wire it up without even having to cut a factory wire or run a new power lead or ground.<BR><BR>Remove the shift handle by prying out the 'u' clip at the front of the handle. You need to shift the car out of park to get to it easily. Next pry the console plate up at each corner. It's held on by spring clips and should pop out easily. Remove the connectors from the switches. I took the wires out of the connector but it's not necessary. If you want to pull them out you need to put a stiff wire or wire pick behind the spade connector to relaease the one way lock and pull the wire from the connector.<BR><BR>the wire coding is as follows for the switches:<BR><BR>green (both sides)=ignition power 12V<BR><BR>black (both sides)=ground<BR><BR>yellow and black= driver's side down<BR><BR>orange and black=driver's side up<BR><BR>yellow = passenger side down<BR><BR>orange = driver's side up<BR><BR>I don't know if all relay harnesses are color coded the same way so if you are doing the job the number on the relay takes precedance over the colors that being said here's the connections to the relay with numbers and colors:<BR><BR>Each side will need two relays, one for up one for down.<BR><BR>Twist terminal 86 and 87A wires from both relay harnesses together and crimp on a yellow solderless male spade connector. Attach that to the black ground wire from the factory harness.<BR><BR>Terminal number 87 needs to have a wire added. So twist an additional 7 " piece of 14 ga wire and crimp on a yellow male spade connector to the two 87 wires from the relays. The connector needed on the additional wire is determined by the switch you are using. If its' a BMW switch then you need a narrow blue female spade connector. Connect to the green 12V ignition wire.<BR><BR>Cut two 7" wires and attach the narrow blue female connectors to one end and wider blue male spade connectors to the other. These wires connect to the switch and one will go to the up relay and one to the down. Connect one to the 85 terminal on each relay.<BR><BR>Finally, put a wider male spade connector on the 30 terminal wire from each relay and connect that wire to the orange or orange and black for the up relay and yellow or yellow and black for the down relay.<BR><BR>To simplify if you buy the relay and harness and the colors match up to the harnesses I have here's the color connections:<BR><BR>White and black (86 and 87A) from each relay to black from factory harness.<BR><BR>Yellow (87) from each relay to green from factory harness. An additional wire needs to be attached and connected to the power terminal on the switch.<BR><BR>Red from each relay harness (85) to either the up or down output terminal on the switch.<BR><BR>Blue (30) from each relay to either orange/orange and black for up or yellow/yellow and black for down.<BR><BR>Remember one relay for up and one for down but you can share the 12V ign and ground for both and you only need one wire from the 12V ign to power the switch. <BR><BR>A recently found but easily remedied quirk has shown up with this installation. When the car is turned on the window motor will drop the glass a little. Simple fix is to also run a ground wire to each switch attached to the center spade on the left side of the switch...looking down at the switch in its mounting position. It's the red wire to the right of the white, 3rd wire from the left.<BR><BR><IMG src="http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/104.jpg"><BR><IMG src="http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/011-2.jpg"><BR><BR><IMG src="http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/018-2.jpg"><BR><BR>
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If the motors are like my '88 they are the same as my '76 Chrysler NY'er only difference is that right is left on the Avanti and vice-versa. Order new gears at the same time because the don't come with the motor and are probably ready for replacement. Cheap and important.
Just getting power from the switch isn't enough to operate the motor. The switch also grounds one wire while it powers the other so you need to make sure that there is a ground to the unpowered wire when the switch is activated.
In order to take some of the stress of the switches and replace mine with higher quality units I will be insalling BMW switches and relays. When I actually get to the job I'll post instructions.
Meanwhile, if you need to remove the motor...separate the glass from the regulator at the rollers, I used big spring camps to hold the glass up after it was separated. Take out all the bolts and maneuver the regualtor out. The regulator is spring loaded and will snap your finger off if you're holding it in the wrong spot when you unbolt the motor. Note the position of the spring before you undo it. It has to be positioned so it helps the window go up.
Install motor and new gear, it doesn't matter what position the regulator is in when you do it, and maneuver the regulator back in the door. There is a triangular mount that goes in only one way and you need to make sure that you don't use bolts that are too long as they will catch the arms and bind. Peak through the top of the door after everything is bolted up to look for possible spots of contact between bolts and regulator.
You can push the clips on the window rollers back down to their lock position and just push the pins on the regulator arms in. They will expand the clips and lock in place.
BTW, if you can't find the motors locally Rock Auto stocks them and the gears. 76 Chrysler Ny'er will get you the right stuff assuming the '89 is like the '88
ErnieR
My drivers power window quit,and started working and now quit again.I have the trim pannel off now. Before I start taking things apart would this be a GM from the donner car. The switch is good it is getting power to the motor. Last year I rebilt the two rear power windows, that was fun. Does.
any one have a proto call for pulling the window and or the motor out.
Thanks
Rich
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Having both a 64 and 88 I don't believe that the 88 under normal driving conditions handles or rides any better than my 64. The 64 has a virtually new/rebuilt suspension, all pieces except front coils and the 88 is a low mileage car with new shocks and tires.
The 88 is more "jiggly" and doesn't feel as solid as the 64. It is quieter and has quicker steering but those two things aren't different enough to warrant a frame swap like you are considering. Besides, you would have to alter the nose and maybe the rear quarters to adapt the Monte frame. If you take the front bumper off an 88 you will see that the bottom of the fenders and lower valence have been removed to accomodate the frame extensions and bumper supports.
If you rebuild you 'new' Stude frame's suspension you will have a very comfortable, tight and nice handling Avanti. BTW, I noticed the biggest improvement after replacing the rear leaf springs. Second on the list was front A frame bushings upper and lower, with original type rubber.
Add to the above, new lower steering column bushing, tightening and properly shimming the body at the radiator support, sound deadening material under the carpet, headliner and dash. Sealing all openings to the passenger compartment both from the engine compartment and trunk area, new gas shocks and keeping the tires inflated at no more than 26 rear and 28 front all contribute to the comfortable 'ride'.
IMHO...
ErnieR
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I like them, and they probably allow more light projected to the road.
ErnieR
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i have a 85 touring coupe i would like to sell it has 55000 mi on it never bumped all the options 5sp trans black in and out painted in 99 st0red since 2005 because i had a stroke and can no longer drive it. very good looking and fun to drive i would like to get1600 out of it.phone is 360-733-5741 email rhaggen@comcast.net
I assume you mean $16,000...if $1600 I'll PayPal the money NOW!
ErnieR
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Try posting this question on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum.
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
ErnieR
i am restoring a r1 63 avanti vin 63r2970 . it has manual steering. i want to convert it to power steering. on ebay there is a compete ps system but it fits a 61 hawk. will this work ? if not what are the diferences ? I have installed the quick steering arms and already have a pump. the eaton box is in good condition. if this system is not conpatible, which ones are
thanks.
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I know this a late reply but I see no one responded. If you have electric fans for engine coling they may be aftermarket to begin with so look for a brand name somewhere. If not, I believe the temp sensor relays and sensors are available through places like Summit Racing and can be adapted to any brand fan.
ErnieR
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I have an 88 and a 64. The ride and handling are completely different. The 88 steers better, stops better ( unless you've upgraded the brakes on the Stude ) and is much quieter. My '4 rides very nicely, less jiggle than the 88. If your Stude needs suspension work your opinion my be different but mine is all rebuilt and tight. The Monte Frame is extremely flexible and GM braced the bodies under the hood from cowl to fenders, cross braced at the radiator and on some G Body's behind the rear seat. The only bracing on the Avanti is cross bracing at the front suspension. Generally, though, the car rides nicely in a more modern way.
Look closely at the interior. The leather doesn't hold up well.
I repaired the huge sunroof leak in mine but still need to replace the windshield gasket to cure another big leak.
Electrical wiring inside is comical, interior build quality is poor. Lots of glue, lock switches and mirror switches just stuck in the holes with no backing for support, screws just screwed into fiberglass etc. More kitcar-ish than production car.
I don't know where the heater and A/C units came from but based on the cheap plastic blower motor it may be an aftermarket unit.
Now that I've bashed it let me say that I really like my 88. I drive it all over. It's been extremely reliable.
My favorite thing is the small steering wheel and steering column position. The column sits low almost in your lap and I'm sure that's why the wheel is only 14" but that happens to be the most comfy position or me.
The 88 is a double edged sword. The mechanicals are easy and familiar and if you don't change things you will have a reliable driver for many miles. Problem is, unless you have a patient and cheap mechanic or can do evrything yourself like I can the non Chevy stuff could drive you crazy.
ErnieR
I'll be looking at an 88 Avanti later this week. I know it does not have hog troughs but is mounted on a full Chevy frame. Does this in any way compromise the handling characteristics, ride, steer etc. It has a 305 rather than the 350 I would prefer. Should I expect noticeably different acceleration, top end etc? How is this year production viewed compared to older or more recent models/
Thanks, Sal
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Originals are rare and expensive. I have one in my car and it doesn't lock in all positions but I'm afraid to take it apart because if something breaks I wouldn't have a clue where to find parts. They are Delco units and probably share soemthing with GM cars but tilts were rare in 64 for GM also.
I would go with an ididit column. They aren't cheap but the last time I saw a Stude tilt column for sale it was $2,000 plus!
ErnieR
Am looking for a tilt steering column for my '63R3453. Recomentations or item availability would be appreciated.
R-2 Bonnet and Hose
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
2 3/4" ID hose is what you would need.
ErnieR