ernier
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Posts posted by ernier
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Rebuild the 200 and ask your rebuilder to do some upgrades a good rebuilder will know what to do. Gear spacing is better in the 200 as is the O/D ratio.
I just replaced the 700 I put in in my 64 a few years ago with a 200.
ErnieR
I have an earlier 1988 Avanti Convert which is on the Monte Carlo chassis. 2 nd gear just went out in the tranny. is there a better transmission out there I should think about putting under the car or should i just rebuild the one that is in it which I think is a 200-4R..?? -
Try ignoring the factory recommended timing setting and advance the timing about 5 degrees. Adjust curb idle and see if that helps. If it does you want to check the advance weights to see if they stick, the breaker plate itself for freedom of movement and if they check out make sure you set the static timing at a very low curb idle rpm. You want to make sure that no centrifugal advance is occuring when you set the static. Sometimes if the static is set at too high a curb idle rpm some centrifugal may be starting to come on. in that case the static is set too far retarded to compensate for the centrifugal advance but when the car is put in gear ( with automatic ) the rpm drops along with the centrifugal advance and the overly retarded timing at that point causes the car to stall.
Throttle linkage that doesn't always return all the way can lead to improper setiings and erratic idle and stalling, also.
There are gaskets at the back of the heads sealing water jacket holes. You may be seeing a little seapage there.
Ernie R2 R5388
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I would look for a vacuum leak. Intake manifold gaskets will cause the symptoms you described, as will mis-adjusted valves, bad cam lobe and any nummber of things. But...intake gasket problems are sneaky and will disappear right off idle and only manifest themselves at cruising speeds as a slight surge. I had new metal gaskets that didn't seal. Changed to fiber style and problem was solved.
The return line will not cause any of the problems you are experiencing. I ran my car for years without the line hooked up.
Ernie R2 R5388
Hi, great forum., lots of info. I need more. I have an R2 not running good, bad idle, no idle, high speed ok, replaced carb, intake, fuel pump, It has a chyrsler ign system. The person I got the car from had removed the fuel return line. Does anyone run with only the one line? how does it run? or is this my problem? Car is tuned up , timed, carb set, I am useing a Eldenbrock carb (stock jets) inside the R3 air box. Any ideas on this? Thanks Roland -
Simplest and least expensive would be a Pertronix unit. Next I would rcommend the Dave T Mallory distributor but it MUST be re-curved to R2 Specs. MSD is more for show than function on an engine that redlines at 5,000 RPM.
ErnieR
I have finished a frame on restoration on my 64R2. I am now interested in information about swtiching over to an electronic ignition system such as MDS(I think that is the correct initials)So, who has switched over and is using which system? How happy are you since the conversion?
Thanks guys; ladies too.
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You need to get everything loose, get the window off the regulator and jockey things around until you can get to the motor bolts and remove the motor. lots of tension in the spring so be careful. Once the motor is away from the gear in the regulator you can collapse it and pull it out.
ErnieR
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The switch on a '69 Grand Prix I had was a sliding affair that allowed part throttle downshifts. If the Avanti is just a switch for full throttle shifts only adjusting it for better contact should solve your problem.
ErnieR
Please see attached photo. Can anyone confirm that this is the kick down switch for the SBC 400 with the TMH400? And if so can it be adjusted. Seem like I really got to push hard on the pedel to engage downshift and sometimes it doesn't even engage. With inspection it appears that when the throttle swivels around it doesn't make good contact to the push in button on the switch. Any advice or knowledge appreciated.INSERT IMAGE FEATURE DOESN'T SEEM TO WORK!
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I figured that was what was meant...I haven't finished "restoring" my trunk yet
, no cover on the spare. BTW, there is a separate compartment under the mat to the left of the well for the factory lug wrench.
ErnieR
I believe the problem (at least with mine) with radials is that the sidewalls are much more round than an older bias ply. The radial fit in the trunk diameter wise but stuck out quite a bit height wise. Kind of irritated me for some reason. The Coker reproduction biasply was not that much and was delivered to my door. I don't believe the shipping was that much either. It just comes as a wrapped up tire, not in a box or anything. I have no intention of driving on it.It was fun to see the guys at Discount Tire when I took it to be mounted.
Nice looking (at least from ad) 63 for sale up at Kompact Kar Korner in Lynnwood. It is listed in Seattle Craiglist.
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I have a radial tire in the trunk, although I don't have the cover so I can't tell if it will cause the cover to sit too high but a 215/75R15 does fit into the well. Why not just get a Ford or Chrysler wheel out of the junkyard. 1.5" wider but I doubt anyone would know.
ErnieR
RD - Just make sure you do NOT try to put a radial tire in the spare tire well in the trunk...it will NOT fit. I had to buy a 670x15 bias ply. I used a late model Mustang jack, from a salvage yard, so that I didn't have to allow the original jack crank handle to float arround loose in the trunk. The Mustang jack & handle are attached. -
I bought a set of Crown Vic wheels 15x6 out of the local junkyard. The car rode and handled noticeably better. With Ford wheels you need to buy different lugnuts with Chrysler wheels you can use Stude nuts.
I have Turner brakes on my car with no clearance issues and if I had painted the rims white I doubt anyone would know they weren't factory.
My hupcaps have stopped rotating also.
I have P215/75R15 tires on my car although 205/75 or 215/70 would also be good choices. On my car I have found that running 26-28 pounds in the tires improves ride and handling as opposed to higher inflations as used on modern iron. The car is less 'darty' and more secure feeling around corners with the lower inflation pressure, your results may vary:)
ErnieR
I need advice about replacement wheels and tires for Avantis. My 64 R2 is almost ready for the road. The restoration is only 7 years behind schedule and 300% over budget - much improved from my last project.Most of what I see on the web suggests wheels no larger than 15 X 6 as a general rule and lots say stick with 15 X 5. This car has a Turner brake conversion. What about backspacing & offset? Lots of stuff out there about overstressing the front end with the wrong spec wheels. Lots of stuff about different size tires front & rear. Why is that? For best combination of good handling & traction and smooth ride, what tire size(s)work best with no clearance issues? Anybody have thoughts on wire wheels?
I'm more of a touring driver than hot rodder but I do have my moments and I do enjoy the winding backcountry roads in the TX hill country.
I'm sure this has been rehashed a bazillion times but I would appreciate some straight talk from guys with experience.
Thanks in advance,
Irishman
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My guess would be a hose, clamp or heater valve before the core itself. Core's usually seep or drip but it's rare that they gush. If it is a radiator shop can recore the core. I do think the Stude and the Avanti II are the same though. At least I hope so, I just bought one on ebay out of a II as a spare for my '64.
Hi All,There are heater problems with my 1978 Avanti II, RQB 2679. When the heater temperature control lever is pushed on and the car is warmed up, coolant starts to pour into the passenger compartment. And, I mean pour - not drip. I am suspecting either a bad heater core or water valve or hose problem. My question is this: on the 1978s, is the heating and venitlating system, heater core, etc. the same as on the 1963-64 Studebaker Avantis? That is, in looking at the 1963-64 Avanti Workshop Manual, will that be of any help as my mechanic tackles this problem? (He is pretty good at these kinds of cars and has a restoration shop - but just wondering what we are in for. It doesn't look like an easy job.) Anybody know if Myers or Nostalgic have these kinds of parts? Also, anybody have any advice on the best thing to use to get that coolant stain out of the carpet?
Any info, guidance or advice will be appreciated. Thanks much.
Bobav78
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If you can't find a piece and have bent ones with patience they can be straightened and buffed. I bent one of the front ones but was able to fix it.
ErnieR
Thanks Gunslinger. That information helps. I was not aware that the Avanti II's through the mid 80's would be the same. -
I have heard that someone made some Supercharger carb bonnets that would fit an Edelbrock. Does anyone know who did?
There are adapters but I don't think the hood would close. There aren't any vendors I know of that sell a modified oem bonnet.
I built a Hybrid Edelbrock with the original top but the Edelbrock bonnet. If you have basic skills it's easy. If you want to explore the mod I can give you details.
ErnieR
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I have a severe electrical short inside the steering column. I am wondering if anyone knows who made the column and internals components, are parts still available? Second half of the question, does anyone have a complete, fully functional tilt column for sale? The ignition switch on my Avanti is in the dash (just like the original Avanti).
Definitely repair rather than replace. The column is not hard to remove and the harness isn't difficult to get out.
If your column is similar to the style in the 1964 cars expect to have a dufficult time finding one and pay big money. The last one on ebay went for around $1200.
ErnieR
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I just double checked myself and I did read right. It bothers me to pass on mis-information. Thanks for backing me up, Bruce!
ErnieR
South Bend is wrong. According to the parts manual, AC3289 is black seat belts, front and rear as Ernie said. Why the build sheet has L&R is beyond me as that it suggests left and right. I also thought seat belts were standard equipment, but maybe the build sheet merely records what color seat belts were installed.Outside rear view mirrors were dealer installed I thought. Maybe if they might have been listed on the build sheet, they were packed inside the car for dealer installation, like the wheel covers were. Mirrors were also AC-3310, not AC-3289.
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I'll have to look at the parts book again, my eyes get blurry late at night.
ErnieR
I called Southbend and he said that "X84 AC3289 L&R" ment left and right outside mirrors. -
It was over $100. It was awhile ago. Set your reserve where you are comfortable to be fair to yourself, the buyers will stop bidding when they feel they need to be fair to themselves. Definitely do one at a time though.
Good Luck...
ErnieR
Thank you ErnieCan you just give me a "rough idea" of what it went for? I just want to be fair to the buyer and I want to be fair to myself too
Thanks
Dom
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Bad grounds are often diagnosed as bad switches. Check the motor ground and that the switch is grounded.
ErnieR
Does anyone know where they got the windshield wiper switch for the 1978 model? I heard somewhere they were sourced from Chrysler - same switch as Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare.Mine's shot - the wipers seem to have a mind of their own!
Thanks
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Does anyone know where they got the windshield wiper switch for the 1978 model? I heard somewhere they were sourced from Chrysler - same switch as Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare.
Mine's shot - the wipers seem to have a mind of their own!
Thanks
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The beauty of ebay is that the auction will determine their worth. I don't remember what the last one I saw on ebay went for but I know I didn't bid because it went higher than I was willing to spend. If you put one on I'm sure it will not go un-noticed and doubtful it will sell cheap.
ErnieR
I hope I'm posting this in the correct section.I have a couple of brand new, wrapped in tissue, NOS 63/64 Avanti Horn center caps. I was wondering if someone can tell me what the value of them are. I was going to put them on Ebay, and I need an idea of they're worth.
Thank You
Dom
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Black seatbelts front and rear.
ErnieR
I just purchased a build sheet from South Bend Museum. I have a question on what this means? "X84 AC3289 L&RSOLD RUSH"
Thanks
Stude63
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Before serial number 4879 is silver.
ErnieR
As part of my paint job, I'm going to replace the plastic insert on my 63 (Jan 63 build date)...Is the "S" supposed to be silver or gold?
And what about the ones on the "C" pillar?
Thanks
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Is the 85 a GM Chassis? If so there's a ton of stuff available to upgrade the original G Body steering without going to the rack. But if you've made the commitment to the rack and pinion why not just fix the parts that are in need?
ErnieR
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I would jump over to the SDC Forum and post this question. At $550 a set I'd want to be sure also.
ErnieR
Ernier gave that information in reply to a question I posed here about carpet suppliers.Since then, I've been wondering about it. He may be correct...but I want a second/third/fourth opinion before I spend big bucks.
I've asked J Myer at the AOAI about it. If he doesn't know, perhaps he can point us in the right direction (like a show judge) for confirmation.
In the meantime, I asked Phantom and they do thave fawn & black and red & black SP carpet sets for about $550.00. I also asked them about what was stock..
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I'm guessing the mixture for a black and fawn interior would be black and beige. The mixture was based on the interior color not the exterior. I have no experience with Phantom for other than my black carpet but I would start with them. Carpet isn't all that expensive and if they have it my guess is that it will be more "correct" than another source.
ErnieR
Thanks, I didn't know that.So Phantom does S&P?
I got some samples from SMS in Oregon, they have S&P but it's mainly red....I don't think I want that (it's a fairly bright red, not a good match for the exterior Avanti red..IMHO).
Is the correct S&P 50%-50% or mainly red or black?
Metallic "Clunk" Sound
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Did this start happening after a change in engines or carburetors?
If the idle is too high you will get a rough engage.
Does the transmission take a long time to shift out of 1st gear under light acceleration?
A loose pinion yoke.
U joints will make noise but usually produce vibrations when you're driving also. Any roughness on accel or decel?
Usually it's the simple things so try reducing idle 1st...easiest and cheapest.
ErnieR