Jim S

I did. Still waiting for a reply.

I have the console forward pieces installed. Those must go somewhere else. But thank-you for the input.

I bought a carpet kit from Newark Carpet for my Avanti. The set fit perfectly. However I have four pieces left that I cannot find where they go. I need to still cover the kick panels and not of the leftover pieces fit there. If someone has used this kit before, I could use some help to find out where they go.

That is correct. Your suggestion makes sense as the starter is pulling the majority of power from the battery during cranking.

I completed that stage. Now the wire from the starter to the distributor that supplies voltage during cranking is now hooked up. I measured that voltage and it is only 9 volts. How can that be? It's the green wire with black stripe. Is it a resistance wire as well?

FINALLY! I got the rear brakes to engage. I replaced the "new" master cylinder I purchased from NAPA with a rebuilt one from Autozone. The NAPA was the issue. Brakes are doing the job. Now onto starting the car. It seems I get no voltage to the HEI distributer during cranking. But as soon as I release the key from crank to run the engine with start. Seems like no voltage in crank but its there in run. Is that a bad ignitions switch? It's a 72 with the GM collum switch. And do I need to replace the pink resister wire with a normal one? A diagram of the 72 starting circuit and switch would help me a lot.

I was told this car didn't orginally have the valve and I was advised to remove it. I installed a residual check valve. Still not getting rear brakes to engage. Also, I could not find proportioning valve tool that fit mine when I did have it installed. So I could not center the thing.

Great minds think alike. I just watched the same video a little while ago! Thank you for your advice. I ordered the tool from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow.

It is a 72. The brand X booster and master cylinder that was in there had a proportioning valve in line. I used the same valve with the OEM booster and master cyl that I put back in. I bled the system first without the valve as I was told the car originally did not use one. Second time around, I put the valve back in and re bled. It made no difference. The front calipers are grabbing, but with the rear wheels off the ground, I put it in gear and applied the brakes. The rear wheels kept moving. Also, I don't know about the centering tool for the valve, so of course I did not do that!

I have completed the Turner Brake upgrade and all new drum brake parts on the rear. Today I got my original booster rebuilt back from Studebaker Itnl and a new master cylinder installed. I bleed the system 3 times. The brakes engage, however only until the pedal is almost at the floor! I checked the measurement of the booster to master push rod and it is correct. Any thoughts welcome.

I found a rebuilt booster from NAPA and the master cylinder that was used by Avanti Motors. I will be installing those two units to bring it back to factory. Hopefully, that will do the trick! Film at eleven.

You nailed it Brad. The light flickers when I shift. I put a temporay circuit break where the fuse goes and it trips with movement of the shifter. That's where it's shorting.

With the engine off, I depressed the brake pedal and it was firm. When I started the engine, the pedal went down. I think this would indicate the booster was in fact working. So I'm stumped again as too why it still takes tons of pressure on the pedal to stop this car. I'm still open to suggestions. I bleed all the air out startin with the passenger rear cylinder, driver's side, front passenger caliper and the driver's caliper.

On my '72, the pivot bolt is 20.5 inches above the armrest. I put the retractor down inside, removing the ashtray and running the belt up through where the ashtrays would have sat.

I just installed the Turner brakes on the front of my 72 Avanti replacing the factory Bendix brakes. I also put new wheel cylinders, shoes and turned the drums on the back. All air bleed out. And low and behold there is absolutly no difference in braking. I have to almost use both feet to stop the car! And it will creep forward in idle if I let up on the pedal a bit. Would this be the indicator of a bad booster? The original Bendix booster was replaced by the previous moron with a Ford Galaxie conversion unit. It's getting vacuum, but I don't think it's working. Before I spend another $400 on getting the original booster rebuilt, I need to know if it will solve the problem.