Jim S

I found a rebuilt booster from NAPA and the master cylinder that was used by Avanti Motors. I will be installing those two units to bring it back to factory. Hopefully, that will do the trick! Film at eleven.

You nailed it Brad. The light flickers when I shift. I put a temporay circuit break where the fuse goes and it trips with movement of the shifter. That's where it's shorting.

With the engine off, I depressed the brake pedal and it was firm. When I started the engine, the pedal went down. I think this would indicate the booster was in fact working. So I'm stumped again as too why it still takes tons of pressure on the pedal to stop this car. I'm still open to suggestions. I bleed all the air out startin with the passenger rear cylinder, driver's side, front passenger caliper and the driver's caliper.

On my '72, the pivot bolt is 20.5 inches above the armrest. I put the retractor down inside, removing the ashtray and running the belt up through where the ashtrays would have sat.

I just installed the Turner brakes on the front of my 72 Avanti replacing the factory Bendix brakes. I also put new wheel cylinders, shoes and turned the drums on the back. All air bleed out. And low and behold there is absolutly no difference in braking. I have to almost use both feet to stop the car! And it will creep forward in idle if I let up on the pedal a bit. Would this be the indicator of a bad booster? The original Bendix booster was replaced by the previous moron with a Ford Galaxie conversion unit. It's getting vacuum, but I don't think it's working. Before I spend another $400 on getting the original booster rebuilt, I need to know if it will solve the problem.

Thank-you!

I was thinking about that but I don't know if they make them that large. It would have to be between 7/16" and 1/2" to fit the hole.

On my 72 there's a plate on the roll bar that is held in place by two 3/8" bolts. This plate is what the upper pivot of the shoulder strap attaches to. One of the bolts was stripped. I got it out, but apparantly there's a nut inside the roll bar and it fell down inside! Does anyone have and suggestions for a workaround to secure the bottom of this plate?

LOL!

Why are electrical problems always rooted behing the dash?!! Any thoughts on why this fuse keeps blowing? I'm thinking about just wireing a whole new set of wires for these four items and bypass the old circuit. But looking at the wireing diagram it appears it runs through the courtesy light and cigar lighter too. Any tips are welcome.

My '72 RQB1878 had a 400cid in it. I found out the hard way because everything I read indicated it was a 350. When I replaced the 400 with a 350 long block I found out the harmonic balancer and flex plate were the external balancers and the new engine vibrated. Once I swapped those 2 componets out with the correct ones, no more vibration. A hard and expensive lesson was learned.

I ordered a build sheet way back in last June for my 72 from Nostalgic Motors. As of this writing I have still not recieved it. I contacted Dan Booth nearly a month ago and he told me they did not get the VIN number of my car. I provided it. He said the sheet is going in the mail that day. I have still not recieved it. I finally spoke with Dan yesterday. Apparently, the US mail service is the culprit. He has mailed me a second copy of my build sheet. I had a great conversation with Dan for almost an hour. He is a wealth of information and my new number one go to for many of my needs!

Yes, for sure!

I think I just didn't get all the air out of the system. Runs cool now. What I didn't know is my car was a late production with a 400 in it! I put the harmonic balancer and flexplate from that engine on the 350. If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have none at all. I changed out the balancer for the correct one. But I need a transmission shop to change the flex plate. I've been told it can be done with the engine in the car, and that the transmission can be unbolted and moved back enough to drop the flexplate. I hope they are correct as that is what I told the shop that will perform the job!

I agree on pulling the engine/tranny together. Problem for me is, I can't find a hoist with a boom long enough to reach the center of the engine. This last swap was very difficult to do with the short boom I had to work with. It took 3 people with a lof of muscle to push the engine forward at an angle on the hoist. I looked at the 72 specs on Bob Johnson's page and it showed only a 350 engine. Probably where the confusion lay. Was the 400 a special option?