Nelson

I buddy in Phoenix is parting a 63 R2 4 speed car. No engine or trans but lots of other stuff. He has a power steering setup minus the power steering pump. He has the steering box, control valve assembly, power cylinder and bell crank. All as is. He wants $750 for the setup. Also, if interested, the car has excellent California dry frame, title, serial plate, body plate etc. If interested pm me and I’ll forward his contact info.

Probably yes and possibly better if all was equal. Copper is heavier and more expensive. The modern aluminum radiators have the fins and tubes soldered together for better heat transfer. The older copper radiators had the fins just pushed in place. I think later copper units did solder the fins to the tubes so they were efficient but still heavy and expensive. Aluminum is a great conductor and is close to as good as copper so all things considered aluminum is the best choice.

I would think nobody at that price!

I used to think the same thing on the color combination. However, the older I get the more I appreciate the gold/elk.

Whoops, I didn’t read the entire question. One would be the plenum which was more forgiving to altitude changes the other might be the fresh air induction keeping the blower cooler and hp up. Another would be the addition of multiple breathers to reduce crankcase pressure.

I know on the Larks and Hawks they messed with the crank and blower pulley size, not sure on the Avanti.

Shims

It took awhile. The answer seems obvious after you hear the answer.

How about the pulley system? Getting desperate.

Anything to do with the pcv system?

Boost line running to top of fuel pump on R2 might be one?

I’m sure this isn’t it but maybe the throttle kicker and ignition shielding on a radio delete car?

Probably a gallon of base coat but it’s always best to get extra for potential repairs in the future you know the color will match. I will tell you, you should talk with someone that has done the turquoise before just to make sure your formula is correct; I wouldn’t go by a spray can bought from a vendor! Brad Bez has painted some turquoise Avantis and he must have a viable formula for correct match. Also, when they do mix the color MAKE SURE they use the smallest aluminum chop for the metallic. Most shops are use to todays paints which have larger metal flakes. The color formula could be right and if the flake is wrong it will not look right!

Yep. I’d say that about sums it up.

Another reason I bought Tom’s wheels. H lives near Indianapolis and I live in Cincinnati. I was able to pick them up and save a substantial shipping bill. Yes, I admit, ima CASO type of guy and proud of it.😊

They are both good reproductions. I bought Tom’s wheels as I compared both reproduction wheels to a set of originals. The Real Rodder wheels appear to be too heavy or too thick on the spoke material. Tom’s seem pretty darn close to correct to me. With the exception of the 1963 Bonneville Avantis this style Halibrand is not correct on 1963:Studebaker’s, I think Tom is considering making the 63 kidney bean small window Halibrand that is correct for the entire 63 line of Studebaker’s. This wheel was also used by other manufacturers at events such as Sebring and Lemans.

That’s interesting. I have a used set of 51 lower control arms with parts attached. I’ll have to take a closer look at them. Would they raise or lower the car. You seem to say it would raise the car?

The drop is accomplished by the knuckle. The lowered control arm changes the camber geometry.

I can just see the guy that has that stash trying to install one and throwing them out as they don’t fit the assumed correct way.

One photo is a shot of the top control arm lowered in the frame. Not a good photo but the best I could do without removing the supercharger inlet hose. The other photo shows the lower knuckle above the nut. This change results in the front end being lowered 2 inchs or drop spindle.

That’s funny. I’m the same way. When my mind is running on the right course I can’t sleep. In looking at the photos I’m wondering if you couldn’t turn the lower support upside down and use the right on the left etc?

I imagine they did the top as it is way more prone to wear out as it rotates about twice as far as the lower during deflection.

I couldn’t find any so rather than continue looking I just went into the garage and took two. Not the best shots as there are items in the way. The first is looking down at the upper control arm passenger side and the second is the drop spindle.

The nine factory Avantis did not get the lowered control arms or the drop spindles. The intention was to install as part of the R3/4 package but I assume cost and time was not on Studebaker’s side. The Bonneville cars were equipped as the intended full option. I’ll have to do some hunting for photos.