Zedman

If there is anybody out there that provide any guidance / advice om removing a headliner (on an '1981 model or thereabouts) and / or getting at the bulk of the 'Moonroof' , I'd really like to hear from you. My Moonroof . I feel that I need to dive into investigating the Moonroof Before I get involved with repainting the body in 2025. I've already fished out some rusted sheetmetal from up there and know that I'm in for heartache if i don't investigate it now. whehter I repair it or delete it- only investigation will determine that path. The sliding panel in the ceiling is stuck and had to be pushed back forcefully just to gain a small opening, so far.

There is a lot of meat in the 13/16" bores- It struck me that they could be drilled & reamed out to 7/8" and a new kit of parts put in...?

Yep solved it- thanks for the offer Bill; waaay cheaper to replace the cyls with the units the Mustang parts sellers have..

Be aware that many SBC's around late 1970's through to early 1980's had problems with cam and lifter wear (particularly giving 305 cid haters more justification to vent). My Avanti II's 305 (1981 year) showed horrific wear on three lobes and 80% of the lifters utterly destroyed- and only 65,000 original miles ! How it ever ran, I don't know. If you're not intending to rebuild a second hand engine, at least look at the Lifters and Camshaft, Timing Gears and Chain. You ought to look at an Automatic overdrive transmission swap while the opportunity presents, unless of course you'd like a 4 or 5 speed manual...

Hi Guy- Photos sent via PM at your request,,,

I can offer you photos taken of my 1981 Avanti Frame stripdown. These were used for references. Photos of the Front Crossmember showing the placement of redundant original Studebaker Lark mounting holes and the pattern shift to accommodate a Chev V8. These would be as per Avanti Factory original. Pictures of the Engine mounts and Shims. I daresay you could Purchase these from Dan Booth in Wixom. Photos of the Transmission mount and its position within the Daytona 'X ' Member (I have a TH350C auto trans. Regards...

Will do !

Hi Bill- I share your sentiments ! Unfortunately re-sleeving here in Oz seems to have become a limited business... not many shops do this work and often "charge like wounded bulls". One mob in South Australia (they do most of the work for various shops) quote a three week turn around and freight on top plus kickbacks were well into three hundred bucks for the pair. ) I did get a quote back from on e fellow in a regional area that said he couldn't do 'em because sleeving material in that size wasn't available (either that or he had nil stock). He did mention that he'd do other cyls for $80 (Australian), which is pretty reasonable. However- The mustang Cylinders are IDENTICAL Dorman products and were postage paid from Sydney to Melbourne overnight for barely a hundred bucks all in- i.e. an obvious choice. I gotta stress, though, that we get absolutely fleeced for car parts here in Oz- Stateside prices are cheep !

I have recently fitted all new tubing on my1981's (RQB 2369) Frame for brake lines, Fuel Supply, Return and Vapour canister. I had quite a task runnng the fuel lines due to their robust diameters and took quite some time to make these look as neat as possible. Brake lines were relatively easily replicated and came out quite neatly although I did not follow the exact 'factory' shape over the rear axle and modified that slightly. My question is were all these lines pre- formed at the factory on some sort of jig, or were they just run and bent by hand and eye by the employee. My instinct tells me these were probably one off bends and hand fitted on each car. Is there anybody out there who worked at the Newman and Altman years able to settle a bet between myself and a friend over this query? I'd like to post a few pics but I'm still trying to figure out how I can reduce my overloaded 'quota'.

Just wanting to put it out there that it might be prudent to put some demand on our suppliers. I have recently been on a hunt for replacement cylinders for the rear drum brakes if my 1981 Avanti II. On researching, it appears that 13/16" cylinders to suit are starting to have the dreaded "Discontinued line" and "Low Stock" attached to various suppliers like Jegs, Summit etc. I have ordered Ford Mustang 1968 V8 cyls (13/16" bore) from a mustang specialist here in Australia and will be trying these for fit- they are ostenibly correct, but ya never know. This site has a lot of good info on interchangeability just in case others might want the info.... https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-15271-w37782.aspx?origin=keyword

Hi All- I cannot post any more pictures as I have apparently used up my limit. I'm trying to delete these in my account but cannot see any provision for it. Can somebody kindly tell me how I can delete these, please?

Hi Desert Driver- Yep ! That looks like it's the same line ... Thanks so much for confirming what I have to look for and where it emanates. The Body is off the frame and on supports, I can easily go find the loose ends and at least put a tag on 'em. Much appreciated. 🖖

Hi Dazavant- You haven't declared the cylinders are defective/pitted/leaking so I'm assuming they are. You might consider getting the originals sleeved in Stainless steel or brass and re-kitted. I would caution using larger diameter cyls because it will alter the amount of fluid needing to be pushed into 'em (longer pedal stroke) and alter the braking characteristics. Of course this will run into a bit of money but... Brakes.. Mate ! 😉

Hi All- I am hoping somebody with a 1981 circa Avanti II with the ECU controlled Carb might be able to confirm the vacuum end of the line connected to the MAP Sensor in the picture. I don't rightly know where it sources its vacuum from other than making assumptions it is variously fitted to the carb or manifold somewhere. The Sensor end is bundled with the wiring harness running along the right hand fender skirt- so I really don't know where it originates from. The tube appears to have a rubber end on it that fits on the MAP Sensor barb, but the line appears to be very thin plastic. I'd really appreciate somebody having a look for me please !

Thanks, that confirms my assumptions. 👍

Thanks I've noticed at least two other Earth connections... one on the RH engine mount to chassis, and another from the Transmission to RH Chassis rail (somewhat like you've shown in your pic). I guess my white earth lead is there to mitigate the inherent insulation of the head gaskets.

I have just completed a rebuild on the 305 Chev engine and re attaching 'bits' and thought I'd re attach this Earth Lead. When I commenced dismantling my 1981 Avanti II, I took plenty of photos and annotated them because I knew if I didn't, I'd pay one day. In this case, a white Earth lead attached to the right hand rear-most inner side rocker cover screw was discovered disconnected when I first found it sticking upward. From it's shape, I bent it, it looks like it simply attaches to one of the bolt holes in the rear of the same Head. Can somebody confirm the attachment point for this 'loose end 'please? Can't upload a picture because I'm apparently over my limit...

I think MFG and Gunslinger have sorted out my query. If in fact a PAIR of Mountings were available, both right and left configurations in Aluminium Bronze then I guess my Avanti just received one 'old stock' Ferrous mount. Thanks.👍.

Yeh- Absolutely, but Aluminium Bronze is an extremely strong, tough , very wear resistant alloy. Generally running at 5 to 10% Aluminium with small amounts of Silicon and Manganese added, the bulk of the material is Copper. The colour is a light gold rather than the dark brown traditional bronze - like in statues. Our Australian $1 and $2 coins (the all original Brass-Razzoos!🤣) are made from Ally Bronze as well. As far as the Engine Mounts were concerned I theorized as to whether earthing on these might be superior... Just for those who wonder about the spelling.... Over here we do use an extra 'i' in Aluminium 😏. My 1981 Avanti RQB 3269 will be finally commencing its re-assembly from bare-Frame in two weeks.... about time.

When I removed the Engine Mountings from my 1981's Frame I noted that the Right hand one is cast from Aluminium Bronze whereas the left hand one is cast Iron/steel. I've been meaning to table this question for ages.... is there any significant reason for these dissimilar metals?

Grant- I'm intending to remove the complete AIR injection Valve,Manifold injection Tubes, Hoses and Check Valves Pump (I've repaired it but I have never seen such a failure-prone object such as these), Cat Con and hot air tube.... Oughtta make Sparkplug maintenance easier too. There are Plugs marketed for blocking the Manifolds- I believe these are 5/16" US pipe. You should remove the little flared Tubes within the Manifolds before fitting Plugs.

Avantir4- I remember having a devil of a time getting "flow" having opened up the Brake System on m y 321i BMW convertible years ago. I pumped and bled and even tried gravity flow to get it to go, but ended up trailering it off to a brake specialist. They told me attaining flow was the problem. I would wonder whether one of those little handpump self bleeder kits is what we need here.... the kind that push fliud back UP the system from the Brake Bleeder Valve. I'm putting one of these on my 'to-d'o list once my physical health improvesand I get back to wrenching.

It appears that I have been fitted with non original parts. I'm now looking for factory replacements to proceed with. So much for believing I have a non- molested, original vehicle.

When I removed the standard factory Rear Swaybar from my 1981, I assumed the Bushing on the outer end was as per the SI catalogue's p/n 552518. What has bugged me about this is that my Avanti has 'Square Box' housings for these (under the Spring mounts) and not curved ones like SI Catalogue's p/n 1557476. Added to my curiosity was the addition to the bush of a piece of 1/4 "insertion rubber glued under the flat of the Bush. Altogether this arrangement just doesn't fit the 'Box. This doesn't strike me as something the factory would just 'make-do' because it's really shoddy, but by the same token, the square Box doesn't appear anywhere in the SI catalogue for up to 1985 Avantis. I'm looking at possibly making one out of solid rubber block that is a better fit, but I'd appreciate input on this topic, just the same.

Hi Daryl- You have not stated where the oil leaks from so I'd assume it's leaking from the following locations- Front Pump to Torque Converter nose Seal (original) Victor 49649 BU single lip (but double lip is good too) Extension Housing Seal (original) ‘Victor’ 49567 Timken equivalent 410059 Notoriously- the seal kit for the Selector Shaft & Manual Kickdown Shaft assy .... Kickdown Shaft Nitrile ‘O’ring (shaft) ID 3/8” OD 5/8” Section dia 1/8” Transmission case/shaft 'lip' seal for Manual Selector Shaft ID .750 OD 1 1/16” Width 3/16” Timken equivalent 240816 Sump Gasket and Strainer- as follows The vast majority of all these parts are for almost any 'Type 8 Warner Gear Small Iron Case' Transmission found on lots of cars as well as Studeys (Ford AMC Jaguar Jeep..) Almost any Transmisssion replacement parts businesses should be able to supply these. The strainer in the sump can usually be washed and blown clear for re-use, if you don't need to replace it. Powershift Transmissions have some different parts but I'm pretty sure the majority of those above are bog-standard. Any seals you remove should have a number on 'em and you could buy these from any good Bearing and Seal suppliers. Pics of these are on my blog http://studebakerflightomatic.blogspot.com/ Removal of the selector lever will require removal and re assembly of the detent ball & Spring that is in the case- DO see the Blog otherwise I'll leave you to find a better way of re assembling it without repeatedly firing it around the workshop ! Regards- Steve