Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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Bump:
How do I get the panels off of either side of the evaporator?
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Dang, it's not the right size. Thanks anyway.
I finally had some help holding the tape this morning and got much better dimensions, glass trim to glass trim: 16 13/16" x 35 1/2"
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Asheville, NC. But check the dimensions of the glass, there were a few different sizes through the years. Mine is 17" x 35.5", not 34.5 as I originally posted. I'll try and edit that post
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I thought I'd start pulling the trim panel to get to the expansion valve better while waiting to get the R12 evacuated. ... Now I have a new snag. Where I suspected I had screws holding the panel in, it seems more like a glob of metal, almost like it is soldered in place, which is justn plain silly. Nonetheless, What kind of fasteners hold the panels in, and how do I remove them ( 1980)?
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15 hours ago, pantera928 said:
You may have an expansion valve stuck closed. I try to achieve around 30 PSIG on the low side and 2.5 times the ambient temperature in degrees F on the high side so if it was was 70 degrees F, then 2.5 times 70 would be 175 PSIG. You are obviously a little low but even with those pressures, you should see some cooling.
It must be stuck then, as it has no cooling at all. Guess it's time for a 134A changeover.
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I'm still in need of the sunroof glass, some parts have broken out and now I have glass, duct tape and flex seal, but still have leaks. The glass only is 17" x 35.5". If I get the rest of the assembly too, that's OK, but prefer the glass only. Thanks!
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I fixed the fan switch and now the compressor runs as intended. Today we got to the low 70's so it was time to check pressures. Please note, I don't know much from a practical aspect of A/C systems.
The system is still R12 and at 1500 RPM showed about 4 on the low side and 145 on the high, so it's clear I am undercharged. Outlet temp was actually higher that ambient temp, maybe 80F or so. I've got dye in the system, and so far find no leaks. I don't know when it was last serviced. I'll look again tomorrow. ASSuming I find no leaks tomorrow, is the leak so small as to be negligable, and so what do I do? The professional/legal reason is to change compressor oil and recharge with 134A, or change the compressor (A6) and recharge, replacing the drier/accumulator of course. Maybe hoses too. Or in a less legal/professional manner, can I top it off, and with what?
PS, I will crosspost this on other sites so I get as many good and bad suggestions as possible!
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Fonts, schmonts... why they hell do they have to advertise that it's a clock, Pantera? That's enough to make me not want that, though maybe I could use my existing face on it.
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Great! what about the condensor? Did it need to be changed?
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And an aluminum A6 is 134A compatible I assume?
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I'm glad it is a simple as it looks, and no relay! Maybe today I can get it running enough to put the gauges on and see how much charge there is. There's something in the sight glass anyway.
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I've just started working on my sometimes operating A/C, but am a bit befuddled by what should be a simple wiring system on my 1980 with the GM A6 compressor.. Like no High or Low cut out switches, and sometimes power to the compressor, other times, none.
So where are the cut out switches, relays, and assorted components so that I can isolate my problem?
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Mine is OK, but not this nice. Have you priced it yet?
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Not yet. I had a boo boo with her and she's getting her right fender repaired at a local shop. I hope I can have her back soon!
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Trying to save frustration at the FLAPS. Which Chevy should I name to get the correct alternator, or did all 1980 350's using the same one?
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8 hours ago, Wasjunk said:
That is the orig. Nardi wheel that was in the car. I have modified it to resemble an original Avanti wheel.
What was involved? It's a mod I'd like to make
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How did you modify the steering wheel to fit? Or did you modify the existing one? It looks great!
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Thanks!
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I'm getting exhaust in the cabin, so lets start with the basics. This is Thea, a 1980 Avanti II. It has a nearly new stainless steel exhaust installed by Jon Myer before I bought the car from him. I can't hear any leaks, but my ears suck. The trunk seal looks OK, not pristine, but not badly cracked and no serious cracks or lost chunks. It seems to close correctly and fully. The exhaust tips extend past the lower valence as they should. If the windows are all closed and the vents open, no problem. I'm not sure about if the vents are closed. Windows down, all is OK, but some smell enters the cabin with either with any of the other glasses open or shut. If the windows are up and either the vent wings or rear vents glasses are open, I get exhaust inside.
Where do I start looking for this?
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18 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Your high beam indicator should be on your speedometer. It is blue on mine
OK, thanks, I'll need to change the bulb then
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I thought that was the high beam indicator. I don't have a working one, and assumed I need to get in there and change the bulb, so I will be interested in finding out what it really is.
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The Blaupunkt that is in there has noisy volume and balance controls and I wanted bluetooth, so like Pantera, I bought a Retrosound unit. In the middle of the night, it occurred to me that removing the top speaker grille might work. I don't think there is actually a speaker there since I have 2 in the kick panels and 2 on the rear shelf. Thanks for the confirmation Bez!
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My first Studebaker was a '62 GT Hawk. I stopped for gas and the old greasy guy came out of the garage bay and asked " Iz that one of them Valvos?" Oh lort.....
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What I thought would be a simple radio change tossed me a curve. The panel below the radio that extends from the steering column to the right door panel is riveted in. Before I drill out a bunch of rivets, is there an easier way to gain access for the swap?
Fuel gauge wires
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Can the glass on the later (1980) gauges be removed and cleaned similarly to the earlier ones? Mine are nasty and I'd like to switch to red bulbs anyway