Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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It looks like everyone has already mentioned what I was thinking, but if the ignition timing is retarded, it will run hotter. Same with a plugged exhaust. I don't think that either would heat so fast that you couldn't complete break-in though. Second, get an infrared temperature reader and see if it is really hot, or if it is a gauge issue. As an aside, my Champ had the wires to the gauge reversed, and within minutes of starting, the gauge would peg, but then soon drop. I never understood why it would act that way, but once the wires were in the correct place, it acted normally. My point being, don't rely on the gauge only. Third, I like the idea that the racing water pump may be designed for serpentine belts, thus runs backwards with conventional belts.
Keep us informed!
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Close Ron, but no cigar.
My post wasn't as clear as I had intended. The carb is off being cleaned and reassembled, but the fuel line had dripped at lest a quart before I saw it. I did jack up the front of the car and that fixed that, so it's not really the problem with starting, it's just that the fuel level was higher than the inlet to the carb.
The other question, (now separate from the dripping fuel line), is could the purge valve be causing my flooded starting conditions?
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New info: I received my carb kit from Quadrajetpower.com, and began dismantling the carb. The good news is that the carb is clean inside, has already had the throttle shafts bushed and the well plugs epoxied, so it appears to be remanufactured, though not recently based on the outside grime. Remember the engine ran well, idled well, accelerated well, no issues other than being flooded at start, and blocking the choke open did not help.
What is troubling, is that even with less than 1/2 a tank of gas, fuel keeps dripping out of the fuel line where it went into the carb. (I've not yet completed the carb, so the line is open, save a piece of towel to keep trash out). Best as I can measure, the carb is above the fuel level, though that can be tricky to figure. I loosened the fuel cap to see if pressure had built up, but no sound of air whooshing, and the fuel keeps dripping.
I'm starting to wonder if either the vapor canister is flooded or the purge valve is bad, causing that, and indirectly flooding the engine after sitting overnight.
What do you all think?
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The carb number on my 1980 350 is 17080204. It's not computer controlled, thank goodness. It should be perfect for your '81
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Thanks ronmanfredi and MFG. I hope to get the carb number and order the kit later this week, then I can deal with this. I really appreciate the insight!
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27 minutes ago, mfg said:
If your Q-Jet has a composite float, it could be starting to sink due to fuel saturation… I believe a carb overhaul with a new float thrown in is in order here.
When carb is apart, the well plugs at the bottom of float chamber should be checked, as fuel leakage past those plugs has always been a chronic problem with this type of carburetor.
Thanks, that makes sense. I also saw where the well plugs could be an issue, but the post discouraged JB Weld, or similar because heat deltas would cause the plugs to leak again. But no alternatives were given. Do you have an idea?
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Thea has 68,000 miles, and generally runs well. Cold starting, however, is an issue, as it's always flooded, even after a week of not driving. Why do I know it's flooded? because if you don't hold the throttle at least 1/2 open, or god forbid, pump the gas, it'll be a while before she finally fires and belches black smoke. Even so, it takes a few moments for all cylinders to fire and there is still some black smoke. Once she's cleared her throat, she runs perfect. Plugs are clean, too.
First, it's not the choke, as I've left it blocked open and on even chilly mornings, it did the same thing.
While a kit is a reasonable start, what areas should I pay special attention to?
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On 12/2/2024 at 7:57 PM, AG-R3 said:
late 70's early 80's Oldsmobile (Cutlass) have similar
Ah HA! a clue!
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Mine are NOT Recaro. They have an integrated headrest and no adjustability. I suspect GM or AMC.
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Mine is similar, however there was no indication of which wire went to each terminal ( they are unnumbered in both the diagram and on the switch) and I never got it to work again. I ended up using three of the wires on a toggle switch, and it functioned fine. I never did understand what the other wires were for.
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Looks great!
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And who made those seats?
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Sorry, I meant who supplied teh front seats? I can get a rear seat cover from SI or another vendor.
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These upholstery guys around here... they don't want to touch my car or want crazy prices... like $3500 for the back seat ONLY! And that quote, he didn't want to do, saying that they were AMC seats and you can get covers on line. I'm not convinced.
First, these 1980 seats don't look like any AMC seats that I recall, but I also don't really recognize them as anything familiar.
So who supplied the seats to Avanti?
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Has anyone *successfully* replaced the vent window division seal without removing the vent window assembly?
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I wish the photo links worked, maybe it's my machine, but I'd love some photos to help understand.
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19 hours ago, ronmanfredi said:
I changed all the lights on mine to Auxito 1156 - 1157 off Amazon and there isn't any static. I also used the United Pacific 90652 Electronic turn signal flasher WITH ground lead for the turn and emergency flaser. The ground lead is what makes the flasher work with led bulbs without the need to add resistors, etc. The flasher comes with a reversing adapter in case the fuse box is wired backwards, which my emergency flasher was. (a standard flasher doesn't care what wire is connected to which terminal)..
Thanks, Ron
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I'll double check the antenna, and the radio ground as well. Thanks!
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9 hours ago, Footer said:
Ron
I replaced my tail/brake lights with LEDs, even converted the backup lights to 1157s and replaced the front turn signals. No radio interference. I did have to put resistors on each side as the NAPA LED flasher didn’t blink. A fairly simple trial and error test might be to install a different pair of LEDs. MikeDo you recall what brand lights you used? Interestingly, these Holley bulbs work with the stock flasher!
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I bought some Holley Retrobright 1157 type LEDs to improve my rear visibility on braking and turning, but whether it's brakes or turn signals, the RFI over my radio is horrible. Interestingly, the stock mechanical flasher works just fine, and trying the electronic LED type made no difference.
JEGS suggested I buy a pack of ferrite chokes off of Amazon ($10 for a bag full) and that would fix it. I popped one on the antenna lead, no improvement. Since I had a bag full, I put a few more on, some with the cable looped around since there were various sizes in the bag. No dice. What the heck, I put them on the tail light power and grounds, nuh uh. Next I called Holley, and they want me to buy some LED load resistors.
So now, I have a LED type flasher and a bunch of chokes, and nothing is any better. Well, OK, but am I just continuing to throw money at the problem, or might this really be the fix?
(Note: I originally posted this on the SDC forums, but other than checking the radio ground, I've gotten no answers) -
My 1980 has a flare fitting. And I agree, you have to pull the carpet back to find the screws.
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No, it was just so foamy that the drains couldn't work. The water flowed out, the foam expanded and went everywhere!
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6 hours ago, SCPO-PD said:
Ron - Can you share a picture of the allen screws that you are speaking about? I need to pull out my glass and frame to try and reattach a fallen corner. Much Thanks!!
Which Allen heads? the ones at the wind deflector are on the piece of stainless trim just at the front of the glass. They are easy to see and access.
The other ones, on the hinge-like linkages at the rear would require me to plug the motor back in, nurse the glass back, try and get a nearly impossible angle photograph, and then nurse the glass back into place.Given the whole fiasco of my car's mechanism, I'm not willing to do that.
Also know that this applies only to the Skytop moon roof, not the earlier ASC sunroofs. The name for the Skytop is on the handle for the sun screen.
But best of luck to you!
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In a prior post I noted that I replaced the broken moon roof glass and weatherstripping. A garden hose test indicated all is well.
Well today the local drive through car wash was having a special, and since the paint is far from pristine, (and the water at the house is so hard it's like washing with gravel), I took Thea the Avanti for a true test. And the roof does not leak. Success!
However, I got a fine shower from both windows and better yet, the carpets got shampooed from the foam flowing in from both cowl vents! Foam everywhere! 2 inches deep! so I drove home at 70 MPH with the windows and back glass open, letting all the fun blow out everywhere. It must have been a sight. Parking in the sun to dry out, I noticed there was foam even coming out of the hog trough drains!
Thank goodness the hot wax at the car wash isn't the same as the ladies use, or I'd be bald everywhere!
Has anyone had their back glass tinted?
in Avanti Pub
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It seems that the amount of glass and the curves would make this difficult without seams and wrinkles, but it sure would be nice to reduce the heat gain through that thing! I'd need to remove the defroster (which has too many breaks to fix anyway) but can a tint shop do a decent job of it?