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Ron Dame

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Posts posted by Ron Dame

  1. As there are no instructions out there on the Sky Top moon roofs (starting in 1980) I'm documenting what I am going through just to replace the glass.

    Here is what I need help on: Dan Booth says to just spray some lube on the worm gear as best as you can, and you are done. I still have to pulse the motor just to move the mechanism  forward or backwards without the glass. Does anyone have any hints on how to get everything clean, lubed and moving? Or is the motor simply undersized?

    (PS, if someone has any idea how to remove the roll bar cover and headliner, I'll add it. Dan says EVERYTHING with the later moon roofs are done from above without removing those, but I still have this  issue of cleaning and lubing it all.)

  2. I was able to remove the glass without the headliner and roll bar cover being removed. It is rather simple. There are four Allen screws where the wind deflector attached to the glass. These come out. After cutting all of the silicone and butyl crap someone before me used, and with coaxing of the motor and some additional hand pressure, the glass slides up and forward. Then you have access behind the glass to two hinges, partly obscured by rubber. There are two more Allen head screws on each hinge that come out, and you lift it out, easy peasy!

    I just spoke with Dan at Nostalgic, and the original weather seals are NLA. He sells a different one that requires some modifications to both the car and seals, but it doesn't sound bad.

    This addresses my main problem, but doesn't answer have the headliner and roll bar covers come off. It seems to be totally installation different than the earlier Avantis, and I forgot to ask Dan.

  3. It's time to address the moon roof issue in my 1980. The glass is cracked and it has also been sealed closed, but of course it still leaks. (I do have a replacement glass if I do repair rather than remove the moon roof) The glass has NOT dropped down, so I'm hopeful that everything is still bonded in place and that rust isn't beyond repair. The sunshield is firmly stuck half open/closed, further hampering access.

    Though I thought I saw directions for removing the roll bar cover, headliner, and moon roof glass at one time, a search on this site, Nostalgic Motors site and Bob Johnstone's site has not turned up the now elusive instructions for removing these items.

    help please!

  4. I've got a similar issue to deal with this Spring: Mine has already been sealed shut, but the glass is cracked. I have the new glass and depending on condition of the mechanism, may resurrect the functionality of the sunroof... or not. I'm not sure if the mechanism works anymore. If it doesn't, that complicates removing the old glass. So I, too, am interested in how to proceed.

  5. Well, I found the offending ground, and it was the right front turn signal. I had only looked inside the housing and at the pigtail, ASSuming that the ground wire was directly at the socket, not on the outside of the casting.

    I had a minor fender=bender last year, and it appears the body shop lost the correct screw for the ground and used a long sheet metal screw instead... so long, that the wire was loose. Worse, it was a much larger diameter that needed and split the lug on the housing.

    For the short term, I found a shorter, similar thread screw and have things operational until I figure out a way to properly repair the lug or create a different ground. I'm thinking of trying a dab of Frost King defroster repair epoxy which is conductive, to repair the lug.

  6. With the headlights off, all lights work normally.

    With them on, there is current back feeding to the right signal indicator on the dash, and sometimes the right brake light works, sometimes it does not, but only when the headlights are on.

    I cleaned both front and rear light sockets on the right and used dielectric grease. The ground on the front was confirmed with almost no voltage drop. The back socket where it connects to the light body is clean and greased, though I don't think this is the primary ground, if any ground at all. I ran a temporary ground from the right light socket to the left (which acts normally) but this did not solve the issue. I've attempted to find the proper ground for the RR lamps, with no avail.

    What am I missing?


  7. LeoB and Silverstude, all I can say is that it works. and it's not much different than Dan Booth's solution, though I had not considered the bouncing and potential to break the hood, hence his use of the TP and shop rag.

    As far as safety, as stated, there is a positive pressure above the hood that keeps it from rising more than a couple of inches, yet it apparently offers enough air to flow out of the engine compartment that it works. For me anyway. I accidentally discovered this when I for got to latch the hood and saw the hood raise a bit on teh highway, but not much. And the engine never got overly warm that hot day.

  8. 11 hours ago, Bozman said:

    Thanks Ron,

    there’s lots of commercial places that will do the printing at a reasonable price, I don’t think I want to go into the printing business.😊


    I understand. I'm a Luddite that didn't know there were [laces that could print stuff for you.

  9. Much as I disdain the cupholder as a measure of quality, tell me more about yours! The rest of teh interior is fantastic as well!

    21 hours ago, plwindish said:

    Your seats look nice!  I had the carpet and entire interior along with seatbelts redone in my '76 over last Fall and Winter in a vinyl very similar to what was in the car but was getting very tired.






  10. 19 hours ago, AD said:


    I believe that this wire runs all the way to the front of the car and might ground somewhere behind the dashboard. On the wiring print it looks like it ties in with the ground for the fuel gauge. Have you tried running a jumper wire from the lamp socket to ground and seeing what happens? If you do this and things act normally perhaps consider just running a new ground wire from the lamp socket and attach it at one of the body mount bolts in the trunk. 

    I have tried grounding it to the other tail light, which works normally, but no change. Bez also indicates that the grounds end up  in that general location. I don't think I had this problem before I had some front paint work done, but will check my grounds there. The odd thing is that If I move the rear socket around, all is OK.. for a little while. And it only happens with teh headlights on.

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