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Hey Folks, New to the forum. I do not have an Avanti, although I wish I did. A very good friend has purchased a very nice 64 R1 auto. We used to have a Stude dealership in the early 60s in Mimico Ont. I’m helping him get the car ready to drive and enjoy. First thing I did was check the frame and Hog Trough. Very surprised at how nice the undercarriage is. I’ll be on here a lot asking questions, so please be kind and patient. My fist query is the frame. The welds look very poor, ya I figured back then it was welded by hand. In the pic you will see a “split”in the front clip, just ahead of the X. Just want to know if it is normal, or do we need to weld up the “split”. Thanks Tom

Well, it's done. Sort of. It does not leak, but it was quite a chore given other problems with the sunroof, primarily a motor that chooses to quit mid way, and the inability to push the rear of the roof up completely, despite cleaning and lubing the hinges at the rear. In the end, I decided I didn't like using the sunroof anyway, so got the glass situated and unplugged the motor. This is the end of my write-up of how to replace the weather seal!

Yes, correct.

This may help. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Psteer/valvehose.html

If your mechanic is familiar with the workings of older vehicles, especially the power steering systems used on similar year Ford Motor Company vehicles, he should not have any problem diagnosing and repairing the Studebaker Avanti power steering system…… Purchasing and supplying your guy with a reprint of the ‘63-‘64 Stude Avanti factory workshop manual would be a big help to him… Best of luck…. Ed

Paul, I believe what Dwight actually means is that a person can install a ‘63-‘64 Stude T-10 behind a ‘61-‘62 clutch housing….. but a ‘ 61-‘62 Stude T-10 cannot be installed behind a ‘63-‘64 clutch housing… and I agree with him!

To A0136…. Thanks much for posting the pics…. You have certainly made clearer what I was trying to get across! Best of luck with your ‘59!…Ed

I have become disabled so it now is impossible for me to work on the car. I have had the steering box and ram cylinder rebuilt and reinstalled but the power steering does not seem to work. I know there is a specific way to install the hoses but I cannot find this and I wonder if the shop did it wrong. I will be having the car worked on next week. Any information will help. Thank you.

If you drilled out the '61/'62 bellhousing as Ed suggests, you could use either an early T10 or the later T10. I guess that is "either direction".

So, obviously, one could go in one direction with this bellhousing swap, but not the other.

@JimM JimM, you messaged me about this parts manual, and I responded back to your message. Haven't heard anything back from you, do you still want it?

When I first saw this trivia question I thought it was a no brainer. The 61-62 and 63-64 ( or 56-64 ) bell housing / clutch housing have a different bolt pattern, part number and casting number so they wouldn’t interchange. So the answer was false. But even after 50+ years of owning and working on Studebaker and Avanti cars and Studebaker trucks I am still learning. I have both type of housings so I took some pictures. On the 61-62 housing I marked where the bolt holes would go to make that housing work for ether bolt pattern, my plan is to put the 61-62 housing in the 59 Lark for some spirited driving. I have 4 speeds with both pattern and different 1st gear ratio’s so with this new knowledge I will drill it for both bolt patterns. Well played mfg. Thank you Steve

Nice!

I have the McCulloch set up (Pulleys and bracket) with an SN Paxton on a 59 lark.

I run the McCulloch setup on my ‘55 President Speedster without the kickdown connected…. I down shift to second overdrive when I need more ZIP!!!

Interesting. Might be fun to try one on a Lark. Kick down would be an easy install but I guess you would need to plug the pressure limiting or over rev control hole.

The serial number is RQB-1582 which is a 1970. It was also converted from a chrome bumper to the later style bumpers. The factory didn't do the convertible conversion..................read part of this Turning Wheels article that I've posted below. The full article is here on Bob Johnstone's site: http://studebaker-info.org/AOAI/AOAI92/1985ConvProto.html This car for sale is the Doyne prototype:

But the car is a 1985, not 1970 model. I don't think the Avanti factory worked on that prototype for 15 years before releasing it. --Dwight

The Avanti factory. That's why it's called a prototype.

Would disagree here with “ false”…. The two units directly interchange… the installation of a kickdown switch for the Lark is a good, but not mandatory, idea!

Although it appears that way, the supercharger pullies on both the ‘VS’ and the ‘SN’ units both run in the same plane.

You’ve ‘hit’ the eight key pieces, but need to leave out the ball driver, scroll, and impeller.

Paul you are correct with EIGHT… however, you need to include the output shaft as a definitive part of the assembly, whereas the ball driver is not.

A driver, five balls, output bearing, two outer races, maybe the scroll housing and impeller.

Also the pulley is displaced further from the Main body than the Paxton so the belts wouldn’t line up..