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Do you still have the seats and where are they located? Thanks

The explanation by SilverStude above is the instruction from Studebaker International. So in your latest pic, the alignment of the middle example would seemingly be correct, however in the interest of having the best anchor to the lid, the example farthest from the lens would be optimal. Ironically, I just checked my car, where the seals are about 10 years old and what I have is totally different, in that the seal is a rectangular tube with rounded edges and not having an opening and it adheres to the main body of the lid and not to the extended, thin section that hides the seal itself

So, reviving this topic, the pictures that were uploaded before aren’t coming through now in April 2026. when I got my 1976 Avanti there was no weatherstrip on the trunk lid. so I purchased and installed (Fail), I pulled it all off and researched. I came up with no pictures of what is correct. i took a picture of 3 orientations along the bottom (latch side) of the lid. Can anyone confirm which orientation of the rubber? the trunk lid is upside down in the photo(s).

I had a 400 ci with 400 turbo in a Chev Vega.. That was a thrill ride.. Imagine this one will run similar but a bit more body weight.

An Avanti ll equipped with the 400 engine can easily outrun a stock R2 equipped Stude Avanti up to about 70 mph.

The Avanti factory had to reinforce the front crossmember due to extreme low end torque of the 400 engine. Retrofit kits were also made available.

All the 400’s were backed up with Turbo 400 trannys… One of the very best period transmissions.

Thank You Sir... How about a turbo 400 Tranny? I think I bought a gem.. I'm a little concerned in starting a engine that hasn't run for a number of years.. Carb is original and all looks clean.. I thought of some Marvel Mysery Oil in the cyls. but the plugs are in a very tight position. Wondering if starting it dry will be ok. Gonna drain the fuel and run new thru a few inline clear filters to see what the tank send up. The car is from Calif.. no corrosion of significance.. Any other suggestions?

Yes.

To answer You Richard. I just got the car in yesterday and it's a cosmetic mess on the outside, Interior looks solid and pretty good. The car hasn't been run for a few years so all other questions about running condition are currently unknown. The car shows 10,000 miles and the pedals appear to agree due to no wear.... But things are in rough but do-able condition. Clean up starts today and starting the engine... soon. Photos are in the ''For Sale"" section.

Did Avanti offer a 400 c.i. small block in 1973?

Thanks Richart. I'll refer You to the Trivia section, since I had questions about that 400 ci. I'll try to answer the questions there.

Did Avanti offer a 400 c.i. small block in 1973?

It's a little out of category as I see it, but hey... Go for it.

When I had my '02 Avanti I received a Best Foreign Car award as it fit in no other category for some reason.

The Studebaker V-8 has a multi-piece oil pan gasket(s)...something like a dozen separate pieces. It's very common for any of them to shrink and leave an opening for oil to leak from. The rear main seal is a problem area as well with some engines.

Thanks. I’m sending it tomorrow.

Well I guess this says we can participate in other clubs. . .like the Mustang Clubs. . .yay!

That particular engine and transmission may have been stock. Did you receive any paperwork that might tell you the history of the engine or transmission (like rebuilds)? Others, more knowledgeable than I can advise, but I don’t remember the 400 turbo tranny being used in an Avanti. It had a substantially bigger housing than the 350 turbo and could withstand a lot of power. It is a good stout transmission. It was usually used in trucks, and found a following in drag racing cars. Please tell us more about the car - are the cosmetics good? Brakes, suspension, electrical? Does it still have a carb setup? The 73 has been known to be a very well built car and as mentioned, has the Studebaker frame and King Pin steering setup. You’ll want an old school mechanic for any repairs. Maybe you can post a few pictures? Hope you enjoy it.

I bought a R2 with a freshly rebuilt engine. It has to areas where it's just leaking a little and that is at the oil pan front and rear neoprene seals. I'm sure they were put on dry and clean without any other sealant. I'm planning on pulling the pan soon to replace the gaskets/seals and will fix the problem.

She arrived this Morning... Now She's home and I'll start going thru it.. Again, Thanks 64Avanti .

Studebaker’s like to mark their territory!

Drain plug would make sense on mine since it's in the general area and below oil level, but it is very tight and has a copper washer. I'll give it another look though

Thanks a lot ! Merci beaucoup 😉

I have been told that one way to see the source of a leak is to wash the potential leak area well and when it is dry, spread some powder (talcum powder) over the area. This will reveal the location of the leak. I have not tried this yet, but I plan to do so. I just noticed the same in my garage and it was the the drain plug.