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Frame on my driver's side window has separated It appears That there is a screw that anchors the right side of the frame top to the back side piece. It looks like the screw Has nothing left to anchor into and the inside rubber piece or wherever it is supposed to anchor is damaged. Is there anyway to effect a repair? Are there replacement vent window assemblies out there? I don't see any online but plan on contacting Dan booth tomorrow Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you

I just installed the fan switch for my A/C. The switch is Murray 35701 and works good. Now the Temp gauge, the Tach, and the Fuel gauge does not work. Help. Does anyone have any suggestions on what went wrong because I installed the new gauge? Dan Williams 1972 RQB 1882

Dan, try this switch https://www.amazon.com/UAC-SW-6490C-C-Thermostat/dp/B003R43E0O/ref=sr_1_28?crid=2ENEVV7QDFNRS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GPhk8TpmjpUPixr0JRLAZDDz-AdgnD2NrbLr3Bc6KdZaedltDLCa1V0PoVWm522QMIwZarBw9lonrtfdMWTHVP3OLUCBu0QjCqCVkazbrRhLx3XKBVyvMmVRXHjFPpxdQEkevzZzDw33ttrSj8GbQitJuDUoDu-49Q054qiWbG9PHbTnj4NhsnvVMjAU74Jz.lwWRzcvlO_fi4-ptSjRh8smEh4nB38az3gsCHQqLMcc&dib_tag=se&keywords=automotive+A%2FC+switches&qid=1746385165&sprefix=automotive+a%2Fc+switches%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-28&xpid=fV4ajBeSHMimL Then please let me know which wire you put on which terminal. Tom

I received part no.3004c but it does not have a shaft on it to put the knob so the coolant flow can be adjusted. What is the correct part no. Dan

Have to give you a big NO on that one….Sorry!

I'm guessing numero uno, Chrysler.

Thanks. While my horn still works, I will rebuild the connection. The wire is completely missing between the two connection points.

That wire gives the horn button a good ground to chassis… Although your horn may work without it, it really should be there.. I’d re-connect it.

i just noticed that my 84 Avanti has 2 stubs of wires on either side of a rubber isolator that separates the shaft from the steering box. I am guessing that at one time there was a wire connection there but have no idea when/how it broke or even the importance of it. Anyone have any ideas/reasons comments?

Sorry…. Not Poncho!!

I want to say Pontiac, unless I'm wrong.....

Trying to convert my 63 switches to these newer switches and all the wiring is gone from the car so I a recreating this from scratch. Do you know which terminal on each switch goes to which wire? I believe for the fan switch the B terminal is Power In (from the battery), the M terminal is Power Out (to the fan motor) and the O terminal is ground. The temperature switch terminals are labeled O and L. I believe one of these goes to the compressor and the other goes to the fan switch but I don't know which is which. Thanks, Tom

Yes indeed. She likes to go for rides but I haven’t convinced her that it is “fun” to sit out at a car show all day in the hot sun!

Thanks for the info and good luck with the rest of your build!

It has heat capability, but I'm sticking with the OEM heater for now. Should the core leak or motor quit, it will be easy to switch over. No wiring diagram with it but the Amazon listing had all that info posted. Pretty simple: red wire (fused) to power, green wire to compressor, black to ground.

It's nice when a marriage works out! 😍

Thank you again

Thanks for the information. Are you using this for both Heat and Cool or just Cool? Did it come with a wiring diagram to help with the install? Tom

You can try this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UAC-SW3004C They are also on Amazon

Thank you. Do you have a source for the temperature switch

http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Aircon/murray35701.jpg

Is there a source for the fan switch? Either the oem reostat resistor type fan switch or the current 3 speed switch would be ok. Dan Williams 1972 RQ-B 1882

I'm in the process of removing the "factory" air from my '63 Avanti R1 (personally I think most were dealer installed). So far I have the evaporator out and am taking the compressor and condenser out next week. Here's what I know about the system: 1) It was serviced in 2005 (documented) and recharged with R134. I assume it was converted at that time or earlier. However, its does not have R134 charging ports, so they must have done it through the old type ports. 2) The clutch does work. I applied power to it for a few seconds and the York compressor turned and pumped. The system then held pressure. The car had sat in a garage unused for the last 20 years and the system did leak down over that time. I did not try to charge it. 3) The blower motor is hard to turn and will need rebuilding or replacing. Bob Ziff , Avantiparts.biz apparently has them,, saw a post from someone who had bought one. 4) Hoses look good but are at least 20 years old. 5) Comes with the aluminum plate, "Studebaker AIr Conditioning" and charge info that would have been mounted somewhere under the hood (I assume). The tag was in my glovebox. I'll sell the entire system for $1200 plus shipping . If no one wants the whole system, I'll start selling it piecemeal. I'll post more photos here as I remove parts.

This is the particular unit, however, you can find it for various prices on both Ebay and Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM8P3RMF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title It is basically the same unit you would buy from Vintage Air for say $450 to put factory type A/C in your street rod , way up under the dash, and run hoses to the vents. I just removed the front faceplate where the hoses attach. You then drill a hole in your dash for each control. I just drilled out the holes in the stock faceplate to fit the controls. I also have a compressor and condenser/drier on the way and so far have a total of about $330 in the system. Of course at that price I'm dealing with Chinese components, which is why I check out reviews first. I'll still need some misc parts like custom hoses, which I'll probably have made up by a shop in Nashville that specializes in that. Vintage air probably gets $2200 for a similar setup. I imagine the old parts will sell for enough to easily cover my conversion, and I won't have to find surplus R12 at $40 a can!

This is great, I am wondering which evaporator unit you went with. You are right there are so many to choose from out there. I am also considering getting a modern evaporator unit for my build. Thanks, Tom