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I assume that the reason R2s didn't have carb enclosures is that it was cheaper to seal the carb. Plus, accessing the carb is a bit more difficult with the enclosure. But, they impress people so much that a fellow once tried to buy the enclosure on my R3. --Dwight

I’ve always thought that Studebaker should have equipped all their R2 equipped vehicles with a carb pressure box (as all ‘57-‘58 Golden Hawks were equipped) Although current owners carefully maintain the factory pressurized carb, back in the day, when many used these vehicles for everyday transportation and hoods weren’t lifted very often, gasoline leaks were somewhat common!

For mechanical work, find a mechanic who understands old cars in general. Go to a local car show and talk to someone with a 50's car. Anyone who understands 50's cars can understand an Avanti, because underneath, it's basically a '53. And the engine is very similar to early 50's Caddy and Olds motors.

Thanks the gauges say its charging its not on when its running just when shut off and does not go out had to disconect the battery glad car runs when ground cable is removed so I don't think its the alternater.

For some other ideas, here is a link for 81 Camaro. Should be similar for 81 Avanti. https://www.google.com/search?q=check+engine+light+ignition+switch+off+81+camaro&sca_esv=cc0212b912e0ef78&ei=3ql-afOrGfKekvQPiaCbUQ&oq=check+engine+light+ignition+switch+off+81&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiljaGVjayBlbmdpbmUgbGlnaHQgaWduaXRpb24gc3dpdGNoIG9mZiA4MSoCCAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIIEAAYgAQYogRIhSdQlgpYsBNwAXgBkAEAmAHcAaABnwSqAQUwLjIuMbgBAcgBAPgBAZgCBKACtQTCAgoQABiwAxjWBBhHwgIFECEYqwLCAgUQIRifBZgDAIgGAZAGCJIHBTEuMi4xoAexErIHBTAuMi4xuAeuBMIHBTAuMS4zyAcMgAgA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#lfId=ChxjMe

I have seen alternator warning lights come on dimly after ignition switch is off if the diodes are bad. Could the alternator be wired into the check engine light?

The check engine light comes on after you turn the engine off … keys out of ignition switch?

Hi I'm new to the association I have an 81 and my engine light comes on after I turn off the car any ideas. Thanks

One comment: These wheels are made of thinner steel than modern wheels and can be bent by a modern tire mount/dismount machine. I had it happen once. Of course, once they are bent they are ruined. --Dwight

Understood. Thanks for providing photos of the invoices. I had a similar experience with the vendor that sends out the printed invoice. Haven’t ordered from the vendor that uses the hand written one. Both were easy to identify. While I won’t say that I’d never order from either of them, or the other one that sent unacceptable parts, those 3 are now the last 3 that will be given an opportunity to earn my business. As fate would have it, those 3 are the closest to my location in Michigan. However, I’ve received parts in a more timely fashion from Arizona and Florida.

Good point. I would think that one might be able to hang the capscrews with just the heads in the solution, but would have to try it to find out. --Dwight

Dwight, Can you plate just the heads. I don't think you would want to plate the threads. Could cause binding I would think.

Bob. Don't want to bad mouth anyone directly but you have the states correct. When I called about the dried-up crumbling seals, the answer I got was There NOS. just got from a different seller, a pinion seal $90 sealing lip isn't close to orig. one. A rear diff gasket that is so old and shrunk I threw it away, same seller. Just received today from another seller an exhaust set from flange gaskets to hangers and clamps. Can't use the clamps as they won't fit the original hanger holes. The L brackets to the pipes are so thin, I wouldn't even use them and the rubber hangers are so bad, they weren't even cut from the same thickness part of a tire and have cracks in them.

Eastwood has a small electroplating system, for something like $150. A lot of small things under the hood of an Avanti, like these screws, would benefit from this plating. --Dwight

I think I’d put two extra screws to hold rear cover in place, soak actual screws in paint stripper to clean them down to bare steel… then hit them with a self etching primer for good adhesion … then spray them silver and install on freshly painted supercharger…. Nice detail!

I believe that Dr. Lamberti had a special Gold color painted on his 1964 Avanti, and that is possibly the one special.

Have an 80 Avanti with a Skytop. It leaked and didn't work so the po silicone sealed it shut. For now at least I'm just going to leave it, but it has no inside slider --that aluminum panel you can slide from back to front to shade the sun. Can anyone out there provide me with the exact dimensions of one ? There machine shop said he'll make me one but don't want to guess on the dimensions. Thanks!

I guess I could paint the blower, then replace the capscrews one at a time with unpainted ones. I agree that unpainted ones look better.

I hadn't heard of coated rotors until recently, but I think they are a good improvement, both for function & appearance. I assume that the coated rotors & calipers will rust eventually (like everything under the car), but at least that will be delayed & reduced. I have repro Halibrands on my Studes, so appearance matters there. All of my modern cars have see-thru aluminum wheels, so the rotors & calipers are visible. The Olds is a 2003 Aurora Final 500, and although it's a backup driver at this point, it has sentimental value too. All the mechanic said was that there was rust on the inner surface of the rotor. I assume that means rust on the wiped surface, which likely means that either: 1) the car isn't driven enough & lives outside (true), or 2) the caliper is sticking and not pressing hard enough on the rotor. It's a one-cylinder, sliding caliper, so either the piston is sticking or the sliding mechanism is sticking, or 3) both. One other possibility, and I have seen this on Studebaker rotors, is rust on the periphery (& the hub side) of the rotor advancing so far that it "rounds off" the inner & outer edges of the pads. Technically, at least, that would change the coefficient of friction a little bit (between the rotor & pad) because iron oxide is harder than iron (or steel). I used to laborously chip off that rust buildup on my Stude rotors with a chisel. --Dwight

Would you care to share which supplier sent the dried out, rusty parts? I’ve recently ordered from 5 different suppliers in Indiana, Arizona, Florida, Michigan and Massachusetts plus a few miscellaneous items from the local NAPA. One sent unacceptable rusty components (brake discs) that were returned for a refund, less shipping and a 15% restocking fee. Another sent worn, corroded parts (control arm bushings) and incorrect parts (stabilizer bushings). So far I’m just eating the cost of those parts. Ordered from another supplier and the parts are new and correct. In fact the stabilizer bushings are marked USA.

Dwight, if you’re referring to the screws which retain the rear scroll cover to the scroll housing, they were definitely painted, along with the rest of the blower, as a complete assembly… however, leaving them unpainted or cad plated sure looks nice!!

Dwight, I will assume the Olds is not a show car but a daily driver. My car will not be out in inclement weather and it's in a climate controlled building. Coated rotors still rust. I have them on my ML550, Mini, Escalade, MDX, 2500HD and a Suburban. Calipers stay nice, but rotor faces still rust. If I drove them daily rust probably wouldn't build up. Once they get rust on them, they don't clean up real nice and they chew up the pads. Did your car fail for the rotor faces, as I can't see the rotor hubs failing as every car out there would fail.

"Talked with HR&B today. Turns out that only Studes with the master under the floor need the valving not the Avanti. And no problems clearing my Halibrands. Ordered the kit today." More information that should be shared with all. One thing I will add: One might want to ensure that the rotors and calipers are "coated." After having my Olds flunk inspection due to rust on a 2yo rotor I'll never again buy uncoated rotors or calipers. I paint those on my Studebakers, but the factory coating is probably better and painting them is a hassle. So, if Turner's & HR&B's full kits don't include coated rotors & calipers then one might think about buying their basic kit & buying the rotors & calipers at NAPA, or other FLAPS. --Dwight

Good job! Great! Now I can catch up on my sleep. Thanks. --Dwight

Talked with HR&B today. Turns out that only Studes with the master under the floor need the valving not the Avanti. And no problems clearing my Halibrands. Ordered the kit today. Thanks for the suggestions! Ordered a set of U joints and the rubber seals behind the door interior handles from one of the big parts suppliers and they arrived yesterday. Oh my God, how can someone with any morals send something out that made my original ones look new compared. The pitting on the caps is so bad, you could never press them in. One was wrapped in white paper packing and it spilled brown powder (rust) all over my counter top. The whole thing was nothing but powdered rust. and $75 ea. The seals literally fell apart in my hands. Cracked and powdered. My originals that have been in the weather since 1963 are so much better. Makes me sick.