ron@crall.com Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 Got another curve this weekend while re-building a 71 that I got as a project car a few months ago. The drive shaft that came with it is OK length and fits the trans, however, it uses internal locking u-joints that won't fit the differential yoke. Anyone got a drive shaft or an other solution?
Gunslinger Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 Go to a speed shop and have them set you up with an aluminum drive shaft. I did that and it works great...less rotating mass so less stress on the engine...better performance and the car weighs less. It cost about $100 more (back about 2006 or so) than a standard driveshaft and I consider it money well spent.
Avanti83 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 Gunslinger has the best solution if you want to spend the money and I would if I hadn't got a great deal on a PST steel one locally so I used it.Otherwise just take it to a drive line shop and they will replace the rear yoke on the drive shaft to match the diffy yoke.
ron@crall.com Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Posted November 2, 2015 Don't live in Silicon Valley anymore. Speed shop in Maine? We have Palmer Spring in Portland. They can fix your buggy wicked good!
ron@crall.com Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Posted November 2, 2015 I'll pull the diffy yoke and see if they can match it to the drive shaft. Don't mind having the beefier u-joints.
mfg Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 Ron, any good old Maine welding shop can grind down the weld at the rear of your driveshaft and knock the yoke out of the tube....then, if you have access to another Stude driveshaft of the correct tube diameter, the same thing can be done to that shaft and its yoke installed and welded into your original driveshaft....If the new yoke is installed in the same relative position as the old one, this mod should not effect the driveshaft's balance....Ed
ron@crall.com Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Posted November 4, 2015 The driveshaft that I got is bigger around than the original. Seems that getting a new yoke for a dana 44 should not be to hard, but spent a lot of time yesterday trying to get the nut off of the existing yoke. Try again today.
Avanti83 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 Caution, before you remove the nut, mark it's position and return it to that mark. I use two options to turn the nut as it is tightened to about 170 lb-ft. First, put a large pipe wrench on the yoke to hold the nut from turning, that will jam against the under carriage and stop turning, then it's either an air gun or cheater on a socket wrench/breaker bar to turn it. Generally they come off pretty easily with enough leverage. Bob
ron@crall.com Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Posted November 7, 2015 Driveshaft Specialist of Texas http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20Measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html is sending me a new yoke. Got my fingers crossed. I called them up and they were immediately able to determin the correct yoke to solve the problem, however; got a call a few hours later and was advised that the needed yoke was a rare Dodge performance part and it could not be found anywhere. Most yoke's have tabs that hold the u-joint in place, but this drive shaft uses u-joints that are positioned by 'C' clips inserted inside the yoke. They were able to find a yoke for a Ford 4x4 that can retain the u-joint with tabs and u-bolts like the original one and should be a bolt in replacement. I'll report back in a week.
Avanti83 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Posted November 7, 2015 Driveshaft Specialist of Texas http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20Measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html is sending me a new yoke. Got my fingers crossed. I called them up and they were immediately able to determin the correct yoke to solve the problem, however; got a call a few hours later and was advised that the needed yoke was a rare Dodge performance part and it could not be found anywhere. Most yoke's have tabs that hold the u-joint in place, but this drive shaft uses u-joints that are positioned by 'C' clips inserted inside the yoke. They were able to find a yoke for a Ford 4x4 that can retain the u-joint with tabs and u-bolts like the original one and should be a bolt in replacement. I'll report back in a week. Interesting post. I used a 1980 Camaro Drive Shaft to mockup my T56 installation in my 74 Avanti. It has the clips and fitted directly into the yoke on my Dana 44 rear axle and the front yoke even fit into the T56 tailshaft. IIRC, this setup is pretty standard on GM cars of the era. The whole thing cost me $20 at a local yard. If it's not to late, it would probably be much more cost effective and easier to just get a drive shaft from on of these cars and have the length modified. Just not sure why one would need a rare Mopar piece unless the drive shaft was larger in diameter but just getting the whole thing from a wrecking yard should take care of that issue. Bob
ron@crall.com Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Posted November 12, 2015 Driveshaft Specialist came through. The new yoke mates up to the drive shaft using the u-bolt and tab attachment instead of the inside c-clips. These are go-to guys if you have an issue.
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