Wavy Body Panels

[64studeavanti]

Prepping a 64 for paint. Working on the roof as that is the 'flattest' panel. I am surprised at how wavy it is.

I stripped it down to original primer using razor blades. I then used a long board to remove the primer so I would not create any new waves. Several low spots are identified using the original primer as a guide coat. In order to get the roof straight, I had to skim coat the entire surface. 

Are the waves the way the car came from the factory? I have nothing to gauge this as I have never worked on an Avanti or other fiberglass car. If a metal car was that wavy, I would do more metal work.

The car did have at least 2 repaints based on the layers I stripped off.

FWIW, I am using a 50-50 mix of Rage Ultra and Rage Ultra Extra to extend work times. It does have longer work time, and of course, longer cure time. 

[psdenno]

Fiberglass cars can be "wavy" and require a little filler in some areas to make them look as straight as panels on a metal bodied car.  It's all part of the charm of owning a fiberglass car whether it's an Avanti or a Corvette.

Edited Saturday at 06:16 PM by psdenno

[mfg]

I agree with psdenno… and I’d like to add that to some folks, a Stude Avanti with ‘dead straight’ body panels might be considered ‘over restored’ !!

[Gunslinger]

Very true...wavy body panels is more the norm on fiberglass bodies cars.  When the '70 I owned was redone the body shop went above and beyond (I paid for it) and made sure the body was so smooth that people at cars shows later couldn't believe it was fiberglass due to its smoothness.  The body shop was proud of the car since its presence there sold additional restoration work for them.  

[64studeavanti]

As one of the Corvette Forum posters stated, "I will keep working it until my give a s... bucket is empty".

I do have a deadline.  It is scheduled in the paint shop the middle of April. If I miss that date, it will be several months before I can get another. 

I still have to complete body work, assemble the body (doors, hood, trunk), mount it back on the frame, prime, and block sand.

Wish me lots of luck!

This car was quite a mess. It supposedly had a "professional" paint job when I bought it 20 years ago. The driver door had a new skin over a destroyed frame. The hood had a hole cut in it that was improperly patched. The hood brace was installed on the driver side, the firewall was a disaster, evidence of lots of poor work done to the front fender, etc.

I was able to source a different door and hood. and have been able to repair most of the shoddy body work.

 

Edited Saturday at 09:55 PM by 64studeavanti

[mfg]

3 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:

As one of the Corvette Forum posters stated, "I will keep working it until my give a s... bucket is empty".

I do have a deadline.  It is scheduled in the paint shop the middle of April. If I miss that date, it will be several months before I can get another. 

I still have to complete body work, assemble the body (doors, hood, trunk), mount it back on the frame, prime, and block sand.

Wish me lots of luck!

This car was quite a mess. It supposedly had a "professional" paint job when I bought it 20 years ago. The driver door had a new skin over a destroyed frame. The hood had a hole cut in it that was improperly patched. The hood brace was installed on the driver side, the firewall was a disaster, evidence of lots of poor work done to the front fender, etc.

I was able to source a different door and hood. and have been able to repair most of the shoddy body work.

 

Wow! … you have about 4 1/2 weeks.. Any chance of getting some assistance?

[64studeavanti]

I figure I have about three weeks to get it into primer. I should have a couple of weeks to finish block sand.

I will have help mounting the body. Mounting the body, hanging the doors, hood and trunk lid should only take a day or two.

The heavy body work is done, all I need to do is skim and true up the filler. The Ultra Extra helps quite a bit as it gives me a much longer work time and sands very easily.

Doors, hood and trunk lid are in pretty good shape, at least according to the guide coat. I plan on doing a "scuff and puff", no block sanding, in the engine bay and trunk as well as the back side of the hood and trunk lid.

[mfg]

34 minutes ago, 64studeavanti said:

I figure I have about three weeks to get it into primer. I should have a couple of weeks to finish block sand.

I will have help mounting the body. Mounting the body, hanging the doors, hood and trunk lid should only take a day or two.

The heavy body work is done, all I need to do is skim and true up the filler. The Ultra Extra helps quite a bit as it gives me a much longer work time and sands very easily.

Doors, hood and trunk lid are in pretty good shape, at least according to the guide coat. I plan on doing a "scuff and puff", no block sanding, in the engine bay and trunk as well as the back side of the hood and trunk lid.

A lot of work but ultimately we’ll worth it I think!

There’s something very special, after the fact, to know that you did it yourself!!

[64studeavanti]

This is the first fiberglass car I have prepped for paint. On metal cars, I can fix most of the problems with a hammer and dolly, shrink, or stretch as needed. On this car, all I can do is add more filler to straighten the panels. When I redid the bad body work, I used resin, mat, and kitty hair so those areas are structurally sound.

[64AvantiR2]

I just recently finished exactly what you're describing to my gold 1964 R2. I spent 55 years in the body shop industry, in all types of shops and positions. When I purchased my Avanti 2 years ago I could see a build-up of multiple paint jobs done without the benefit of stripping. Having painted many dozens of fiberglass cars in my history, this didn't faze me. Was I in for a ride!  I stripped off 1 top layer of base coat/clear, 1 acrylic enamel layer, and finally the original lacquer layer. What a mess! The gel coat was intact and in pretty fair condition. I achieved all my lines and gaps with a few hair cuts here and there. Smoothed out some old bodywork and sanded the entire body with 180 grit DA paper. I then covered all exterior panels wit 3 coats of Slicksand Sprayable Polyester Filler to seal everything up. Lightly sanded this filler with 240 grit DA then primed everything with 3 coats high build Euro catalyzed primer. Ready for blocking. This is where some experience comes in. A black powder guide coat was applied. I used the whole kit of various rubber sanding blocks on this car due to its many  cavities, peaks, niches, and lines. I primarily used the 6" and 12" flat blocks and the round tubes. The guide coat will tell you when the panel has high and low spots. I did NOT sand through the primer to the gel coat. I slopped blocking when I hit the polyester and added more primer when necessary. Did I mention that ALL the glass and exterior trim with lamps had to come out? I used mostly 180 grit on the blocks. An Avanti's body panels are not meant to be completely flat anywhere. The best you can do is to follow the natural humps, curves, and bulges without flattening them out, just removing the small "waves". A final double coat of Euro prime and a light water sanding with 600 grit and I was ready for the paint shop! Heck yes, it was a lot of work and took over 100 hours just for this prep for paint. The painter then applied his preference in sealer, 3 coats of base color, and 3 coats of clear. I took the car home ,water block sanded the clear up to 3000 grit, and buffed with 3M Step 1 and Step 2. WOW! Can't  wait to see it in wax. Your "waves and ripples" will depend on your primer block sanding expertise with a guide coat. That's why the pros get the big bucks. My shop estimates were all between $15,000.00 and $20,000.  As you know, there's a lot involved. Just saying.

[64studeavanti]

Been working on this car off and on for 5 years. Body is bare and on rotisserie. Glass, trim, interior etc has been removed.

Frame has been media blasted and painted. Engine, transmission, and suspension have been rebuilt. All parts are NOS or excellent used. Hog troughs have been replaced. The undercoat on the body was removed and fresh was reapplied. 

Hopefully, this is the last push to get it in color and start the reassembly. 

The plan is to wind up with a brand new 60 year old car!

Agreed on the powder guide coat. Works much better than the spray.

[mfg]

Whew!….I’m exhausted just thinking about all that work… Sherwood Egbert and Raymond Loewy would have been very proud of you!

Hopefully, we will see photos of the eventual finished product!