Hood pins

[CaleBitz23]

Need thoughts on how one would go about installing hood pins on an  '83 

 

 

[wildfelr]

RQB 3263 .... A SINGLE WORD OF ADVICE ..... DON'T.....

[Geoff]

I am contemplating installing hood pins on my build. I prefer the AeroCatch design, as they offer flush or surface mount, and either are available in locking or non-locking. https://aerocatch.com/

There's also the original design, a metal dowel protruding through a hole in the hood, with a metal disc fastened atop the hood, all secured with a clevis pin, linch pin, or wire lock pin.

The most difficult part I see is: how does one anchor the dowel pin? It needs a strong support system to hold it vertical and remain stable. One thought I had was to convert/repurpose some of the existing hood latch mounting hardware on the body for support.

[WayneC]

Out of curiosity, why do you want to do that?

I always think of hood pins as a precaution for race cars with a front-lifting hood to ensure against the hood flying open and blinding the driver and/or breaking the windscreen during a race. They also allow the race car to shed the weight of the catches and the cabling and handle mechanism to actuate them. Not an issue on an Avanti.

So what is your purpose?

[plwindish]

Other than appearance, what function would they serve on an Avanti?  During the Spring of 1970, I was driving my '67 Chevelle SS396 to my student teaching assignment and had the front opening hood pop up on me and completely obscure the windshield, luckily I wasn't going fast enough to seriously damage the hood or windshield. Something like that would never happen on a rear opening hood.

[Geoff]

In my case I'm striving for a visual homage to the Mid-Ohio Avanti GT and hood pins fit the motif. The 1985 I'm starting with is missing a lot, it's a basket case, and I'm working with a clean slate.

[Ron Dame]

Not so much an issue on my '80, but on my '63 R2, if it would start getting warm, I'd pop the hood latch, even at speed, and it would let more air move and cool it right off.

[wildfelr]

RQB3263/81/305 .... OK POPPING THE HOOD TO LET HOT AIR OUT IS A GOOD IDEA ESPECIALL IF YOU  ARE RUNNING HIGHER HP THAN MY 305....

SO WHAT I DO IS IN APRIL +- I REMOVE THE FOUR LATCH BOLTS  AND PLACE 3/4 INCH ALUMINUM SPACERS UNDER THE LATCHES AT EACH OF THE 4 LATCH BOLT POSITIONS.... THE HOOD  WILL LATCH NORMALLY AND SECURLY ....THE HOOD WILL RIDE UP 3/4 INCH GIVING HEAT ANOTHER PATH TO EXIT.....THIS ONLY REQUIRES  4 BOLTS 3/4 INCH LONGER THAN ORIGINAL  AND 10 MINUTES EACH WAY....... SO ABOUT NOVEMBER  ( IN FLORIDA)  I REVERSE THE SPACERS/BOLTS FOR OUR WINTER  (PUT THE SPACERS ON TOP OF THE LATCH REINSTALL THE LONGER BOLTS THRU THE SPACERS TILL SPRING TIME..... WORKS FOR ME ON RQB3263 FOR MANY SEASONS ..... BILL IN FLORIDA

P.S.     FORGET THE PINS

[wildfelr]

RQB3263/81/305   PIC FOR CLARIFICATION...... BILL

[Geoff]

For heat management and aerodynamics I have far larger ideas.

I want to implement a Cobra Daytona Coupe "waterfall styled" air extracting hood, complete with an isolation box to section only the radiator, and then fender vents aft of the wheel wells to extract engine bay air. The fender vents I would style into genuine Mid-Ohio Avanti GT fender flares.

I understand the Daytona Coupe's whole nose hinges forward. I'll do what is necessary to work within constraints. If I can't swing that style, my backup plan are louvers like on 5th gen. Camaro Z28, ZL1, or on the later Mustang GT500s.

For the fender vents, my notion is to allow engine bay air to vent outside. Tall and skinny as in C7 Z06 dimensions, or shorter like a 3rd gen. Firebird Trans-Am, or as with Ferrari 550. I'll essentially tunnel through from inner fender to the exterior.

[wildfelr]

RQB3263/81/305 ..... WOW BIG PROJECT !! I PERSONELLY PREFER THE  4 BOLT AND SPACER METHOD...... BILL

[Geoff]

Oh without a doubt there are simpler ways of accomplishing the same task. Your spacers or Ron Dame's popping of the hood release (my father would do the same for 1025 when he was driving it in the '70s). I even heard a suggestion of removing the underhood insulation pad and pulling off the hood's rear weather stripping.

My project is a basket case which I'll be stripping down and building from nearly step 1. My love is for road course racing and I enjoy performance street cars. My target numbers are sustained 1.1 lateral-G, 60-0 in sub-100 feet, with 500 pound feet & horsepower through a chassis dynamometer, so ≈610 crank.

The underpinning is Studebaker frame with C4 Corvette front and rear sub-frames worst case scenario. C5/6/7 trans-axle setup in best case scenario. Which boils down to, does trans-axle fit while maintaining 2+2 style? I'll be doing some measurement homework. The planned heart is a Magnuson supercharged LS2 so 700+ horsepower is possible, but for a fun and reliable three season street car, that's too over the top.

[wildfelr]

RQB3263/81/305 .... OK....KEEP IN TOUCH ....HERE....BILL