Devildog Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 (edited) Need some guidance before I start chasing electrons. On my 1975, the starter solenoid will not activate with the steering column key switch.When I turn the key to start position the starter does not activate. I can turn on key and jumper across the solenoid to start the car and it runs fine.When I move the key to start, I can hear a relay activate under the dash (fuse box ?).Any initial thoughts of where to begin ?Many thanks in advanceJoe >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The problem was the neutral safety switch (only start in P or N). It sits on top of the steering column under the dash at the firewall. I have some wiring diagrams and pics in this thread. This pic shows the broken plastic tip that sits down in the steering column. Parts were readily available as they are std GM parts used on 7000 different GM cars of that era neutral switch $11 and ignition switch also on steering column $15 Joe Edited January 2, 2015 by Devildog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 OK, a bit more info. When I move key to start, the relay sound is relay mounted on the left kick panel area just in front of speaker My ammeter is dead...needle is laying horizontal to left discharge ???????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) Circuits I do not see the kick panel relay in the attached circuits AE-A-4 Start.pdf AE-A-2 Charge:Feed.pdf Edited August 24, 2013 by Devildog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 On your car, the piece the key goes in is not the switch...it's the ignition lock. The actual switch is at the base of the steering column (on most cars), or may be located elsewhere and could be what you're hearing click. That may be your problem. Your steering column could be sourced from either AMC or Chrysler. The AMC unit was made by GM and the switches don't have the best history for durability but they do have many years on them now. My first inclination is to replace that switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 On your car, the piece the key goes in is not the switch...it's the ignition lock. The actual switch is at the base of the steering column (on most cars), or may be located elsewhere and could be what you're hearing click. That may be your problem. Your steering column could be sourced from either AMC or Chrysler. The AMC unit was made by GM and the switches don't have the best history for durability but they do have many years on them now. My first inclination is to replace that switch. Gunslinger, thanks Mine is a GM, it looks like the GM tilt assembly in the repair video and it has a DELCO wiring harness 20 pin connector that lays along the exterior of the column. According to the wiring schematic above, the PURPLE wire from the switch passes thru the 'neutral safety switch' with purple wire continuing to "S" terminal on starter solenoid When I turn the switch to run, there is power on the purple wire BUT when I rotate switch to START there is no voltage on the purple wire. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 OK, it has been 15 months since I started chasing my switch problem (been using push-button to engage starter). I pulled the switch off the steering column that was located under the dash at the support bracket. It has a rod-stiff wire (10 gauge) that is rotated by the key tumbler on the column. It has three wiring harness clips which plug into the side of the 3 inch long switch, held on the column by two small screws. has numbers 0096-> and 2N4K25 Any ideas what this may cross reference with such as the AMC or Chrysler ? Many thanks Seasons best to all of you Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 I used a Speedway harness to wire my 74 with a GM column. The wire colors generally correlate with the GM wiring. This diagram should help define the wires you are looking for. http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/Universal20Circuit.pdfIt notes a difference from 74 to 75 but the connectors should still be close. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren55 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) It's basically a GM column. Is it a tilt column? I could get you the part # I used in mine last year, but as I recall there are only two; one for tilt and one without. This is one for mine with a tilt wheel. http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-US105-Ignition/dp/B000C81UC2/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=03G2FAAVTPAMCK17M0W8 Edited December 30, 2014 by warren55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Thanks Bob, That seems to be the unit. It cross references with 7000 GM and 600 Chrysler models Thanks for the wiring as well Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I replaced the switch on the column which the rod activates as the key tumbler is turned (O'Reilly BW part #CS83). That was NOT the problem. The big relay on the side kick panel clicks, as I read the circuit there is a PURPLE wire that goes to the 'S' terminal on the starter. the PURPLE wire passes thru the 'neutral switch' on the tranny. I will sort thru that purple wire circuit RELAY-> PURPLE wire -> NEUTRAL switch -> PURPLE wire -> S terminal on starter Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren55 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Sounds like we've narrowed it down to a neutral safety switch problem! Have you tried jiggling the shift knob? (I know, dumb question...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Bob, yes tried moving the shift handle and banging on it. Where is that switch located? I looked up from the underside, but do not see a switch or lead wires. Down lower on the column is this funky green switch type module. The PURPLE wire comes from the column starter switch that I replaced, the heavy gauge WHITE wire goes somewhere. However, when I pulled the connecter with PURPLE and WHITE wire and jumper them, the key will engage the starter. So, I guess the WHITE wire connect to secondary PURPLE wire that is attached to the 'S' terminal on starter. Also, there is a small white and small black wire on terminal clip pair...no idea where they go...probably to some switch on the shifter???? thanks again Joe I hate any work under the dash, rather pull the engine that work under dash ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 More info, when a pull the two small WHITE and BLACK wires, the key does not engage the starter, nor if a jumper the two small terminals, the starter does not engage. Therefore it seems this funky green module is inop. Again if I jumper the big PURPLE and WHITE wires, the key will engage the starter. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren55 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 That picture you have up there is the neutral safety switch on the top of the column. There is a rod going from the steering column (in the firewall area) that goes to the shift assembly. When you put it in neutral or park, it moves the tab inside the steering column under that switch. Mine has been bypassed, which is fine with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I think I will permanently jumper the PURPLE&WHITE wires to by-pass the safety switch and forget it. Thanks Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 OK, now I have NO ELECTRICAL power...no lights, brake lights, nothing. I am guessing blew the 14 gauge red wire fusible link between the starter and the ammeter. I am not sure why???? I jumpered white/purple wire to by-pass the safety switch, I started the car OK...shifted thru the gears (P R N D) and then shutdown. When I tried to restart, no power. I had the safety switch removed from column ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren55 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I'm at a loss. Whether the switch is there or not should have no effect on it, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devildog Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 We are OK, the red power wire between the ammeter and starter just simply pulled out of the connection crimp while I was moving them to see the wire color. There was no fusible link in the red wire; appears someone replaced it with piece of 1918 lamp cord with a fabric insulation when the link burnt out in past years. Of course it had to fail just as I was doing some other electrical diagnoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren55 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Always a treat to deal with what someone before you has done. At least we solved that mystery. Happy New Year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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