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Posted

Thanks for posting but where is the rest? That's about as nice a slide show as I've seen, How did you make it.

Luckily my frame and hog troughs were in much better shape, only a little patching required.

Is the front suspension Slick Street stuff and how do you like it. I'm considering that in the future.

A great post

Thanks, Bob

Posted

here's some pics of my w.i.p. (work in progess) you might enjoy

http://screencast.com/t/D5Elh08L4S

That was Great! Thanks for sharing.

Posted

thanks for viewing ..I used jing for the slide show the basic is a free download let's you make a 5min. movie I use the pro so I can use the microphone that's about the only difference ...still working on the car will post more in a week or two as far as the slick street stuff I'll tell you I think he needs to move the whole rack over to the left (drivers side) that's what I ended up doing.... trying to make the steering linkage from the rack to the steering colum without hitting the headers is next to imposible and that was with the header style he suggests..it was a major job he was most helpful on the phone but in the end we were on or own.... the system may be a 'bolt on' but the steering linkage is the hardest part he said this fits on a lark with no problem only thing is this ain't no lark! the engine compartment is totally different .......since we really haven't gotten the car going yet I hope I did the right thing

***beware this is what can happen when you just want your 'carb rebuilt' on a chevy 305 like I did!***

Posted

Great slide show! Will be looking for more when you post it. Does your have the a 700 R tranny with the 305? I had talked with you on Friday. I'll try to get over to see it within the next couple of weeks.

plwindish

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just posted the slide shows at these you tube links....also someone contacted me about the xtra rivets I have whoever re email me sorry lost you email address

1) slide show

2.) hog troughs

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

How did you apply the Rust Bullet paint?

I tried using it on a porch railing about a year ago and found that it was thickening in the quart can

faster than I could apply it (painting metal railings is a slow process), to the point that within an

hour or two it was nearly impossible to brush it on, and IIRC the can instructions said it could not be thinned.

I ended up switching to Rustoleum primer.

Posted

here is part 3 on the troughs you may find some usefull information here!

http://screencast.com/t/ONnml2II

When I come across parts references, I often make notes in my Avanti part manual.

You asked about the rear brake cylinders. Not sure where I got the info, but I have a note that

13/16" brake cylinders from a '61 to '66 Volvo "P" can be used.

It's also possible the "13278" digits may be an industry-standard brake parts (EIS?) number;

I also have notations for Wagner numbers F37782, F37783, and 41451 (the latter may be an earlier EIS standard

number, while the ones with the "F" prefix may be a newer standard number, eg, the standard numbering scheme

may have changed at some point over the years).

Your best bet would be to take the brake cylinder(s) to a brake distributor for ID (my local brake distributor

will sell to retail customers although their real business is supplying brake parts to local repair shops).

Posted

Another nice job on the video. Are you going to do a video on the remounting body to chassis?

Posted

And of course the rear brake cylinders can be ordered from Studebaker International.

Posted (edited)

here it the body 'goin down' .. http://screencast.com/t/v1qBiA4t I brush painted the rustbullet but you have to work fast (two coats) then used a epoxy type clear overcoat I have two extra unopend quarts of the rustbullet for sale and stainless steel rivets for sale (left overs) <BR>I will say this I now know a heck of a lot about my car as I was involed in every step of this operation and I know there where no 'short cuts' or sloppy workmanship done anywhere!! 

Edited by p schmidt

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