warren55
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Posts posted by warren55
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They are easy enough on the right side of the motor, but the left side is a major PITA. I changed mine with a combination of swivel sockets, open end wrenches and bloody knuckles. If you drill a hole in the inner fender at the appropriate place, it makes getting an extension right through to the offending plugs much easier. I will go that route next time!
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Great idea. I may have to do this if I ever take my package shelf out!
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I believe that's only for the 80's (?) and newer Avanti's that used a Chrysler (?) power window motor. I'm too lazy to look it up!
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On mine, someone had replaced one of the bolts in the center pivot on the door with a longer bolt. It took forever to figure it out, but the main lift arm was rubbing on it about a 1/2 inch from the top and it would grind to a stop every time unless you helped it up.
Something else to look for!
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I tried to upload a picture of my Nardi wheel, but this site isn't picture friendly. 217 bytes just isn't enough! Anyway, try this:
As for the switches, I think Gunslinger is right. I have several that I'm unsure of. I'm sure one was fog lights and one was a power antenna, the others, ? All have been bypassed at some point on mine.
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This might help to explain how they work. The ratios are determined by the size and number of teeth on the gears: http://www.drivingfast.net/technology/differentials.htm
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Boogieman
I'll bet you'll want to kick yourself when you find it!
We've all done it; something simple we've overlooked, even though we know better. I agree with Gunslinger, start at the beginning and look for that one thing you just can't seem to see.
I recently spent way more time than I care to admit trying to bleed the air out of new caliper on a friend's SUV I had just replaced. It didn't dawn on me until someone else pointed out that it was the right caliper but on the wrong side; the bleeder was on the bottom and air was trapped at the top...I just couldn't see the forest for the trees!
I told you! I knew it had to be something dumb!
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I think a fresh set of eyes on the situation would help. Has anyone else looked at it?
I can't help but think there something that's being overlooked, but I can't for the life of me think of what it is!
It's too bad you can't drive it. I've been there before!
Also, I agree with Gunslinger and you; it's the same as a Jeep or a Chrysler back there.
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I can't remember, did you change the brake shoes? Could they be the wrong width?
I'm just grasping at straws here....
Edit: I just read a couple post up that you did not. Sorry.
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With the wheels off and the brake drums on, you can turn the axles freely? I assume the shoes are dragging slightly or not at all at that point.
These are the same drums you had on originally?
If all those things are true, I don't see how that could happen.
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I've personally been watching this restoration for almost two years now, but I missed seeing it completed. It was a meticulous restoration and should do well at the Concours d' Elegance!
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I am at a loss having never seen this in 50+ years of cars.
Nothing replaced, nothing added, nothing changed, no turn.
What am I missing?
The car looks odd suspended in mid-air unable to move under it's own power.
Boogieman
I'll bet you'll want to kick yourself when you find it!
We've all done it; something simple we've overlooked, even though we know better. I agree with Gunslinger, start at the beginning and look for that one thing you just can't seem to see.
I recently spent way more time than I care to admit trying to bleed the air out of new caliper on a friend's SUV I had just replaced. It didn't dawn on me until someone else pointed out that it was the right caliper but on the wrong side; the bleeder was on the bottom and air was trapped at the top...I just couldn't see the forest for the trees!
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Well, I think it's a great story and you should be proud that you're keeping your father's passion (and now yours) for the car alive!
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But we are Superbowl champions for the first time in Seattle history!
Just had to gloat a little bit
Some happy Avanti owner's up here!
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Just remember that there is a left and a right side, 36076 and 36077. The bleeder valve is angled towards the back of the axle.
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From the information I gleaned at Bob Johnstone's site this is what I bought and they work great. They are 13/16" bore, which is what was in mine. I believe the earlier cars had 3/4" bore cylinders but it appears yours is newer than mine so you should be fine. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C70H4A/ref=oh_details_o06_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the other side:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7234W/ref=oh_details_o06_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I agree, it's most likely a rear wheel cylinder. Having just gone through my rear brakes I can hopefully help with pictures and part #'s.
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I've ordered several parts from the above vendor and I've been very happy with his service, especially shipping since he uses Priority Mail which is usually much quicker and cheaper than UPS. I'd contact him about them if you're considering that option.
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I'm curious to hear what you find out about your problem. Keep us posted!
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Yep, that looks like my setup alright. Only difference is my outlet for my front brakes on the master cylinder is on the other side. So the 71 is different, huh? I'm surprised, I wonder what else is different.
Here's a shot of mine. Probably the ugliest part of my engine compartment. I should find a way to paint the master cylinder. I have a new one, but see no reason to swap it at this point. It's nice you have NOS parts like that laying around.
(I suppose I should have just put the picture on photo bucket or somewhere else. This is is big as I can make it on this page!) -
I'm not sure what might have changed from 1971 to 1973, but I found this to be true for my car when doing my rear brakes after a lot of research:
he rear brake springs & hardware are from 66-73 jeep CJ type with 11" drums. The only difference is the color. These are old parts numbers from then Bendix H7137 or EIS H7137. The rear wheel cylinders are from 78-86 ford fairmont station wagon, 73 ford fairmont and mustang 82-83 work. They are 13/16th cylinder cups. The brake shoes are from chevy. I can't recall which model, but shoe number was wagner 228 Doug Greene August 2003
From Bob Johnstone's site.
As for the distribution block/proportioning valve, yes the valve can shut off pressure to the side that has a drop in pressure (ie; a major leak). That's the idea of having a split braking system, you won't lose all your brakes in the case of a failure in either the front or the rear brakes. As for re-centering the valve, I think causing a loss of pressure on the other side can bring it back but I haven't had any experience with that.
Mine physically looks like an early Mustang distribution block and is bolted under the brake booster on a bracket with two bolts. If you look at one of the reproduction ones they make for a 70 Mustang/Cougar, that's essentially what I have. Here's one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-70-Ford-Mustang-Cougar-Mach-1-Disc-Brake-Distribution-Block-D0OA-2B328-DX-/300853728632?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460c479578&vxp=mtr The proportioning valve is built into the rear brake side of it, since drum brakes will tend to lock up under heavy braking before disc brakes. I was convinced that was my problem, so I did a lot of research on that particular part. I have heard that some of the Chrysler units will interchange also, so I wonder if your has perhaps been changed before?
With Avanti's, it's hard to say what they did from year to year.
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I have the part # at home, but the distribution block from a 77 Mustang II (or Pinto w/disc brakes) is a direct replacement according to Gary Johnson (former Avanti dealer).
The only problem is it's an obsolete part and no longer made and I never have found one yet.
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Thanks Wayne, that is a far better price! I'll have to update my bookmarks.
It does sound like you have air trapped somewhere in your front lines, doesn't it?
As for you distribution block, it looks similar to the one in my 73 but they must have changed some things around. There should be a proportioning valve built into it, though. There is another block on the frame that splits the front wheel line and has the brake light switch in it. A real pain to change those lines, too. I also eliminated the mechanical brake light switch and installed an electric one on the pedal, a worthwhile and easy modification.
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I've noticed lately that my avatar actually shows up now in my posts. Did the forum get an upgrade? It was certainly due for one.
How To Access Avanti II Spark Plugs
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Jacking up the front of the car and removing the left front wheel is also helpful, but they are still a pain!