warren55
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Posts posted by warren55
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Welcome to the club. If you had a Porsche 928, then you'll be fine with your Avanti. At least the prices won't seem unreasonable! I almost bought one a few years back, but the price of some parts and the timing belt procedure scared me off. I ended up with an SL500 which can still be a challenge to work on, but can't hold a candle to the 928!
As for the brakes, I'm still sticking with the original Dunlop design just because it was cool for it's time and the parts are still available. (Check out any XKE forum or vendor.)
If I were to change them, I'd be tempted to use Tom's (SBCA96 on this and other forums) design for mounting the Mustang Cobra brakes. He used to sell some brackets for them, I'm not sure if he still does. Worth looking into, though. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?81440-RAD-Ideas-Mustang-GT-and-Cobra-brake-adapter-bracket-update
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Good to see you here, Bill! Now that Kelso is in the rear view, it looks like Summer is making a comeback....
If I could have any engine in mine, I'd go for an LS1 or even an LM7 like I have in my Silverado. They are just so smooth and powerful and easy to live with!
If you insist on looking original, then the 400 you have could be made to look just like your 305, right?
On a budget, I'd think one of the later 80's motors that GM put in their trucks with the throttle body injection could be made to look like a carbureted motor pretty easily? I'm sure that could be built to make some power.
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I agree, the question is misleading unless you specify that we're staring with a short block. The carburetor might need to be re-jetted too, if it was taken off the 350.
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Here's another option and I've heard good things about them. He shows one for $170 exchange. http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/
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I have the same problem on my '63 Lark V8 with a brand new Turner brake system.
I have all new pads, S10 calipers, Mustang rotors and a new booster. The residual check valve in the dual M/C has been removed. The vacuum hose is new. The booster check valve is new. The car stops but I had a near panic stop one afternoon and the rear end decided it didn't want to play nice with the rest of the car as the rear brakes locked up early and I ended up a bit sideways in my lane.
The rear brake shoes are new and the rear calipers are new. Not NOS. They are the 7/8 calipers for the original V8 drum/drum system.
All lines have been bled many times from back to front starting with the longest line.
I was considering a prop valve but this forum seems to think that isn't the way to go. Mind you Gunslingers reply no. 9 above might be the fix I need.
This car could get squirrelly come winter...
I had almost the same symptoms with my 73 a couple years ago, and I'm not sure I can offer a solution, but here's my experience. First of all, I have the stock Bendix disc brakes and my rears are also stock, but still not the same as yours.
My brakes would work pretty well under normal circumstances, but under anything approaching an emergency the rears would lock up and the car became almost uncontrollable. I had already changed all the brake hoses just because.
(As I side note, I have been a truck driver for about 40 years and I've had plenty of experience with dealing with brake lock up.;-))
My first instinct was to replace the brake distribution block, which has a proportioning valve built into it, but a replacement wasn't easy to find so I decided to check the rear wheel cylinders since I had heard of problems there.
My rear brakes looked almost new in every way, but I knew it had been several years since they had been serviced. I went ahead and replaced the rear cylinders since they are reasonably cheap. No change.
I next looked at the rear backing plate and springs, just in case there were any grooves that the brake shoes could hang up in. I replaced the springs and ground the backing plates smooth, but no joy again. Here is where I jumped ahead of myself and installed an adjustable proportioning valve. I happened to have one, but it was a bit of a plumbing nightmare to get it installed. Even turned down all the way I had rear brake lockup!
I finally turned to the only other thing I could possibly change (other than the entire system) and replaced the rear brake shoes. The old ones looked perfect, and I had washed them down with brake cleaner along with scrubbing them with 150 grit sandpaper in case they were glazed. Bingo. End of problem. I later removed the useless proportioning valve and now my brakes work as well as any car I have, except they haven't got ABS.
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The rear brake assemblies on your '71 were used on '71-'85 Avantis, and a good cross at the parts counter is '78-'82 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup truck rears. (Brake shoes, wheel cylinders, hard ware kits)
I'm certainly not saying you are wrong, but my research sent me to the wheel cylinders from an 1982 Ford Mustang, the shoes from an early Corvette (I think 59 to early 60's) and the brake spring kit from an early 70's Jeep CJ5. A lot of vehicles used the Dana 44, so there could be several choices.On the wheel cylinders I know one of the critical points was the bore size. Mine seem to work just fine.
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Yes, the rear looks like the factory brake setup, which is mostly available parts. Early Corvette brake shoes, Ford Fairmont or Mustang brake cylinders, and Jeep CJ5 spring kit. I can give you specific years if you need.
The drums are a little bit of a mystery. I think Bob is right about Chrysler, but I think they still need some modification. I have never found a direct replacement and luckily mine seem to be in fine shape!
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Sorry, I already got hold of Bill and the seats and rear bumper are headed to Maine. Sorry i missed the front bumper, still looking.
As usual, I'm a day late and a $ short!
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Any chance I could get some pictures of the rear bumper or the seats? My email is: wcortesi@gmail.com
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Just to put a bow on this thread, I talked with our chapter president (Lou Cote) and he got the job done. The motor from an 84-86 Jeep Cherokee is a direct replacement. I believe it is used in a lot of other Chrysler products too. He also found out that the plastic gear set is not included with this motor after he got home. Luckily he was able to locate one of those nearby!
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I recently had my nephew build a Quadrajet for me, and we removed the useless Holley spreadbore that someone had put on before me. What a difference! Much better driveability and no more hot start problems.
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As for the Pontiac GTO radiator, I'd be surprised if that is going to work but I'd think it would be worth a bunch to a guy who has a 67 GTO with a 400!
As for my 73, the radiator cooled just fine when I got it but it had an annoying leak between the core and the lower tank. Some advised me to just put some stop leak in it and live with it since I rarely drive it.
Since I'm not one to leave not quite right alone, I took it out and took it to a local, well respected radiator shop. He condemned my core and my transmission cooler, saying it had just been around for too long and had lived a good life. He said he could patch it up for about $100, but it really needed to be recored and it would be better than new for $500. I of course opted for the $500 better than new option. I got it back and after replacing the water pump, thermostat,hoses and belts along with my newly reincarnated radiator, I replaced the hood and prepared myself for what would certainly be the most bullet proof cooling system in my region. (Did I mention the new fan clutch and fan?)
After living in denial for a few months, I realized that my radiator still leaked in almost exactly the same spot. The radiator guy said no problem, bring it to me and I'll check it out. After a week, he delivered it back to me with apologies. He said it had a leak between the core and the lower tank, but as soon as he heated it up to remove the lower bracket it stopped leaking. He assumed that some solder had flowed to where the leak was and stopped the leak. Nevertheless, he removed the bracket and cleaned everything up again. He then reattached the bracket and pressure tested it again, "daring it to leak!", but it was all good now. He said he guaranteed it would not leak, unless it did.
It did. I refused to take it out again. I should have put in the GM stop leak in the first place, because that's what I ended up doing. It still runs at 180 to 190 after throwing about $700 at it and more than a few hours of my time.
Rant over....
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My 400 never gets over 190, even though the heat coming from the engine compartment is intense! I've had to pull my radiator twice now (had it recored and it leaked the first time....), so I know how much fun that isn't!
While you have it out, I would consider looking at your fan clutch unless you've eliminated the fan? Also, is your shroud intact? You said you put two electric fans on it, so not sure what your setup there is.
And, even though it is a new motor I'd look at the thermostat and finally the gauge. You can check temps with an infrared thermometer while it's running and see where you are at different points in the cooling system. Those are pretty cheap anymore.
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Here's a picture for you, Greg.
http://s3.photobucket.com/user/wcortesi/media/IMG_3869_zps11hxf1t9.jpg.html
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MIne has been redone, but it was similar. I now have a white and gray combo on my seats with black carpets and it looks pretty good. I'll send you a picture sometime!
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I did a Google search and found one Avanti with Cragar's on it. Looks to me like 15x7's on the front and 15x8's on the rear, in case you want to picture how your car would look. I would drop the whitewalls, but that's just me....
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/community/classic-car/1963-Studebaker-Avanti-547350.xhtml
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As I recall, the old school Cragar SS wheels don't offer a choice on BS. I had 15x8's on my old Mustang, and I think they had 4.25" BS. They barely cleared my calipers on my 67. I'm sure someone has the max listed here for the front. I'm sure you could run 15x7's in the front and 15x8's in the rear, but I'd make sure about the clearance on the 8" wide in the front before you try it, unless you want to use spacers.
I do love the old Cragar's, but the 14 and 15" wheels only come in a uni-lug just like they were back in the day.
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My left turn refuses to cancel even after I put a new switch in, so sometimes I'm that guy too!
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Nice stance!
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I'd love to see some pictures when you get done. I've always wanted to lower mine, but I have found very little information on lowering springs. Spokane is only about a 5 hour drive from here!
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We had a very interesting seminar last Saturday in anticipation of the authenticity manual that Al Basile from our local chapter has been diligently working on. We had it at Gary Johnson's shop here in Tacoma and we were lucky enough to have John Hull show up and answer a few questions.
Great guy, lots of fun to listen to. I think everybody there had a great time.
I took some video of the event, and I apologize for the quality, but I thought I'd share a little with you. It might be a little hard to hear, the microphone on this thing isn't the greatest.
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The fellow you talked to must have had his dates wrong; Nate died in 1976.
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That is the problem with these old brake systems; the parts are available but a little pricey! At least you'll know that everything is mostly new and shouldn't give you any trouble for many years. If you're using regular brake fluid, it's a good idea to at least bleed them every year or so to keep fresh brake fluid in the pistons. They can rust up inside and cause all kinds of trouble.
Let us know how it goes!
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I have a friend near Toronto who's very knowledgeable about Avanti's if you ever need any help.
Avanti with all drum brakes?
in 1963-64 Avanti
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If it came with drum brakes in front it would be the first that I've heard of and a very rare car! What is the serial number? I will probably be talking with Gary Johnson later today, and if anyone would know about it he would.