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Posts posted by warren55
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I think since the control valve has to move forward, the excess hose might cause a problem if it's not routed the way it is now. I'd love to see your design, though! It is a mess down there....
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I have heard that the Moog CC655 is a direct fit, and it's a variable rate spring. Fits the rear of a 1986-88 Buick LeSabre, among other GM cars.
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There's two ways to do it. Remove the bumper and put fog lights in front of the frame extensions, or remove the extensions from the frame and cut them, but that involves supporting the body and removing the front body mounts while the surgery is being performed, then reattaching the frame extension and welding new stainless into the grille to fill in the holes where the extension extruded out.
I chose the latter method since I didn't want fog lights sitting under my bumper, although I used that method the first year I had the car.
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I removed the "cow catcher" bumper on mine. It's not too hard. I'm not sure if that's allowed in Germany, though.
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I'm not positive about your 81, but this is a direct replacement for my 73. I bought it through Amazon a couple years ago, but you might find it a FLAPS near you.
Raybestos MC36248 -
Rusted hog troughs are probably one of the biggest problems you'll run into on an Avanti, and probably the first question out of any potential buyers mouth is "how are the hog troughs?". It seriously diminishes the value and I would not pay that much for an Avanti with that issue. There has been some discussion as to their structural importance, but there is little discussion as to their value. Replacing them will not be cheap or easy, either.
The newer 350 will not affect the value of the car, though.
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Mine is between the X member and the differential, which makes it very difficult to remove the drive line! If I ever redo my exhaust, I might rethink it. I'd post a picture, but it's just too involved on this site. We should upgrade it too allow more than 217 bytes!
I know I can link to it on another site like photobucket, but I have to upload it there, etc...
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You need cerium oxide to polish the glass. Check with a glass shop, they may have some. It's a rather messy process, but I've used it with some success. Glass is about as hard as chrome, so polishing out scratches is tricky! I have an aftermarket moon roof in my car. It works fine, but I'd stick with OEM if you can.
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Wow. Looks very nice,and unique!
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Another option is John Hull, I just got mine from him.
avantifromct@aol.com
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Always a treat to deal with what someone before you has done. At least we solved that mystery. Happy New Year!
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I'm at a loss. Whether the switch is there or not should have no effect on it, though.
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That picture you have up there is the neutral safety switch on the top of the column. There is a rod going from the steering column (in the firewall area) that goes to the shift assembly. When you put it in neutral or park, it moves the tab inside the steering column under that switch. Mine has been bypassed, which is fine with me.
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Sounds like we've narrowed it down to a neutral safety switch problem! Have you tried jiggling the shift knob? (I know, dumb question...)
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It's basically a GM column. Is it a tilt column? I could get you the part # I used in mine last year, but as I recall there are only two; one for tilt and one without.
This is one for mine with a tilt wheel. http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-US105-Ignition/dp/B000C81UC2/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=03G2FAAVTPAMCK17M0W8
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And the Alvis! (Found this doing research on the Dunlop brakes a couple months ago. Interesting cars.)
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For some reason, I think I remember something about a Zombie.
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I bought some Goodyear tires in that size a couple years ago. I decided to go with blackwall, so they were easy to find. I think it was around $400 out the door at Discount Tire. My other option was raised white letter BFG for just a little more.
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To all the AOAI members! What's under your tree?
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Please let us know if your offer was accepted. Always nice to know the outcome of these things!
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I broke down and found the listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-Avanti-Coupe-1971-avanti-restored-factory-350-corvette-engine-/301435566562?forcerrptr=true&hash=item462ef5b9e2&item=301435566562&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
Looks like a nice car, have a member in the area look it over for you. (I bought mine in Florida and did just that) I paid $15,000 for mine, but I'm pretty sure I over paid. That would be for one in perfect condition which mine was not. It's getting close, though!
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We need a lot more details, but even then (as stated above) it's hard to say! I've seen them go pretty cheap, I'm sorry to say.
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I see no reason to eliminate it. I don't always read it, but when I do I usually learn something.
Anything to stimulate conversation on this forum, which tends to be a little stagnant!
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I replaced mine last year and confirmed they were correct for my car, but I thought the early RQA's used the Studebaker rear brake setup?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C70H4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Grille for '63
in 1963-64 Avanti
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So I'm assuming you don't trailer it to the car shows?
Might as well drive 'em. No reason to save all the fun for the next guy!