warren55
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Posts posted by warren55
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I bought a plastic battery tray through Amazon and modified it (cut off one end) to fit in the available area. It's working just fine. Here's a thread I started with a picture here:
http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2556&hl=%2Bbattery+%2Btray
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You have a different clock than my 73 has in it, then.
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The steering wheel and the idiotic cow catcher shock absorbers? Ooops. Just realized you said interior. Leather for the seats.
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I'd call Jon Myer unless you want to try to have them made and bent to order. I considered that route, but I would have had to pull all the hoses off and take them down to get them made. (We have several shops around that can do it.) I probably might have saved $100, but the time it would add to the job would have eaten that up in my time.
I believe you have the same exact system as the earlier ones with the control valve attached to the Pitman arm and 4 hoses attached to it. It's almost identical to the system that early Mustangs and other Fords used. There's a ton of info out there on it, I'm sure you've seen it. There isn't a real good "how to" out there that I've seen, but if you pay close attention to how they're on there and how they're routed, it's pretty straight forward. One of the upper lines (might have been the high pressure line, can't remember for sure) is the biggest problem on the control valve. Moving the Pitman arm forward or back and using a mirror, it was doable with a crows foot line wrench and a long extension from the front side of the control valve.
It will likely kill a Saturday for you. Moral support will help!
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The ones in my 73 appear to be the same as the originals, too.
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Wrap the exhaust pipe with DEI thermal wrap.
It will make a large difference. Use two layers by the starter if it still feels hot.
How much of the DEI wrap did you have to use to do all that?
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Just to put a bow on this thread, I got the new crossovers from XKs Unlimited and they fit perfectly. In these pictures you can see why I needed to buy new ones. Previous owner seemed to think that they should be on the outside of the caliper. Some rubbing had occurred....
While I was there I centered the caliper bridge and replaced the front wheel bearings, along with painting things up to look close to stock.
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Thanks to Lewis Schucart and Brad Bez, I'm confident that the XKE crossover pipes will work fine.
http://xks.com/i-7084284-06-3000-bridge-pipes-mild-steel-front-pair.html
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Just bumping to the top. I can't be the first one to look into this!
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I don't have a picture handy, but the PO put a bracket on top of my motor with a Sanden compressor. It attaches to the top water pump bolts and I'm sure he didn't make it. It doesn't leave a lot of room for a standard thermostat housing, but whoever did it managed to find an offset one.
I've never seen another one like it, so I don't know who made it. Let me know if you need a picture, I'll email it to you.
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I need to replace mine, and since they're the same design as the Jaguar XKE brakes I was wondering if there is a difference in the Bendix design that I'm not aware of. There's a lot more selection and a significant price difference between what SI wants for theirs and the Jag vendors:http://xks.com/i-7084335-06-3003-bridge-pipes-stainless-rear-pair.html
The next question; is there a difference between the Jag front and rear brake cross over? This vendor says not: https://etypeparts.myshopify.com/products/c7783
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I can confirm that the Gates 20627 is a perfect fit for my 73, also.
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PS. The guy that worked on this car prior to me should be band from any auto stuff.
I know exactly what you mean! I've been dealing with that from the day I got mine.
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I agree about the motor mounts. There isn't much clearance there to begin with, so if they're collapsed or the wrong ones it could rub. Cranking the wheel makes changing the belt much easier!
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You got lucky! The tab that engages the door handle lock was snapped off on mine. Luckily a friend in Canada had one and sold it to me cheap.
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I think the best way is to have them on another site like photo bucket and link to them here. I've encountered the same problem.
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Excuse my ignorance, but isn't your door assembly the same as the original Stude ones (like mine)? The upper door seal is a 3 piece design, and less than perfect I must admit. Did yours come with a one piece design like shown above?
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Any place that works on big trucks should be able to order them for you. Spicer is a pretty big name in in the truck world and I would choose them over Moog or AC Delco. I know the drive line shop we deal with uses Spicer U joints.
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It was sold in late 63 as a 64 model.
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Remove the speaker in the middle of the dash.
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A built in roll bar?
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Curious if the answer above is correct?
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I know for a fact that the first two had 4 speeds in them, with the same color combo!
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Agreed, very much on purpose.
AVANTI PRODUCTION NUMBERS
in 1965-83 Avanti
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Interesting info on the 400 motor. I had zero experience with a 400 before I got RQB1992. I had not heard a lot of good things about it, so I expected the worst after looking at the HP ratings and hearing of the overheating problems. I must say I've been pleasantly surprised by this motor. From what was posted above, it was apparently a 2bbl. motor when it left the factory, but someone has installed a standard GM 4bbl. manifold on it and it has a Holley Quadrajet replacement carburetor on it.
It has a surprising amount of power, and will easily set you back in the seat when you kick in the secondaries! I had figured I would drop a crate 350 in it at some point, but I'm in no hurry to do so!
I'm not out to race anybody, but I'm no stranger to quick cars. My other toy is an SL500.