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warren55

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Posts posted by warren55

  1. First off, Welcome to the forum!

    The Studebaker Avanti Shop Manual is the only manual available for our cars, but does a good job of explaining how to adjust the windows since they are the same.

    Hopefully Brad will see this, as he can do a much better job of explaining it all.

  2. I agree, Avanti Motors must have started using those because of availability or price. That's what mine has on it, too. Those are the ones that are still available from Nissan if you know what to order. I also hear that the casting is too thin to sleeve.

    I think you can see where it says Sumitomo on the top of my cylinder in this picture.

    http://s3.photobucket.com/user/wcortesi/media/20141103_114230_zpsbaa52fe9.jpg.html

  3. When I bought some about 12 years ago for my Mustang, the 14 and 15" were unilug only, just like the originals. The larger sizes they had to design from scratch, so those were available in pre drilled common bolt circles. Hard to say what they have today.

    They were a bit of a pain to deal with, getting the washers in there right and hoping you had it centered correctly. Still brings back memories or my younger days when it was THE wheel to have.

  4. You have a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern, but if you're talking about the original Cragar SS wheels, they are a uni-lug design made to fit up to a 5x5 bolt pattern as I recall.

    Which wheels do you have now?

  5. I was lucky, none of mine leaked. Do yours happen to say Sumitomo on the cylinder? I have a feeling that Avanti Motors started using them in the later years.

    You have a few options, and the cheapest would be a rebuild kit but there is a good chance you'll find some severe pitting inside unless you've been using silicone brake fluid.

    Rebuilt and sleeved cylinders are available for about $100 each, and apparently you can still buy new ones from Nissan. They used them in the old Fairlady and 2000 roadsters.

  6. I actually didn't install those pad in mine, since mine were like new. A friend did, and I can't recall if he had to sand them to get them in. Getting the cylinders completely compressed can be a challenge, though. I had to apply a bit more force than I would on a normal piston.

    I wouldn't worry about any adhesive or shims. If they fit onto the head of the piston snugly, you should be fine.

    I do recall they have a break in layer on the pads and a pretty specific break in method listed in the instructions.

  7. No, the bridge is the cast iron piece that your cylinders are mounted to. When it's all assembled and on the car, look straight at your caliper in line with your rotor. I think you'll see what I mean. Here's the best picture I can find. See where the bolt goes through that bar in the middle to hold the pad retainers? That bar should line up with your rotor.

    th_20141103_134035_zps2wzs5gcy.jpg

  8. I recently went through mine, and here's a few things I'd suggest. Obviously, check your wheel bearings. While you have it apart, consider removing and replacing the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the spindle. If these happen to come loose, all kinds of nasty things can happen! Also replace the two caliper retaining bolts with new grade 8 bolts. Torque them to specs. Just cheap insurance and it shouldn't cost you more than a few bucks.

    When you take off the caliper bridge, pay close attention to how many spacers there are and where they go. When you mount it back up, notice that the vertical bar on the bridge lines up with the face of the rotor? You can use that for a reference point to get your caliper centered. Take a straight edge on the face of the rotor and line it up with that bar, which should be about the same thickness as your rotor. I got this tip from Gary Johnson, and it was very helpful when I did mine. Once you have that pretty much centered, you can start taking some measurements with a feeler gauge. There's been a lot written about this on Bob Johnstone's site:http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/brakes/calipers.html

    I actually like the Dunlop/Bendix disc brakes, and mine work just fine with no noise at all. I agree with Brad, though. Get the EBC Green Stuff pads. Amazon has a good price on them. Another friend got some from SI and they were unusable, according to him. He went with the EBC's and seems to like them.

  9. Looks you've both done your homework. Testing began in 1954, and how disc brakes would perform in inclement weather was their initial concern.

    Gary Johnson just shared an excellent paper by J.L.Winge from Bendix with our club editor. I tried to attach a part of it, but this ridiculously limiting forum format will not allow me to!

  10. And here in Washington, we've had the mildest winter on record. No snow, some freezing, but all in all, very nice! Today is forecast to be clear and in the middle 60's. Yardwork is the word of the day, but might blast around in the Avanti or maybe the convertible tomorrow.

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