Mel
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Posts posted by Mel
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Take the rotor off and clean all the grease out of the areas, inside the rotor hub, where the bearings rest and see if one of the beveled rings (race) inside seems loose or can be wiggled around at all.
You stated above that you repacked the bearings but if you ascertain the existing races are pressed in tightly, I'd consider having the races replaced and install new bearings.
Did the noise start suddenly after you did any previous work, hit a pothole, etc.? Is it particularly prominent during a right or left turn? Sounds to me like a bearing/race issue.
Good luck. Keep us posted. Thanks.
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On one car I had, eons ago, one of the bearing races was a bit loose in the drum. The bearing had never seized so I don't know why the race was loose but ... Might be worth a look. Good luck.
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It looks like the car is basically all there. You have to decide how much you can do yourself and how much you are willing to spend. Personally, I have about twice invested in my car than I'll ever get back, all the (extensive) labor on my part being free; I don't regret a single penny spent. These cars are an absolute joy to drive and always get great comments. Good luck!
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Thanks, mfg! It is the SW type. Part B, What do I lube it with? Thanks, again!
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The needle on the tach sticks. Anyone know if there is a way to lubricate the needle without taking it apart. Thanks in advance.
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There are several videos on YouTube on how to test boosters, both in place and on the workbench. Also, there are videos on proper adjustment of the actuating rod using a particular tool made for the job. The tool, as I recall was $12-$14 and removes the guesswork.
I'd check to see if the gasket around the check valve is leaking. With the engine idling, use a small rubber hose and, with one end in your ear, probe around the gasket with the other end listening for leaks. You can also pull the hose off the valve, plug the hose and see if there is any difference in braking with the engine running.
Good luck.
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The slot in the mechanism, as referenced by Leo B above, is only maybe a little over 1/4" wide and to reach it from the inside requires a very long arm and a light. I took an old flat blade screwdriver, approximately 18 inches long, and ground the sides down to fit into the slot. I also zip-tied a small flashlight to the screwdriver. As do many other guys, I just let the trunk lid rest in the released position for just pleasure driving but lock it if needed. I keep the tool lying on the carpet in the trunk. Good luck.
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There are two wires attached to the negative side of the ignition coil, one leading to the distributor and the other to the tach transformer. Does anyone know if the higher voltage on the coil with a Pertronix setup will harm the tach sending unit or if it will even work with the Pertronix. Thanks in advance.
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The kick panel fresh air vents, on my '66 anyway, were made of a cellulose fiberboard composite (think pegboard in a workshop) edged with a rubber seal which had deteriorated badly and let in a lot of air. My repair is laid out in issue #170, pg. 49, but the Reader's Digest version is I pulled the 'flapper' valves out and replaced the material with thick gauge aluminum and mounted them on the original swivel posts. Trial and trimming to fit. To pull the flapper toward you, Push down on the plastic where the swivel inserts on the mount and push up on the swivel and pull the bottom of the swivel toward you. Much better fit and warm feet during the winter. Good luck.
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Some years ago when I had the interior apart, I put 1/4" insulation (foil covered foam, sticky on one side) everywhere under the carpet, seats, firewall (as much as I could), behind the back seat, ... It really seemed to help but, any way you look at it, these cars are warm inside. Driving down the road, notice how much heat comes in through the gearshift slot, assuming yours is like the earlier II's. Good luck.
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The gas tank on the Studebaker and early models of the II's is behind the back seat on a shelf; not sure where yours is but, no matter how the gas got in your engine, #1 or #2 above, I'd put a fuel shut off solenoid in the line. I put one in mine; write up is in issue #170, page 48. The solenoid is mounted under the tank and power is fed from the ignition switch. I also placed a keyed, hidden, barrel switch in series that must be in the ON position to be driven but, if in the OFF position and the car is hot wired/stolen, it will be driven only a couple hundred yards.
Good luck.
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The original A/C piston compressor was replaced with a Sandin rotary but jury-rig mounted on the original bracket (not my doing) and line up is not great. Further, the alternator sits up on top of the engine (next to the oil filler tube) on another jury-rigged bracket; I'm thinking this bracket may be original. The line up of this latter bracket is fair but allows very little contact of the fan belt with the water pump pulley.
Does anyone have experience with the Vintage Air mount brackets -- alternator on the driver's side and compressor on the passenger's? I was told by a GM guru that they make good products. I'm wondering if those two components mounted on the Vintage Air brackets will fit under the hood.
Any thoughts, advice, etc., will be greatly appreciated.
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You might check with All American Carburetors, Inc. in FL. 904-215-6790. They had about a 12 week backlog when I sent mine. Good luck.
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As you know, the gas tank on these cars sits on a ledge behind the back seat and, if the carb float valve sticks open, gas will flow into the carb, engine, out on the pavement, etc., unchecked. From what you describe, it sounds like this was not your problem but, as have others, I put a check valve (electric solenoid) under the car at the tank outlet and wired it (through a concealed barrel switch) into the ignition switch. If the barrel switch is off and the car is stolen and hotwire started, it will not be driven far. See Avanti Magazine, issue #170, pg. 48 for specifics. Good luck!
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Bad grounds can cause all kinds of weird problems. Bottom line, the more grounds (everywhere) the better. Good luck.
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The temperature sender on the block is basically a heat sensitive resistor which, as the temperature rises, decreases in value and sends higher voltage to the gauge which is essentially a voltmeter measuring up to 12v. On a very hot engine, the resistance value drops to 0 ohms allowing full voltage to the gauge which then reads (pegged) hot. I'd start by replacing the temperature sender, hooking things back up and going from there. Good luck.
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I'd use this opportunity to have the heater core pressure checked and repaired as needed. Good luck.
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The vent flaps were made of fiberboard, or something like it, and disintegrate with time. Mine were in very bad shape when I bought the car; you may have the same problem. You will have a lot of heat coming in the cowling if you don't have the seal at the back of the hood and your vent flaps are not closing or are in very bad shape. (If you have access to the AOAI magazine, issue #170, page 49, I wrote up in fair detail what I did to fix the flaps; Reader's Digest version follows.)
To repair a flap (I'll speak singularly) remove the cover and disengage the cable. Push down on the bottom where the pivot rod enters the 'mount' and push up on the pivot rod itself, then pull the bottom of the pivot rod toward you; this removes the flap valve. I made a template from paperboard and then cut the final flap from thick gauge aluminum. Attached the flap to the pivot rod with pop rivets. Reverse to reinstall. Having the front seats out is a must.
If yours acts like the vents are not opening or closing, the screws which hold the cables in place under the control panel may be lose letting the cables slide back and forth with the action of the levers.
Good luck.
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Fuel delivery problem to the carburetor; filter is good. Fuel pump replacement didn't help; this was a lot of fun as the (replacement) outlet is angled a bit closer to the crossmember. I have a shutoff solenoid under the car right at the bottom of the tank; solenoid is operative as I can blow into the inlet and it opens well when power is applied. Upon removal of the 'pinch' clamp on the outlet from the tank, I have no fuel flow. (I know the tank has at least 4 gallons in it as I initially thought I'd run of gas.)
I think I'll have to remove the tank and go from there. I've read that apparently the baffles can let go and possibly fall above the outlet. I believe the car has always been garaged. Is it worth trying to remove just the outlet fitting and trying to 'root out' the plug there? (I know this has to come out anyway if I decide to take the tank out.)
If the tank seems 'a mess', is a replacement tank the way to go or have it opened up and repaired.
Anybody got any ideas/advice? Thanks in advance.
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I had the same problem. If you have access to the older issues, specifically Issue 175 (Summer/Fall 2016, pg. 35), I wrote up my experience. Succinctly, I had a hole in the passenger exhaust manifold which, I think, was original and, I also think, machined to accept a stovepipe which led up to the (engine heated) automatic choke. Mine is a '66 and carbureted but now has a different choke mechanism; I don't know if yours is similarly equipped.
The hole is on the inner side of the manifold and goes up through the exhaust pipe mounting flange into the heat riser mechanism. I started a 5/16-18 regular tap and finished with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap and made about 6 complete threads. Both Noise and exhaust smell significantly reduced.
Good luck.
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Thanks, guys.
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Anyone know where I can get the brake booster valve for my 66. The booster has the keyed hole and the valve twists and locks into place. Studebaker International sent the wrong one and I was told that was the only type they had.
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Update on my note above. I'd replaced the booster and master cylinder and thought I had everything adjusted properly but, apparently not. The braking had a very hard pedal and acted as if the booster wasn't working at all. I performed the check on the booster as referenced in my note above; it was working properly. I placed washers between the booster and m/c for spacers and everything worked properly -- i.e., the rod was adjusted a bit long. Interestingly, the pads were not dragging. Hope this helps.
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There is a You Tube video on checking the operation of the booster -- "BRAKE BOOSTER PERFORMANCE CHECK". He isolates the booster from the system, he actually holds it in his hands at the side of the car, and runs it through the checks.
If the brakes are dragging, you may have the adjustment rod in the end of the booster a bit tight up against the m/c piston which will keep pressure on the piston and, hence, pressure on the pads.
Good luck.
SBC into 63 avanti, suggestions other than don't
in 1963-64 Avanti
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A few thoughts:
My 66 had the original B/W auto trans. which I had swapped out for a 700R4. As I understand it, that transmission was made for the 'B' body (big) GM cars -- Caprice, etc., (which were a lot heavier than an Avanti) and were electronically controlled. A couple of kits were installed to adapt it to throttle (only) control. The shift from 1st to 2nd is of higher RPM, probably to get a Caprice (tank) moving, than is required for the Avanti and the shift is 'solid' if accelerating slowly but smooth if accelerating hard. I've not tried adjusting the throttle adjustment but a GM guru I ran into was not surprised. It may just be the nature of the beast with the throttle control. I don't like to dog it so the 1st to 2nd shift gets a little annoying. I've not had any experience with a 350 but the above is something I'd keep in mind. But if you are going the distance to do an engine swap, I'd definitely think GM transmission. An overdrive drop the rpm to ~2150-2200 at 70mph and lets you hear the person sitting next to you.
Regarding the cam and lifter wear. I was not familiar with these sbc motors being notorious for having this trouble but these flat tappet cam engines need zinc. You can read up on this but, as I understand it, zinc molecules in the oil create a microscopic clearance between the lifter to cam lobe and the rod bearing to crank journal surfaces. You can buy ZDDP additive but Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil and Shell Rotella fit this bill. The parts stores often have to order this from their warehouse.
Good luck.