Mel
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Posts posted by Mel
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I had the same problem. If you have access to the older issues, specifically Issue 175 (Summer/Fall 2016, pg. 35), I wrote up my experience. Succinctly, I had a hole in the passenger exhaust manifold which, I think, was original and, I also think, machined to accept a stovepipe which led up to the (engine heated) automatic choke. Mine is a '66 and carbureted but now has a different choke mechanism; I don't know if yours is similarly equipped.
The hole is on the inner side of the manifold and goes up through the exhaust pipe mounting flange into the heat riser mechanism. I started a 5/16-18 regular tap and finished with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap and made about 6 complete threads. Both Noise and exhaust smell significantly reduced.
Good luck.
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Thanks, guys.
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Anyone know where I can get the brake booster valve for my 66. The booster has the keyed hole and the valve twists and locks into place. Studebaker International sent the wrong one and I was told that was the only type they had.
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Update on my note above. I'd replaced the booster and master cylinder and thought I had everything adjusted properly but, apparently not. The braking had a very hard pedal and acted as if the booster wasn't working at all. I performed the check on the booster as referenced in my note above; it was working properly. I placed washers between the booster and m/c for spacers and everything worked properly -- i.e., the rod was adjusted a bit long. Interestingly, the pads were not dragging. Hope this helps.
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There is a You Tube video on checking the operation of the booster -- "BRAKE BOOSTER PERFORMANCE CHECK". He isolates the booster from the system, he actually holds it in his hands at the side of the car, and runs it through the checks.
If the brakes are dragging, you may have the adjustment rod in the end of the booster a bit tight up against the m/c piston which will keep pressure on the piston and, hence, pressure on the pads.
Good luck.
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I agree with Gary above; NEVER cut coil springs. As I understand it, if you cut a coil spring you'll end up with a higher spring constant -- i.e., a firmer ride. Here I'm guessing but if you cut springs, you might not have enough adjustment tolerance for proper alignment, particularly the camber.
You could get some rake by lifting the back end a bit. Eaton makes springs from original spec's and I replaced my back ones, heavy duty version which added another leaf to the mix, which gave the car quite a bit of rake; I actually put some lowering blocks in place to bring it down a bit.
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While replacing my sending unit, I also put some sound deadening material under the seat and behind the back lean. Really seemed to help.
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I had new rear leaf springs put on mine which put it up a bit high. I then put on 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks under the back end which brought it down to a nice height.
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Dan Booth addresses this on page 40 in issue 191, Summer/Fall 2020. Further, he has the parts for the conversion.
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Mine didn't appear warped or in bad shape when it went to the restoration shop but look what was uncovered.
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On some cars of that era, the headlight switch was pulled outward to turn the lights on and the knob was turned to the left and right to brighten and dim the instrument lights; turning it fully to the left, after a perceived stop in the rotation, turned the dome light(s) on. Hope this helps.
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I purchased mine from Eaton Springs. They make them upon order from original spec. sheets. When I called the company, the guy asked if I wanted heavy duty springs; these have one more leaf. I told him OK but it did put the backend of the car up a bit high. I then used 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks to bring it down to a nice height.
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I have no idea whether this will help but my '66 (Corvette 327 powered) had the same problem, as apparently, did a lot of GM's of that era. (Does this apply to yours? I have no idea.)
Apparently, the spring inside the solenoid was a bit strong and would get a bit stronger when hot and lead to the clicking/starter not engaging, yadda, yadda, yadda. (I went through the same things you've done and feel your pain.) According to Jon Meyer, GM actually came out with a factory tech sheet regarding a weaker replacement spring as a fix. In searching old AOAI tech articles, Glenn Bell had addressed this problem in issue 94 on page 23. Summit Racing has a kit, p/n SUM-G1750 which is an external relay and wiring kit which basically ensures that the solenoid gets engaged. I put it on about 5 years ago (very simple procedure) and have not had a single hiccup since. Hope this helps.
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When I had my car painted about 10-11 years ago, I took mine off and never replaced it. I've not missed it at all and it's not affected the paint at all.
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Thanks for the info. Stay safe.
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Suddenly, the idle is a bit rough which smooths out with the brake depressed part way but then gets rough again when depressed fully. At the point of smooth idle, there is a noticeable (screeching) air leak which I can't pinpoint exactly but I believe is coming from the booster. And extra effort is required for braking. No vacuum leaks between the manifold and the booster. I'm pretty sure the booster is not working. Any thoughts/experience? And, any recommendations for a rebuilder.
Thanks in advance.
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For the rear, I ordered them from Eaton. (Eaton Detroit Springs) I called and was told that they make new springs from factory spec. sheets. Two prices were posted, essentially wholesale and retail. I told the guy he could ship them to a friend's body shop for the wholesale price; he said he'd send them to my door for the wholesale price. He then asked if I wanted the heavy duty version for no extra money. I said OK. In hindsight, I'd probably not go with the heavy duty as it set the backend up pretty high. I then placed 1 1/2" lowering blocks under the axle which brought it down to an even (front to back) height.
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What is the trick to removing the wiper arms or is there one? Special tool involved? Thanks.
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Thanks, Brad, for the tip. I've seen that before but had forgotten about it.
1inxs: I had a (second) spring setup similar to yours which I felt wasn't doing much besides making the pedal pressure required greater. The air cleaner is what came with the car when I bought it 12+ years ago. Its bottom edge is below the level of the carburetor; hence, the need for the bent linkage. Perhaps I should try to find a different air cleaner which will accomodate the PCV system.
Thanks, guys.
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My '66 has the Studebaker linkage from the pedal to the top of the engine. The linkage to the carburetor is bent to pass under the air cleaner. (See photo.) Does anyone have a setup that is more direct with less slop and play?
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In Stan Gundry's book "What The Shop Manual Won't Tell You" he has a write up on your question on pages 32-33. Basically, he suggests getting a set of red lenses to replace the clear lenses for the backup bulbs. (Apparently red lenses were used in place of the clear lenses for the 84-85 years.) You then parallel wire bulb sockets, which accommodate the 1157 bulbs, and place the bulb sockets in the backup light housing. He suggests a 7.5 amp fuse in the stoplight circuit. He then suggests attaching some halogen lights on either side of the license plate and wiring these in to the backup light circuit.
If you primary worry is safety, what I did on mine was (silicon) glue 1/2" and 1" square mirrors, available at craft stores, inside the housings, on top, bottom, sides and back. The metal foil disintegrates but the mirrors make it quite bright. I did this on both the back and front housings. (The 1/2" mirrors fit perfectly on the backs of the front bulb housings.) Also, I have an after-market center mounted brake light in the back window.
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This is a follow up to the 'Electrical Plug Location' posting a few weeks back. I was trying to locate the connector plug which feeds the dome lights and trunk light; this plug is located above the steering column not far from the firewall. On the Avantis using the Studebaker wiring harness, you can use a toggle switch, a 12 volt relay and a bit of wire, to have the dome lights turn on/off automatically with the door opening/closing or turned on manually if, for example, the doors are closed. Further, if you wanted to keep the door(s) open for an extended period, the toggle switch can be set to center off and no power will be fed to the lights. I'm in the process of writing this up for the AOAI magazine which will have more detail and some photographs but the wiring diagram is attached here. I'm very pleased with the result.
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The plug is located directly above the steering column. The above is basically correct but the grounding of the relay is by #37G which feeds into the plug. I spliced into #36 on the 'downstream' side of the plug and into #37G on the upstream side of the plug. (#37G is grounded through the door switches and feeds into the plug but not out.) Both #36 and #37G can be spliced into with not much more effort than many other things under the dash.
The switch, as noted above, is a double throw switch with AUTO-OFF-ON positions. This allows the feed to the dome lights to be controlled by the door opening/closing, turned off completely, or turned on manually. The switches at the dome lights must be ON and can be left on permanently. For judging, the switch can be placed in the manual position and the domes switched turned on/off as required and the courtesy lamp will operate normally.
I know the above is not complete as the feed to the hot side of the relay also feeds the center contact of the relay and the downside of #36 feeds the 'engaged' terminal of the relay. I tried describing this above and it made no sense when I read it back. I'll write this up for the AOAI magazine. I'm really pleased with the way it works.
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I originally posted this on the '65-'83 section below. On the Studebaker and early II Avanti's, there is an (eight conductor) electrical plug which is drawn just below the 'Courtesy Lamp' which feeds the dome lamps, trunk lamp, gas tank sender unit, etc. Does anyone know where this plug is located? Thanks!
Fuel tank problems/removel
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Fuel delivery problem to the carburetor; filter is good. Fuel pump replacement didn't help; this was a lot of fun as the (replacement) outlet is angled a bit closer to the crossmember. I have a shutoff solenoid under the car right at the bottom of the tank; solenoid is operative as I can blow into the inlet and it opens well when power is applied. Upon removal of the 'pinch' clamp on the outlet from the tank, I have no fuel flow. (I know the tank has at least 4 gallons in it as I initially thought I'd run of gas.)
I think I'll have to remove the tank and go from there. I've read that apparently the baffles can let go and possibly fall above the outlet. I believe the car has always been garaged. Is it worth trying to remove just the outlet fitting and trying to 'root out' the plug there? (I know this has to come out anyway if I decide to take the tank out.)
If the tank seems 'a mess', is a replacement tank the way to go or have it opened up and repaired.
Anybody got any ideas/advice? Thanks in advance.