Mel
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Posts posted by Mel
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As you know, the gas tank on these cars sits on a ledge behind the back seat and, if the carb float valve sticks open, gas will flow into the carb, engine, out on the pavement, etc., unchecked. From what you describe, it sounds like this was not your problem but, as have others, I put a check valve (electric solenoid) under the car at the tank outlet and wired it (through a concealed barrel switch) into the ignition switch. If the barrel switch is off and the car is stolen and hotwire started, it will not be driven far. See Avanti Magazine, issue #170, pg. 48 for specifics. Good luck!
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Bad grounds can cause all kinds of weird problems. Bottom line, the more grounds (everywhere) the better. Good luck.
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The temperature sender on the block is basically a heat sensitive resistor which, as the temperature rises, decreases in value and sends higher voltage to the gauge which is essentially a voltmeter measuring up to 12v. On a very hot engine, the resistance value drops to 0 ohms allowing full voltage to the gauge which then reads (pegged) hot. I'd start by replacing the temperature sender, hooking things back up and going from there. Good luck.
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I'd use this opportunity to have the heater core pressure checked and repaired as needed. Good luck.
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The vent flaps were made of fiberboard, or something like it, and disintegrate with time. Mine were in very bad shape when I bought the car; you may have the same problem. You will have a lot of heat coming in the cowling if you don't have the seal at the back of the hood and your vent flaps are not closing or are in very bad shape. (If you have access to the AOAI magazine, issue #170, page 49, I wrote up in fair detail what I did to fix the flaps; Reader's Digest version follows.)
To repair a flap (I'll speak singularly) remove the cover and disengage the cable. Push down on the bottom where the pivot rod enters the 'mount' and push up on the pivot rod itself, then pull the bottom of the pivot rod toward you; this removes the flap valve. I made a template from paperboard and then cut the final flap from thick gauge aluminum. Attached the flap to the pivot rod with pop rivets. Reverse to reinstall. Having the front seats out is a must.
If yours acts like the vents are not opening or closing, the screws which hold the cables in place under the control panel may be lose letting the cables slide back and forth with the action of the levers.
Good luck.
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Fuel delivery problem to the carburetor; filter is good. Fuel pump replacement didn't help; this was a lot of fun as the (replacement) outlet is angled a bit closer to the crossmember. I have a shutoff solenoid under the car right at the bottom of the tank; solenoid is operative as I can blow into the inlet and it opens well when power is applied. Upon removal of the 'pinch' clamp on the outlet from the tank, I have no fuel flow. (I know the tank has at least 4 gallons in it as I initially thought I'd run of gas.)
I think I'll have to remove the tank and go from there. I've read that apparently the baffles can let go and possibly fall above the outlet. I believe the car has always been garaged. Is it worth trying to remove just the outlet fitting and trying to 'root out' the plug there? (I know this has to come out anyway if I decide to take the tank out.)
If the tank seems 'a mess', is a replacement tank the way to go or have it opened up and repaired.
Anybody got any ideas/advice? Thanks in advance.
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I had the same problem. If you have access to the older issues, specifically Issue 175 (Summer/Fall 2016, pg. 35), I wrote up my experience. Succinctly, I had a hole in the passenger exhaust manifold which, I think, was original and, I also think, machined to accept a stovepipe which led up to the (engine heated) automatic choke. Mine is a '66 and carbureted but now has a different choke mechanism; I don't know if yours is similarly equipped.
The hole is on the inner side of the manifold and goes up through the exhaust pipe mounting flange into the heat riser mechanism. I started a 5/16-18 regular tap and finished with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap and made about 6 complete threads. Both Noise and exhaust smell significantly reduced.
Good luck.
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Thanks, guys.
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Anyone know where I can get the brake booster valve for my 66. The booster has the keyed hole and the valve twists and locks into place. Studebaker International sent the wrong one and I was told that was the only type they had.
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Update on my note above. I'd replaced the booster and master cylinder and thought I had everything adjusted properly but, apparently not. The braking had a very hard pedal and acted as if the booster wasn't working at all. I performed the check on the booster as referenced in my note above; it was working properly. I placed washers between the booster and m/c for spacers and everything worked properly -- i.e., the rod was adjusted a bit long. Interestingly, the pads were not dragging. Hope this helps.
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There is a You Tube video on checking the operation of the booster -- "BRAKE BOOSTER PERFORMANCE CHECK". He isolates the booster from the system, he actually holds it in his hands at the side of the car, and runs it through the checks.
If the brakes are dragging, you may have the adjustment rod in the end of the booster a bit tight up against the m/c piston which will keep pressure on the piston and, hence, pressure on the pads.
Good luck.
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I agree with Gary above; NEVER cut coil springs. As I understand it, if you cut a coil spring you'll end up with a higher spring constant -- i.e., a firmer ride. Here I'm guessing but if you cut springs, you might not have enough adjustment tolerance for proper alignment, particularly the camber.
You could get some rake by lifting the back end a bit. Eaton makes springs from original spec's and I replaced my back ones, heavy duty version which added another leaf to the mix, which gave the car quite a bit of rake; I actually put some lowering blocks in place to bring it down a bit.
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While replacing my sending unit, I also put some sound deadening material under the seat and behind the back lean. Really seemed to help.
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I had new rear leaf springs put on mine which put it up a bit high. I then put on 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks under the back end which brought it down to a nice height.
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Dan Booth addresses this on page 40 in issue 191, Summer/Fall 2020. Further, he has the parts for the conversion.
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Mine didn't appear warped or in bad shape when it went to the restoration shop but look what was uncovered.
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On some cars of that era, the headlight switch was pulled outward to turn the lights on and the knob was turned to the left and right to brighten and dim the instrument lights; turning it fully to the left, after a perceived stop in the rotation, turned the dome light(s) on. Hope this helps.
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I purchased mine from Eaton Springs. They make them upon order from original spec. sheets. When I called the company, the guy asked if I wanted heavy duty springs; these have one more leaf. I told him OK but it did put the backend of the car up a bit high. I then used 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks to bring it down to a nice height.
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I have no idea whether this will help but my '66 (Corvette 327 powered) had the same problem, as apparently, did a lot of GM's of that era. (Does this apply to yours? I have no idea.)
Apparently, the spring inside the solenoid was a bit strong and would get a bit stronger when hot and lead to the clicking/starter not engaging, yadda, yadda, yadda. (I went through the same things you've done and feel your pain.) According to Jon Meyer, GM actually came out with a factory tech sheet regarding a weaker replacement spring as a fix. In searching old AOAI tech articles, Glenn Bell had addressed this problem in issue 94 on page 23. Summit Racing has a kit, p/n SUM-G1750 which is an external relay and wiring kit which basically ensures that the solenoid gets engaged. I put it on about 5 years ago (very simple procedure) and have not had a single hiccup since. Hope this helps.
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When I had my car painted about 10-11 years ago, I took mine off and never replaced it. I've not missed it at all and it's not affected the paint at all.
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Thanks for the info. Stay safe.
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Suddenly, the idle is a bit rough which smooths out with the brake depressed part way but then gets rough again when depressed fully. At the point of smooth idle, there is a noticeable (screeching) air leak which I can't pinpoint exactly but I believe is coming from the booster. And extra effort is required for braking. No vacuum leaks between the manifold and the booster. I'm pretty sure the booster is not working. Any thoughts/experience? And, any recommendations for a rebuilder.
Thanks in advance.
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For the rear, I ordered them from Eaton. (Eaton Detroit Springs) I called and was told that they make new springs from factory spec. sheets. Two prices were posted, essentially wholesale and retail. I told the guy he could ship them to a friend's body shop for the wholesale price; he said he'd send them to my door for the wholesale price. He then asked if I wanted the heavy duty version for no extra money. I said OK. In hindsight, I'd probably not go with the heavy duty as it set the backend up pretty high. I then placed 1 1/2" lowering blocks under the axle which brought it down to an even (front to back) height.
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What is the trick to removing the wiper arms or is there one? Special tool involved? Thanks.
mrfeez
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
You might check with All American Carburetors, Inc. in FL. 904-215-6790. They had about a 12 week backlog when I sent mine. Good luck.