Jump to content

Mel

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mel

  1. Thanks for the feedback,guys. Basically, my problem is it just doesn't seem to idle, accelerate, run, etc., smoothly. I'm beginning to think I may be spoiled by the electronic fuel injection in everything else I own.

    In the Avanti: good, even compression; ignition is good; idle vacuum, on an undamped gauge, is steady so I don't think any valves are sticking.

    Essentially, I was wondering what particular setup others had found that works well -- which accelerator cam, which vacuum secondary spring, should the restrictor ball be left out in the vacuum secondary, etc.

    And, is the available gas (93 octane with ethanol) a big part of the problem? Are people using octane boost and to what octane level are they trying to get the gas in the tank.

    Thanks for the tips and links, guys.

    Mel

  2. '66 327/300 hp Corvette motor with the PowerShift transmission and, I think, a 3.07 rear axle. The ignition is in good shape. It has the Holley 4160-3367 carburator which, from looking at catalogs, Corvette apparently used for a couple of years in the 66-67 era. If you've played around with this carb., you know it has several points of adjustment. I've bought a couple of the adjustment kits and am wondering if anyone has extensive experience with the setup. Specifically,

    1. Which color accelerator pump cam works best?

    2. Which vacuum spring? Originally, my secondary was not working at all due to the diaphragm not seating. It is now seated and the diaphragm will retract (under load) if the secondary throttle plate is disconnected, but will not retract if connected. The throttle plate does not appear to be binding at all. I'm thinking I need a weaker spring in the vacuum secondary??

    3. I read that, for the 3367, take out the restrictor ball which is between the secondary diaphragm and the (carb.) body. This now allows the diaphragm to retract, as in #2 above, but I'm wondering why it was in there in the first place if it shouldn't be.

    4. I've not changed the pump shot nozzle and do not know what size it is.

    5. I've read that, if you run the idle jets in fully and the engine stalls, the power valve is working properly. Plus, from what I've read, this valve is apparently not as critical as some of the other adjustments.

    6. I run the 93 octane gas, the highest you can get in North Carolina. Plus, it "MAY CONTAIN UP TO 10% ETHANOL." I put a bit of octane boost in the tank whenever I fill up but am not sure if it is helping. I'm thinking the gas is a fair part of the problem.

    7. Which spark plug seems to work best? Platinum? Regular? Does it matter?

    Many thanks for the feedback.

    Mel

  3. Hope this post isn't too late to be of help. After I bought my '66, I found out some of the wiring was fried. I initially thought about trying to replace just the wiring but ended up taking the dash out and doing an extensive 'under dash' rework. From what you'd have to do to take the instrument cluster out, I think you could go just a bit further and take the dash out as the hardest part is getting all that stuff on the cluster loose. I replaced the (totally deteriorated) boot around the brake rod, fixed a pin-hole leak in the heater core (which had not reared its ugly head up to that point because I bought the car in early summer and had not used the heater up until the time I took the dash down) and replaced the hoses, fabricated new 'doors' and seals for the side air vents seals, replaced the totally rotted defroster hoses, changed all instrument dash bulbs, oiled up all the vent and heater control cables, etc. I'd suggest getting your ideas together to do all these things, including of course changing your fried wiring, at one time as taking the dash down is kind of a pain but totally doable. Hope this helps.

  4. '66 with the 327/300 Chev. motor. I'm thinking of putting on an electronic ignition (EI) setup. A local guy who builds racing engines assures me that, for about $100, I'll have a much better ignition system -- more reliable spark, better advance curve, ... and that it essentially sits inside the distributor cap. He also says I just need a 12v supply. With the 'thermistor' wire from the ignition, I'm getting about 4v to the coil at 'run', 12v on 'start' circuit, as normal. So, a couple of questions:

    1. Experience (+/-) with a particular type of EI setup,

    2. The tach sending unit is driven by the points. Is the original tach set up compatible with an EI setup?

    Thanks.

  5. Putting new bearings, etc., on the rear axles on my '66. As such, brake backing plates come off and, upon replacement, I bled the cylinders. DOT 3 fluid is much more expensive than synthetic at the local AutoZone -- literally, several times more expensive. I've owned the car about two years and, as I do not know the history of a brake system overhaul, or if there even has been one in the last few years, I'd at least like to flush the entire system. None of the front or rear cylinders leak and brakes are good but the fluid I bled out of the back cylinders was somewhat cloudy. I'd guess that synthetic fluid would not harm a system as long as I flushed the entire system, but I do not know. Does anyone?

  6. Question is...does your car want to stall with the A/C on? If not don't worry about the idle compensator.

    Good question. I've just gotten it back and haven't 'shaken' it down enough yet to see if I actually need one. Thanks.

    ErnieR

  7. It looks like someone changed the carburetor on your car sometime in the past. Holley makes a compensator for their carbs...they call it a dash pot. It's available from Summit Racing. They list several mounting brackets...they say universal but I would get the model number off your carburetor before buying one blind.

    Thanks for the info.

  8. Does your 327 still use the Carter AFB carburetor? If so, it will probably use the dashpot or idle compensator that was used on R1's and R2's. I believe Studebaker International and Jon Myers carry reproductions of them. You might check with Edelbrock to see if their electric a/c idle compensators will work on an original AFB. If so you can get one of theirs from Summit Racing or Jegs...they're not really inexpensive but the repro dashpots aren't either.

    If your engine has a Quadrajet, you'll have to source a compensator from NAPA or someplace similar. Maybe even Corvette parts suppliers like Corvette Central, Eckler's or other might have it, but I believe Avanti Motors didn't begin receiving Quadrajets in place of the AFB until 1969.

    Edelbrock's compensator would be my first choice if it can be used on an AFB, otherwise get a repro unit from Myers or SI...my opinion only.

  9. The A/C did not work on my 66 with the 327 Corvette motor when I bought it and I replaced the compressor with one from Vintage Air. As I write this, I've got it in an A/C shop, having the guy evacuate the system and recharge it with R134. (A tag under the hood indicates it had been charged with 134 some time back.) It does not have an idle boost for when the A/C is engaged and I need to know if anyone knows the setup, where I can get one, etc. Many thanks!

  10. As Ernier noted, changing the rear leaf springs made all the difference in my '66, also. (I also put on new front and rear shocks.) My springs were so sagged they were sagged slightly beyond level, not even slightly curved upward.

    Eaton makes springs for all kinds of cars and makes them up after you order them; they have the plans and make them up new. I was hesitant to order NOS springs from a Stude parts dealer thinking they might have lost some of their 'springiness' if left sitting around for 35-40 years, probably not but I certainly don't know. Anyway, I called Eaton (313-963-6820 www.eatonsprings.com) and they had regular and heavy duty springs -- same price. $479.00 plus shipping which was cheaper then NOS. They had two prices listed, one of which, I believe, was for a garage to purchase and the other for you and me. I told the guy on the phone I was having some work done at a garage (which was true) and could have the garage purchase them for the cheaper price and sent to the garage or he could sell them to me for the cheaper price and send them to me. He didn't hesitate at all, sold them to me for the cheaper price and sent them straight to my doorstep. Perfect fit.

    As I said earlier, regular and heavy duty were the same price. I think they just add another leaf but I'm not sure. I got heavy duty and they really raise the back end of the car up pretty high. I think, to do it again, I'd probably get regular duty as the heavy duty probably set it up higher than the stock 63-64 which, as we all know had more of a rake than the '65 and on models. I like the aggressive rake but it is a bit much.

    Good luck.

  11. I guess your battery could have suddenly developed an open cell but that does seem doubtful. I'd first take a meter to be sure you've got a good battery. If that's the case with the meter probes on the battery posts, you may have a bad connection on the battery post. If I were you, I'd start at the battery with a meter and work forward.

    For instance: If you have a good battery and battery post connections, I'd disconnect the positive cable on the battery and remove the ignition switch, but not the wires leading to it, from the back of the panel. (This is to make sure you don't short the battery terminal on the switch to the metal bar behind the switch.) Then, making sure the terminals of the switch aren't against anything, reconnect the battery. Then take a meter and be sure you have power coming to the switch terminal labelled 'Bat'. You can turn your switch to the various positions to see if you have power there. You can use your meter to see if you have power to the fuse block, etc. You should have power to the fuse block for the lights circuit even with the switch in the off position.

    My guess is it's something simple. Good luck.

  12. I would check to determine whether the hinge pin is significantly worn. You could try having the door open a few inches and grab the bottom of the door up under the bottom hinge and see if you can manually push the top of the door inward. If you can, your hinge pin on top may be worn or, if this era has bushings, the bushings may be worn. Studebaker Int'l has hinge parts through '85. Good luck.

  13. I recently had the dash out of my '66 which gave me more room to get the fan out but it was still not terribly easy; I don't know if it can be done without taking the dash out or not. If you have access to earlier issues of AOAI magazine, check out Issue 82, page 38. This tells how to get the dash 'down' -- i.e., pulled back but not out -- far enough to do most jobs; the described procedure will probably let you get the dash pulled back far enough to do the job. If you don't have the earlier issues, AOAI sells a CD-ROM for $95.00 which includes the entire contents (pictures, text and all) of issues 1-141 of the AOAI magazine (.pdf files). When AOAI prints their magazine supplement, they include a GREAT listing of all the articles, Tech-tips, letters of 'here's what worked for me' tips, etc. This CD is a very worthwhile investment. (By the way, the author of the above referenced article says he can get his dash 'down' in 15 minutes and back in the same time -- he's done it several times, apparently.)

    If you're a first timer doing this, I'd allow an afternoon to get it down and another to get it back in place; if you're taking it 'out', I'd allow a day each way for standing up and stretching, drinking a beer, losing your religion, etc. The four nuts which hold the dash up under the windshield are challenging. If you don't have a magnetic socket, you can get 'fun tack' -- essentially sticky but non-stick (oxymoron) rubber -- from a kid's hobby store and cram it in the end of the socket to hold the nut in the socket until you get it started. Some of it may stick to the nut when you pull the socket away, no worries.)

    I took my dash out following the shop manual which was pretty accurate. (I removed the oil line from the gauge early in the process which allowed easier access to the vacuum gauge which, depending on the length of the hose, you may or may not have to loosen if you only take the dash 'down'.) If you decide to take the dash 'out', remove the front seats and steering wheel. If you decide to try starting with taking the dash 'down', I'd still remove the passenger's seat to get to the fan. No matter how you do it -- 'out' or 'down' -- be sure to tag EVERYTHING.

    Studebaker Int'l has new 'heater core housing to kick panel', 'core housing to motor', and 'motor to firewall' gaskets. I'd replace these; they're cheap. At the least, you could inspect them after getting the fan out and order replacements as needed from SI. The grommets on the firewall where the heater hoses pass through are available. I'd certainly change the heater hoses and clamps, unless you know their history. I'd take the heater core to a radiator shop and have it flushed and pressure tested. While you're at it, check the condition of the hoses from the plenum to the defroster outlets. The original (mine, anyway) were tar impregnated cloth around wire and they rot after awhile; mine essentially fell apart in my hands. The hose is available from SI also. Check the 'flapper' valves in the side vents; the rubber on the edges usually falls apart and you have air leaks. The SI catalog lists the rubber seals for the edges of the flappers. (I made new flapper valves out of sheet aluminum, riveted the hardware from the originals to the new plates and made some 'seals' for the edges from an old inner tube and glued them to the plates. The original flapper plates were essentially hard pasteboard and humidity had taken its toll. You can certainly take care of the vents without taking the dash out or down.)

    WHen you tackle this, think of what all you might want to do and do it all at once -- change all dash light bulbs, reroute any radio/CD/speaker wiring, lubricate all your heater and vent cables, etc.,; this is not a task you want to do often. Between assessing things as the task went on and ordering more parts, my dash was out for about a month but I don't intend to ever take it down again.

    Mel RQA-0108

  14. Not sure why you're not getting power to the (trunk lid) brake lights but don't run just one wire from one of the fender brake lights to both trunk lid lights. If you do, you'll mess up your signal light circuit, the result being both trunk lid brake light filaments blinking when the right or left fender brake light is blinking, depending on which (left or right) filament you tied into.

  15. The cowling at the base of the windshield feeds air to the vents on the side kick panels and to the air inlet for the heater just above the right vent. Under the center of each cowling grill is a raised 1-1/2" OD 'fitting' which feeds through behind the dash. A flexible hose attaches to this fitting (behind the dash) which then, on my '66 anyway, empties into the front of the transmission shifter mounting and onto the ground. The only function I can see these would serve is if the water outlets under the side vents were so completely plugged that the water backed up into the cowling so high that it ran over and spilled into them to drain out the bottom; however, prior to the water getting this high, the water would leak into the kick panel vents and spill into the heater plenum. The only other function I can see for these is if they feed into the A/C system and mine have been 'rerouted' by a previous owner. If not, I'm thinking of plugging these up. Anyone have any input/thoughts?

  16. Thanks for all the tips; the magnetized tool is a good one. Gundry's book notes one of the 'shorts waiting to happen' is the steel plate behind the ignition switch rubbing the center post on the switch. It looks like about a half inch or so of that steel plate could be ground down to reduce that threat. Any experience with this? Thanks again.

  17. Gentlemen, Thanks for the ideas.

    My speaker grill does not have the 4 screws up top and, although I can see the two screws on the left side of the speaker, I can't see or get to the other two so I think I'll probably pull the dash.

    I have a 63-64 shop manual and Stan Gundry's manual and, although a lengthy procedure, removing the dash doesn't look too difficult. Any idea of how long a first-timer would require?

    The idea about bulb replacement was a good one. I'd thought about removing the steering wheel, also. Will a standard gear puller work? Does the lever on the signal light switch come off easily? I'd probably remove it to keep from breaking it. I think I'll replace the heater, defroster and A/C ductwork also. Thanks for the tip about using the same color and gauge wiring.

    Any other tips will be appreciated. Thanks again.

  18. My recently purchased '66 has had rather extensive 're-wiring' under the dash, including an aftermarket radio which has both front and rear outputs but only one set hooked up. I'd like to hook up the other set but I believe the wires are buried up under the indash speaker. I can't determine if the glove box comes out, whether the speaker comes out, or if I need to remove the dash.The car has A/C and removing the front panel from that gets me nowhere that I can see. I am considering removing the dash as there have obviously been some major shorts in the past but if I could get to everything without going that route, I may. I found a link under one of the forum questions in this section -- 'http://tinyurl.com/8fdyd' -- which supposedly told how to remove the radio but the article doesn't open. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

×
×
  • Create New...