Paul K.
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Posts posted by Paul K.
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If you decide to proceed with this Avanti, have it professionally inspected, preferably by a body shop. A 1/2" panel gap is beyond poor build quality. The car may have been in a major accident. Or, a minor accident with a major botch job on the repair.
Either way, you will find out whether to walk from the car or what it will cost to make it right again. -
Ken, I sent you a private message. PK
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From the size, it looked like it came from a Lincoln Town Car or Town Coupe'.
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A coupe of things to add to the already accurate info from everyone.
The '76 had a crossover "Y" pipe off the motor next a Catalytic converter and then split into two mufflers and tailpipes. This is called a cat back system. Sounds like someone converted it to a 74 and earlier style exhaust. I would keep that unless you have emission laws to comply with.
Who knows what the motor is today unless you have ALL THE RECORDS. My 76 was ALL original and had the emission de-tuned SBC 400. I installed a 1970 Corvette grind cam for the 350/350 hp motor and flat to pistons to replaced the low compression dished ones.
My 76 had Corvette style ignition shielding complete from the distributor cover, tower style wire separators, and flat covers that hugged the side of the engine block and housed the wires before they met the plugs. If you google "Corvette Ignition Shielding" you will find many sources of repro sets.
I would also do the seafoam BEFORE the carb work.
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My 76 had an ASC brand sunroof installed when new. Avanti later went to the Skytop brand but not sure what year. My ASC sunroof glass panel was BIG. It was a piece of CARLITE brand glass (Ford). A good guess would be if yours is the same you have an ASC.
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Makes you wonder how many SBC 400s were unknowingly swapped out with 350s when is was rebuild time. I have owned three Avanti IIs that had the 400s and they are a nice torquey power plant.
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Nice Avanti. I noticed it on Ebay a couple of months ago. Regarding Spark plugs, I also prefer NGKs or AC in that order for my GM engines.
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That Avanti is such a BEAST. I would love to drive it.
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The "monstrosity" comment may have been true as Nate Altman Avantis were designed to focus more on being a Luxury GT and not a hot rod. Tires are so much better today, however, I've looked at that video quite a few times during this last year and it looks like the "twin traction" is not working.
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I have experienced the driver's side exhaust pipe at the manifold so not to come in contact with the pitman arm needing to be bent into a somewhat ugly curve and flattened some. It takes a good exhaust guy with patience to do this as clean as possible.
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I have heard that 74 was the last year for the Studebaker steering box which had a tighter ratio than the 75 and up. The quick steering arms available from our vendors are supposed to make the 75 and up steer like the 74 and back models. I recently went through the whole steering column thing and yours should have an AMC column which is actually a GM column with an AMC part #. It can be confusing because Avanti installed Chrysler ignition locks in these columns. Probably because the Studebaker door locks I was told by a locksmith are or are really close to MOPAR blanks. This way the door lock and ignition keys could be the same. Both Chrysler (MOPAR) and GM ignition locks will fit these GM columns.
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I believe much of the bad rap spoken about the original Bendix system and vintage vehicle braking is that the old lining material (asbestos) is no longer used. Granted, the Turner system has a larger swept area for a better coefficient of friction and many more choices for pad materials i.e ceramic, but the original Bendix system when right has always performed well for me. The original Bendix works well with the correct pads as seen in this Avanti II road test from 1969. 65 mph stops in 128 ft. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g85RbmNkKqA
Here are some ideas for brake pads: If you contact a place that relines brake shoes and pads like for heavy trucks, they MAY be able to reline your worn pads with a better stopping material or asbestos depending on state laws, but I think the ban of asbestos is countrywide. I contacted Covina Brake and Valley Friction, both in Southern CA and although they said asbestos is no longer available. One mentioned they have been working with "another material" which provides better braking for the older cars. Or... Since Avantis use Jaguar pads as mentioned earlier, you may have good luck contacting a technical advisor from the Jaguar Club as they have surely gone down this road before and may have a relining source. Or... since they are Jaguar pads, you might find a source for asbestos pads in England/UK/Europe. I did a search on this exact subject some time ago and asbestos was available there then. Finally, your easiest route would be to install a set of Ferodo pads which are available for E-type Jaguars. Ferodo is a brand of performance brake pads used on many European cars. I'm not exactly sure what they are made of but I install them on my Bentley and they are a quality product and stop well. In fact, the R-R/Bentley factory pads are re-boxed Ferodos. O'reilly Auto parts can special order Ferodos.
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This has always been a HOT TOPIC with Rolls-Royce, Bentley and other exotic cars. The filter for my Bentley from the dealer is up to about $35.00. Myself and others use NAPA GOLD filters and BOSCH with no problems. I agree with Bruce, stay away from FRAM. Here is a really good link below with oil filter comparison that I have referred to for years. I hope the guy updates it again soon.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
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Will check out SDC. Thanks.
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I am looking for some Mustang wheels for my 74 Avanti II. They are 16"x7", bolt pattern is 5 x 4 1/2 , the offset is 39 and the Hub bore is 2 3/4". The bolt pattern is OK, but I am not sure of the offset and I am not near the car to see if our wheels are hub or lug-centric? Would like to find out if these wheels will fit?
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I also read the Chevy engine was a bit taller requiring the raise. People that lower their Avanti IIs to get the Stude rake have hood clearance problems unless they use a REALLY short air cleaner.
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The Studebakers and Avanti IIs did not have any insulation underneath or behind the back seat. This is a place to upgrade and install some modern DynaMat insulation or similar.
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If you can see the ground, then they are not supposed to be there. Water and exhaust fumes will enter from there. If the holes are large, I would patch the holes with some fiberglass, either a carefully cut piece or since this area is hidden, some of that shredded "Kitty Hair", "Tiger Hair" or "Gorilla Hair", all the same stuff. If the holes are an inch or less in diameter you can plug them up with some 3M Strip Caulk, some people call it "Dumb-Dumb". It is automotive sealer for windows, etc. that stays pliable and soft so it seals. The factory used this on Avantis to seal the back seat panel the one with the many screws between the rear seat back and the gas tank. You will need to buy some of this stuff any way to reseal that piece so I would go with that if the holes are small. All these items are available from NAPA.
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Should have checked Bob Johnstone's site first. Found them. What a great site. Bob deserves an honorary trophy at Avanti car shows or something for all his hard work he has done for us.
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I can't find my notes that have listed the interchange #s for the 3 flexible rubber brakes hoses. They are the same for Studebaker and Avanti II. Anybody have them? Thanks.
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Yes, the 400s can have the problems mentioned. I have gotten lucky on my first '74 and '76. They never ran hot even the '74 with the A/C on going to the 40th Avanti anniversary in Palm Springs back in '01. I rebuilt the '76 400 after my ex-girlfriend (stress on EX!) practically blew it up. The block was clean and rebuilt fine.
All three of my Avanti IIs with the 400s had the Rochester 4 bbl carbs and two had the Avanti factory carb spec sheets to go with them factory paperwork. I am sure they came with the 4 bbl carbs when new.
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Avanti Motors made a quite a few running changes. I have read that the SBC 400 was offered from '72-77. Their advertising boasted Corvette motors through '71 and the vehicles had the Corvette finned valve covers. I also read that if you ordered a 4-speed, during those years you got a 2-barrel carb and automatics got the 4 barrel. '74 was the last year for the 4-speed. I just purchased my third Avanti II a '74, The two priors were another '74 and a '76. They all had/have 400s and 3:31 rear ends with automatic transmissions. The '76 was the only one with ignition shielding and it really dresses up the engine compartment. It also keeps the ignition wires contained in housings that hug the side of the block. This is a plus on the driver's side where things are really tight near the steering box.
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The LMA container shown on Castrol's website is their old container, the new one can be found if you dig a little. The person at Castrol said that their LMA has always been synthetic it just was not advertised as one. The LM stands for "low moisture" and it absorbs less moisture. Synthetic is not a DOT 5, however because of its raised boiling point it exceeds DOT 3 and 4 specs. DOT 5 (silicone) has no wet boiling point because it does not absorb moisture so any brake fluid with a wet boiling point spec is not a silicone.
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This thread did not sound right based on what I have learned and read over the years so I called Castrol Oil this morning and asked them. I have used their GT LMA brake fluid for years and it too has been reformulated and is advertised as a synthetic.
I had a good talk with the service engineer there and spoke of too much to list here but the bottom line on brake fluid (according to Castrol) is that synthetic brake fluid IS NOT silicone brake fluid and IS COMPATIBLE with DOT 3 and 4 fluids.
I also remember silicone brake fluids being a purple color and about $20 or more a qt.
engine cooling '63 R1
in 1963-64 Avanti
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Makes sense, straight water has better heat transfer abilities than glycol.
BTW, since you have a Stude engine, don't overlook possible blocked water jackets/passages in the block as your cause for a hot running engine. These engines are notorious for that. Even when the engine seems to flush clean, there can be solid packed debris in the water jackets usually the rear cylinders. Remove a rear freeze plug to check. If you see junk in the jacket, get ready for a messy job. Don't forget your shower cap!