Paul K.
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Posts posted by Paul K.
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Happy to help. I have restored and owned MANY 60s and 70s Cadillacs during the last 30 years.
Newman and Altman offered more than a few Cadillac colors especially the optional "Firemist" colors that were slightly irridescent with a slightly larger metal flake than the standard "Poly" colors. I remembered San Mateo Red was offered in 1970 for Cadillac. From the photo of your car and the the color chip below, I would say that SM Red could be your color, or at the least a good place to start for a color match.
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On 3/12/2020 at 2:41 PM, silverstude said:
My 70 was delivered with metallic lime green paint and an interior using avocado vinyl with black, white and yellow houndstooth seat inserts.... YahHhhhh! I bought it as a demo car and the interior only lasted a few months before I had the seats reupholstered in olive green suede.
NICE!!!!!.
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On 3/11/2020 at 8:29 AM, TED DIMON said:
Thanks for the reminder of the different placement for the square headlight models. The paint is the original color: San Mateo Red. The build sheet indicates that it was a special order. And yes, I was at the Wings and Wheels Show on March 7th which was held at the Sky Ranch Airport in Carefree, AZ. I live just a mile away.
San Mateo Red is a Cadillac color as were many Avanti II colors.
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20 hours ago, Avanti83 said:
My 74 frame cracked in both motor mount areas of the frame. While most will probably blame the 400 SBC mine had a 350 as the OP didn't want the 400. It was due to missing washers under the nuts that made contact with the frame and resulted in point loading that caused the failure. One of the reasons I contend my 83 was much better is the higher level of assembly, fit and finish of the later ones.
Yes, your earlier quote was the one I was referring to. Sounds like the same person installed the motors on our 74s.
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Not sure if this is an Avanti Urban Legend but I heard that the earlier the Avanti II was, the better in regard to the frames. Apparently, Avanti Co. stored their frames piled up like firewood outside in the weather. The newer the Avanti II, the rustier and weaker the frames were. Of course the frames were cleaned up and painted before building cars but they were not stored properly. Also, I think later on they ran out of Lark convertible frames and welded in the X crossmember to standard frames. Not a big deal if the welding is good. On the earlier motor mount comment from anither poster, I had a 74 Avanti that had the left motor mount area of the frame cracked. But I also had a 72, and a 76 with no issues in this area.
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On 12/20/2006 at 11:40 AM, James T said:
Well, the '77 Avanti II I asked about in an earlier post now sits in my garage. It is everything the owner claimed and a wonderful piece of rolling sculpture. However, it has a leaking ASC sunroof (metal panel) and the previous owner never opened it because it is misadjusted and might scratch the (admittedly perfect paint).
FWIW, ASC also offered their sunroof with glass panels during the Altman years. My '76 RQ-B 2431 had an ASC sunroof / moonroof with a very large glass panel. I had the same emergency hex key in the tan ASC envelope. I never cross-referenced the panel part number but the glass had a FoMoCo script etching. I would bet the same panel was used on 70s Lincoln Town Cars and other full-size Ford vehicles.
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I had an issue with a rear window seal almost 20 years ago. One of the vendors sent me one that was not wide enough to bridge the body gap. Bought another from a different vendor and it was good. Not sure what the situation is today. Haven't heard any problems with the windshield gaskets. BTW, I don't know if the rear side pop out window gaskets are being reproduced again but they were NLA for a long time. I bought my last set from Metro the same time I did the rear window. Time flies.
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Nothing new that I know of because the only shaft style radios are only made in the super cheapo brands. The Avanti IIs of the 70s used a small chassis shaft style Blaupunkt radio. I had them in all my Avanti IIs which were a 72, two 74s and a 76. Virtually all European cars of the 70s and early 80s used some model of Blaupunkt which will fit. Used ones are getting a little pricey and just about any of them will look correct for your car. Old radios can be converted to modern electronics to perform like a newer radio. Radio Roy on the Studebaker forum repairs radios and he is reasonable.
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Arkus you are exactly right, hence my disclaimer.
Here in CA, vehicles require a smog check every 2 years for model year 1976 and newer. HOWEVER, it is illegal to remove emission control that were originally installed on any vehicle. Emission controls began in early 60s with closed PCV systems, then air injection in 66/67, evaporative canisters in 71, EGR in 73 and catalytic converters in 75. My point is just about any pre-76 old car we see at car shows has had these items ripped off and these people could be cited if inspected by a Bureau of Automotive Repair inspector. But the cars are too old for a biennial smog test so everyone thinks its legal.
If the OP doesn't need a routine smog test he won't have any issues unless knowing he is polluting more bothers him
Also, when he goes to sell the car it would be a problem to sell to a person from another state like CA that requires emission controls to be intact and operational.
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The evaporator drain hose is plugged, It can sometimes be seen under the dash exiting the evaporator housing and off to somewhere like the firewall but for sure a lower point so draining can happen. Often you can see the end or tip of the drain hose outside the car from underneath. Run the AC. if the drain is not totally blocked, you may see a drop or two on the ground and then look up to find the hose.
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All due respect to posters here but I'm curious how just removing the smog pump on an 83 requires replacing the carb and distributor? The air injection system (air pump) is post- combustion. In simple terms it "stokes the fire" by pumping O2 into the exhaust manifold or catalytic converter to reduce Hydrocarbons (HC) and Carbon Monoxide (CO) that hasn't completely burned. After engine warm-up, it pumps O2 to the catalytic converter making it operate its best and further reduce the HC and CO. This is downstream of the O2 sensor so the exhaust read by the O2 sensor is not treated with O2 from the air pump. (that would cause an artificially lean condition making the computer richen the mix unnecessarily) All of this activity happens AFTER the fuel and ignition systems have done their jobs.
I would just remove the air pump and related plumbing. You will need to plug the air injection ports on the cylinder heads with scew in plugs. Short bolts work but hex head cap bolts look better. I would also remove the catalytic converter. with the air pump removed the exhaust will be less reduced forcing you to run the engine more lean to avoid the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust and potentially melting down the converter. Pretty sure there was a vacuum hose from the coolant temperature sensor to the air pump diverter valve which will have to be plugged too. If there is a computer controlled solenoid for diverter valve, it can be bypassed to "trick" the computer into thinking it is working preventing the check engine or service engine engine soon light form coming on. Disclaimer: Check with local and state laws to find out if removal of emission controls is legal..
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Not sure if you got the problem, solved but NO vacuum at the booster sounds odd. Little vacuum at the booster is more likely from a leaking vacuum hose or manifold leak and Could cause the rough/miss at idle and weaker brakes. :Like GS said above do that, however I would be listening carefully to what your "tech" says and future diagnosis. A vacuum leak on an old Chevy V8 can be found and diagnosed in a few minutes by an experienced mechanic THAT IS FAMILIAR WITH WORKING ON OLDER CARBURETTED ENGINES. On another note, I'm curious if the previous owner deleted the GM computer controls and feedback carburetor when the engine was swapped? This would be a good thing IMO for future and maintenance but may cause problems if your state of residence requires emissions testing for 81 model year vehicles.
Welcome to the board and keep us updated on progress.
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When you say "entire interior" do you mean every area that is carpeted or covered with leather or vinyl?
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RE: Tires, I have been running Hankooks and their H724 Optimo radial but I heard the H724 will be discontinued soon. Because of that rumor, I just installed a set of their new H737 Kinergy PT on another car (non Avanti) Very happy with them.
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On 1/29/2018 at 4:18 AM, Ron Dame said:
Black is tough to prep for and hard to keep clean, plus it would look like Halloween. White is boring. I'm not a big fan of silver, but think it is my best choice.
Black is nice with the orange interior if you keep the original Fawn upper trim. Its not too much orange then.
I wouldn't paint a Studebaker Avanti a non-original color. Every time I see one it just looks wrong, but just my opinion.
I have a half quart of Studebaker factory pack paint in Avanti Gray. It was in the trunk of my car when I bought it in 2007. Its not dried up and I've been wanting to do a spray out to see for myself cause I have seen many versions that were not right.
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Thanks for the replies. For some reason he doesn't want and LS and I thing what he has seen has been very expensive. I mentioned he can build an LS on a budget and make a lot of power. Next time I see him, ask some more specific questions.
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I have a friend with a '69 Avanti II and he is curious if it is possible to install a Big Block Chevy motor like a 454 in his 69 Avanti II. Would the modifications necessary be extreme and hard to get right?
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I have a friend with a '69 Avanti II and he is curious if it is possible to install a Big Block Chevy motor like a 454 in his 69 Avanti II. Would the modifications necessary be extreme and hard to get right?
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On 8/19/2017 at 6:40 AM, mfg said:
If you're selling one yes.....If you're an average guy trying to purchase an Avanti ....no.
One thing I've liked about Avantis (and Studebakers in general), is that they've always been affordable to buy!
I know what you mean. I'm casually looking for an R2 but won't be ready to buy until I make some space. However, I can always find a place to stash something if I have to.
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Always a good feeling to revive a car that has been parked for many years. Great job.
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Do you have a photo of the motor you are looking for?
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Avanti IIs used an AMC tilt column which was actually a GM part. it is wider than the Studebaker column. Its not a hard swap but you will have to either make the steering column cutout larger on the dash gauge panel or replace the panel with one from an Avanti II.
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Yes and it apparently was iridescent and had a hue of lavender in it too. My avatar is an avanti gray car but the lighting isn't the best for accuracy.
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Thanks.
Is there a breakdown such as in percentages of how many of each color were produced? Not just gray and black, all colors for 63 and 64?
63 Seat Cushion
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Paul K.
63 R1 I sold a few years ago came with this seat pad which to me looked like an original and not aftermarket. Its vinyl was the same as the interior seats which were positively original. Curious if anyone had seen one of these before? If factory or dealer option, I assume is was designed for the thin seats before the thicker seats were introduced. Last pic is how I found it when I purchased the car in 2008. It was sitting since 1972.