Paul K.
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Posts posted by Paul K.
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I mentioned this on another thread about the ASC sunroofs some time ago.
The sunroof on my 76 was an ASC for sure, however, the glass in it was OEM Ford ". Carlite" and it was a BIG sunroof relative to the size of the Avanti. From its size I would bet it came from a 70s T-Bird or Lincoln.
Makes sense that ASC sourced its glass from a major auto company vs making their own when you consider the safety regulations sake and associated costs. ASC may have sourced more than the glass for your sunroof unit so I would first check your glass for any Ford Carlite markings or part number. Then take measurements of yours and go to a wrecking yard and find a T-Bird or Lincoln with a sunroof and see if they are the same.
I know, a lot of legwork, but Avanti IIs require a bit more diligence due to many things being being changed over the years and the factory's so-so record keeping.
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If you do decide to carry your baby in an old car, please make sure the vehicle has a good trunk seal so exhaust fumes won't enter the cabin. Keeping the windows open draws even more fumes into a moving car due to a venturi effect from the air passing the open side windows which sucks the air from the back of the car through the trunk.
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Yes, Autogeek is a great resource. I'm an auto tech instructor, mostly teach engine performance and computer controls but I started a detailing course a couple of years ago that I teach. Mike Phillips is a great person at Autogeek and will answer your emails. His book, "The Complete Guide To A Show Car Shine" is excellent and I use it for my textbook. Before Mike was at Autogeek, he spent many years at Meguiars. Here is the link for the book: http://autogeek.comm...il book&x=0&y=0
The book explains single stage and two stage paints and how to approach them, and the differences between polishes, glazes, waxes and compounds. Plus various methods of hand polishing, machine polishing and pads. The book is a bargain at $20.00 considering the information.
To determine if a finish is restorable requires a few steps. Test spots are done starting with less aggressive polishes then going more aggressive until you get the results you want.
In the case of my Avanti, I broke a lot of rules to get a shine. There was paint spilled on it and other stains from years of junk piled on it. The rear quarters and trunk have been repainted and they are not as nice as the original paint. There are MANY scratches and chips. I just wanted to make the car look better and presentable from 20 or 30 feet. It looks much better in the photo I posted than in person, but it has that cool worn "patina" look.
Studebaker applied single stage paints and my color Avanti Gray is a metallic. This means is cannot be wet sanded because there is no clearcoat layer over the metallic and if sanded, the metallic will go away. In the case of my car, no metallic could be found because the paint was so oxidized. After not getting good results with what I feel is one of the best and most aggressive compound, Meguiars 105, I decided to wet sand the car to quickly cut the heavy layer of oxidation. After that I compounded a few times, then polished a few times. I used a rotary polisher and the biggest problem was the pad would get so dirty and clogged with old paint that it was very time consuming due to constantly having to wash the pad(s). In addition, dirty pads get hot quick and get sticky so I had to be careful to not burn the paint. There were already some thin areas on the paint where I had to go easy. This WAS the most difficult polishing job I have done. I am at the point now where I am polishing with a Rupes dual action polisher and Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. #7 is very high in oil content compared to other polishes and "feeds" old dried paint. This polish is recommended to restore old paint by many professionals, however, my paint was so bad, it was not strong enough begin with. The dual action polisher removes swirls and haze left from the rotary polisher, and in my case there was a lot because so much of the paint was old and "dead" and I had to use a lot of pressure. If anyone gets the itch to buy a polisher, let me know. We have most of the popular ones at the school and I can share my experiences with them. Below is a pic of the car before any polishing the day I bought it. First one is in the garage where it sat for years with flat tires, ( the seller is wiping the years of dust off) and the other is after I had it towed and washed.
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Today was a great day. I purchased R-2569 ( R1 Auto) in 2008 on a tip from another Avanti club member. He mentioned the car was his neighbors and had been sitting for years in their garage. He wasn't kidding, 400 miles between 1972 and 1976 and nothing after that. Total miles on the car, 104k. Mostly original, one owner, Southern CA (San Diego) black plate car. Zero rust.
Other car projects got in the way but little by little things got done on the Avanti. Although the engine ran great, the water jackets were clogged.so I decided to pull the engine and go through it, plus the usual cooling and fuel systems rebuild. Brake system rebuilt and tires of course plus front and rear suspension rebuild with springs. Often projects lose momentum and don't get finished. I'm way over the hump now and FINALLY enough work has been completed to take it for a drive.
Today was its first shakedown cruise to the exhaust shop. She ran well and very strong.
Pic below. After hours of polishing, I was finally able to get some shine out of the original paint,
Thanks to all on the forum for their help and expertise.
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The unit is ASC for American Sunroof Corporation not ASR. They were installed in many cars. My 76 had one not a Skytop.
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Thanks MFG, great place to start looking. If not, I'll just have to order one.
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Are the vacuum advance units for a 63 Avanti R1 available from chain parts stores? Does it share an application with another make of vehicle? Would like to fix the car today as opposed to waiting for a part. Thanks!
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Cooper Tire makes their Lifeliner radial. I have a set on my 66 Cadillac and am happy with them. They are smooth and quiet and made in the USA which I think is of interest to you.
I also have the Hankooks on my 63 Avanti in the 205-75-15 size but I cannot comment yet on their performance because I haven't driven the car yet. They do look good.
FWIW, I had 215/70/15 tires on 7" rims on a 74 and they would rub the front fenders when turning in a driveway or dip. They replaced the original 205/75/15 tires on original 6" rims ( like yours) which did not rub. The tighter front wheelwelll openings of the Avanti IIs create this problem which the original Studebakers did not have.
As mentioned, spring sag contributes to this problem and I assume a wider wheel than the original 6" will too. I also had the same 215/70/15 tires mounted on the same 7" rims ( Magnum 500 wheels) on a 76 Avanti II that I installed new front springs. Rubbed the same as the 74 but not as bad. (the 74 had old springs) Before this wheel and tire package I bought the 76 with 215/75/15 tires on the original 6" rims and they rubbed with the old and new springs. Those tires were too tall.
I have a 72 now which I am putting together and if you haven't guessed yet, I am putting on the stock size 205/75/15. tires on 6" rims.
Not sure this helps or just confuses you more but this has been my experience. -
No disrespect to you or your father-in-law, but are the low miles documented with repair receipts? From the limited view photos, I see too many things that would detract an "all original" or "low mileage" type buyer who would pay in the upper price bracket for a low mileage car. The biggest item that puts the low mileage in question for me is the replaced seat upholstery on the driver's seat. It is a coarser grain than original. Also, the tachometer is a later Stewart-Warner, the gas and brake pedals are not correct, the gauge cluster and console overlays have been painted black and the gold paint color on the body is too dark.
Don't mean to sound picky, but I see too many cars advertised as low mileage with nothing to back it up but a story or what the previous owner told the current one. This has always been a problem with older cars that have five digit odometers. Your father-in-law may have done these modifications or the previous owner did them. Regardless, without documentation of the mileage, the car looks like an older cosmetic restoration and not an ultra-low mileage original and would bring 15 to 20k depending on its mechanical condition and roadworthiness.
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It would be similar up and down movement as a worn idler arm on conventional parallelogram steering. If your mechanic does not understand this, that plus him being a bit taken back by the Studebaker suspension design is not a good sign of his experience.
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I may need someone to act as a third party verifier to assist in helping me to confirm the correct VIN on a '72 Avanti II. Private message or email direct to pkatson@sbcglobal.net
I am in the San Diego area.
Thanks
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Definitely check the adjustment on the box as mentioned but I am curious what year your other Avantis were? Were they Avanti IIs? If so, you will feel a difference or more play in the wheel on '75 and later Avanti IIs because Altman ran out of the original steering boxes at the end of the '74 model year and installed ones from a fork lift.
If everything is tight and you are still not satisfied, look into installing a set of "quick ratio" steering arms. One or more of the Avanti vendors has them (can't remember which one).
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I have fixed this issue by shimming the handle with rubber hose washers. I got the idea from another forum member.
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There was one Avanti II a 68 or 69 model that had a supercharger. From what I have read it was modified by Altman at the Avanti II factory and its owner was the Ashtabula Fiberglass Co. president. I have a vintage road test of this car and its pretty fast for the its time.
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Did Avanti Motors place VIN numbers on the frame of their vehicles?
This would be for an Altman era RQB series Avanti II from the early 70s and not a later one with the 17 digit VIN.
No problem finding ones on the body. There are three that I know of including two in the driver's door jamb:
1. metal plate on driver's door jamb A pillar
2. on the B pillar the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety sticker with the VIN engraved.
3. VIN tag on the dash pad on driver's side just inside of the windshield.
Plus non-official chalk markings on body parts placed there during assembly.
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Wonder if anyone here is bidding on this. It has a rusty frame, which isn't revealed on the Ebay writeup
I'm shocked that he didn't mentioned the rusty frame.
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The Canada thing I have always felt was directed toward the Avanti IIs because of them still being made after South Bend closed and Studebaker was already operating in Canada.
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I don't doubt your good luck starting your Lark, but I think tis issue is fuel related as suggested earlier. Try this: Instead of cranking the engine right away turn on the key to activate the electric fuel pump for 10 seconds before cranking. See if it starts faster. If it does, then the fuel bowl was dry and the problem is not ignition. Either the fuel evaporated since its last run or the fuel drained from the fuel bowl. Not sure if the Carter AFBs had plugs in the bottom of the fuel bowl but this is a common problem on many old carbs. If a carb does have these plugs, JB weld is used to reseal them with good results.
Don;t overlook the choke setting. When cold the engine should idle high around 1500 rpm. If it doesn't or it stalls, then it is too lean which would cause longer cranking times.
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Loewy also owned a '69 Avanti II that was iridescent silver color with a hue of purple. It had a tweed interior too.
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I installed Delrin control arm bushings on my 76 (now gone) with no regrets. Still had a good ride and I am very sensitive to a rough riding car.
What I would NEVER do again is install fiberglass or composite rear leaf springs unless specifically made for an Avanti. Gave a nice ride on the highway but the ones available are for a Camaro. I found this out after the fact and I think they were a little off in length causing the bushings to squeak a lot.
BTW, nothing wrong with a driver quality car in regard to restoring or not. I have only kept a few cars over the years that I restored because they are always worth the most when they are fresh. Plus if you buy them right and are good at detailing, you usually won't lose any $$. Not for everybody but after a few years, I like to get out of one car and into the next. Money just changing hands. Its fun, affordable and a way to stay in the game.
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Once again, Bruce is on it. But the horn button with the arrow is for a MOMO wheel which I have seen some Avantis have during the Blake and early Kelly era cars.
Your Altman era Avanti used the standard Nardi horn button with no Avanti logo at least in the years prior to 1980 from what I have researched. (Photo )
Regarding headers, I have heard the stock "Ram Horn" Chevy exhaust manifolds breathed pretty good and are OK as is. But if you want headers, I have heard of Sandersons that were mentioned and another brand for tight applications like our Avantis. They go by the brand name "Block Huggers".
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Jack up the front end of the car so the wheels are off the ground. Start the engine. If the wheel turns on its own (any direction) its a bad control/spool valve.
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Been working on other cars and haven't been on this forum in a while.
So, to take people's temperature, what would be a fair price that people would be willing to pay for a pair of these seals? This information is necessary before even beginning a project to reproduce these seals.
Keep in mind this would be a small batch being produced because the demand in not high like a Chevy.
Some rubber items are available for Avantis but they are expensive. For example, a side mirror mounting pad is about $40 and headlight ring seals are $65 for pair. The vent window seals are much larger and more complex in shape.
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Your 76 has an AMC/GM steering column and you have a Jeep steering wheel. AMC purchased their columns from GM. The interesting part is that the column will accommodate a Chrysler/Mopar or a GM ignition switch. I would buy a GM adapter for your Nardi.AMC used GM keys but I guess Avanti used the Mopar key because it matched the Avanti door locks. BUT.... I had a '74 that had the same Mopar column and GM key for the ignition that also fit the door locks. Go Figure.
BTW, Looks like a nice car from your interior shot.
Exhaust Crossover pipe
in 1965-83 Avanti
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I have heard the best place to place a crossover or "blend" pipe (CA Smog Term) is a few feet behind the engine which is where I have seen most of them. The Corvette photo is an exception, and on the other end of the spectrum are mid 60s Lincoln Continentals which had a blend pipe between the two tailpipes in front of the rear axle.
With the crossover pipe your exhaust note at idle will be smoother and more balanced sounding and quieter at highway speeds.