Paul K.
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Posts posted by Paul K.
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Yes I did. I took the axles out and checked everything but there was nothing wrong. So I just put the drums on a brake lathe and machined down the edge just enough so they did not rub. Looking at the drums on a lathe, they were not true in the areas where they were rubbing. Seeing this I guess that the drums being aftermarket were just not cast right. This car had been sitting for over 30 years and was never driven before I took the axles out so I do not know if they were rubbing before I took things apart. Machining the drums wasn't my first choice but after checking and double checking everything it seemed like the only fix.
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I removed the rear axles and repacked the rear bearings on my 63 Avanti. It has a single track and not a Twin Traction rear. I re-installed the same hubs on the axles and everything else as it came out including the same shims on the right side. Now, both rear drums rub the backing plates. Also, there is virtually ZERO end play on the left axle. The right one feel normal. Not sure what went wrong.
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My 63 with auto trans wonn't hold park. The shifter slips into reverse on its own unless the shifter is FIRMLY placed in park. Linkage seems OK. I seem to remember hearing about this being a no so uncommon problem. Anyone else seen this?
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Good to know. I wonder which GM model Altman sourced those ignitions from?
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Both of my '74s had the filler panels. RQB 2156 and RQB 2165. Can't remember on my '76.
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If you change your mind to keep the GM transistor igniton you may find the correct wiring diagram in a 1971 Corvette shop manual. If I remember, the Corvette used that ignition and I feel fairly certain Newman and Altman just bought the complete set-up for their Avanti IIs with the Corvette motors.
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Haven't been on the site for a while. Will check out if he he is interested. Before I ask, I need to get an idea what they they will sell for. I can't remember what I paid for mine 13 years ago but those prices would be outdated. What would we pay? There won't be much demand due to Avantis low production numbers so set-up costs and a low production run would be pricey. ( I assume)
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Brad overall describes a first class paint job in a "nutshell".
If you want to learn more about auto body and decide to tackle it yourself, check out www.autobody101.com. Very good forum with knowledgeable people in the business plus many people like yourself. I have learned a ton! There is a dedicated area just for fiberglass work.
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I remember the ones I purchased were high quality and fit perfect. That said, my guess is either Steele or Metro was making them but they do not list them in their current catalogs. I recently restored a 64 Lincoln convertible and to say the least it was weatherseal HELL. So much was unavailable or there are rogue suppliers selling junk. Myself ( and many others) waited a year for Metro to make another run of vent window seals. We don't want to go through this with our Avantis.
If you do locate an excellent used set or better an NOS set, let me know. I know a guy that makes good seals and we should have him make a mold.
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Studebaker Intl. has them listed. Are the out of stock? And if they are, were they NOS or repros? I bought a pair about 12 years ago and I do not remember them coming in a Studebaker package so they must have been repros.
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Should the valves be adjusted hot or cold on a Studebaker engine? I just installed the motor after resealing it and the engine is quiet for a solid lifter engine. I had the rockers off for cleaning and adjusted the valves but am wondering if they should be re-adjusted one more time with the engine warm?
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There is so much ugly junk on that car the "cow catcher" bumper is starting to look good!
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Yes, but this one appears to work in the opposite fashion. It extends and holds pressure against the throttle when the engine is OFF. The car operates fine with it removed. Still curious what it actually is supposed to do.
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Ditto on checking the firewall, trunk and rear seat area seals. From what I have heard and researched, if the exhaust smell is worse with the windows are down, it is caused from a draft or venturi effect which occurs when the car is moving.
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Does anyone have a part # for a FINISHED set of plug wires that will fit a
63 R1?
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No, I didnt rebuild it, as it had even compression, good oil pressure, 18" of vacuum and ran perfect. It just had a some oil keaks and needed the water jackets cleaned out. I felt it was just easier to do it out of the car.
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Mine is vacuum only and is attached to the base of the carb with a one bolt bracket. It gets its vacuum from the T on the manifold behinf the carb. Pretty sure its correct original as the motor had never been out of the car and it had been parked since '72.
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I do not have my service manual with me and am wondering what the carb throttle dashpot does on my 63 R1, Auto, non-A/C Avanti. Right now it pulsates back and forth when the engine is running making an unstable idle so I know I need a new one, but it seems to work in the opposite way compared to others I have seen before. When the engine is off or no vacuum, the dashpot is extended holding the throttle open. The opposite is when the engine ir running - throttle closed on the idle stop. Is this to provide a slightly open throttle to help starting? Right now I have it removed so as to tune the engine which was just installed and the car idles and starts fine. Are these still available and are they necessary?
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Thanks, I don't have my shop manual with me so this really helps.
I am not clear on the two black wires. One goes to coil positive ( battery) and the other to coil negative ( tach sender)? They are not marked so I was going to see which one is hot to determine where they go.
OR... does one of the black wires got to the ceramic coil resistor and the other to the coil positive. The two black wires are in their own harness. If both of them are hot then this may be how they go.
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Finally getting the engine in after 3 years and the masking tape I used to mark some wires either fell off or is illegible. Attached are pics of the wires and if anyone can tell me where they go that would be great. I have an idea but I need to be sure.
In pic # 1, The heavier gauge white wire with the black tracer I remember as a ground but I'm not sure. If it is, where would be the correct securing point/bolt? Also there is an orange wire next to it.... temp switch?
Pic # 2 shows 2 black wires which go to the coil. Do they both go to the + side? There is a third one from the distributor to coil negative and that is hooked up.
Pic 3 shows a green wire with black tracer coming out of the firewall just off center toward the passenger side. I think this goes to the resistor on the coil.
Thanks in advance.
Paul
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Bob, thanks for the reply. What shade of gray does your sample look like? Does it look gray-blue or the silver with lavender? Would you happen to have a spray-out card or a portion of it that you could send me and/or pass on the formula?
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My 63 Avanti’s original color is Avanti Gray. Portions of the car were repainted at some time but some panels, the door jambs and under the hood are original. These areas look like a more gray-blue color. Does this sound correct? Some color chips I have seen look similar, but some photos of cars including one recently on ebay look silver. One picture in an Avanti photo I have represents the Avanti Gray color as a silver with a hint of lavender and is iridescent. I plan on painting the car soon if I do not sell it as-is so I am trying to figure this out. Luckily, (or not) I have a partial qt. can of Studebaker factory pack Avanti Gray paint but the can has been opened and is 40 years old. I will try to spray out a test panel but with its age, who knows if it will be accurate.
Below is the link to the car advertised on ebay.
Paul Katson
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When the 3M distributor heard an Avanti was coming into the shop for a clear bra he made a point of being there to see the car.
I wouldn't be surprised if the 3M rep came out to take measurements of your vehicle to create a pattern.
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What rear axle ratio do you have?
1963 VIN #
in 1963-64 Avanti
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My 63 R1 was delivered new in CA to Bob Francisco Studebaker in Rancho Santa Fe, CA. There is no "B" in my VIN. My VIN is 7 characters and is 63R2569