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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Many years ago, around 1978 I had my Avanti II (1966 model, IIRC) automatic transmission rebuilt and was told it was a Ford transmission. I think it was the same transmission used by the Studebaker Avanti's, but I'm not sure of that.

    As a side story, I had an accident involving that transmission just before the rebuild:

    I came home late one wintry Sunday night after a night out drinking, and parked my Avanti close beside my house, on my driveway, in about 3 inches of snow. By the next morning there was about 6 or 7 inches of snow on the ground. Before leaving for work I needed to do a couple of chores in my 2 1/2 car detached garage behind the house, and so before doing that, I started my Avanti and turned on the heater so it would warm the car for my trip by the time I completed my tasks in the garage. Some minutes later, while I was puttering in my dark garage, there suddenly was a very loud "crash" and brilliant daylight filled the garage. My Avanti had crashed through one of the two metal garage doors!

    It turned out the car had several problems (including one that I didn't know about), and a third that I caused; they joined forces to cause the accident...

    Problem 1 was that the transmission was wearing out; the seals were going bad and it needed a rebuild because it was beginning to slip (especially when cold; it was fine as soon as it warmed up).

    Problem 2 was that, unbeknownst to me, the shifter electrical lockout switch that prevents the car from starting if the transmission isn't in "Park' position, had failed.

    Problem 3 was that I had inadvertently left the car in "drive" when I parked it (being half "in the bag" after drinking).

    So, I had parked the car and turned it off the night before, carelessly leaving  the gearshift lever in "Drive" and didn't notice that in the morning; the lockout switch problem allowed the car to be started even though the gearshift was in "Drive", the cold morning exacerbated the transmission slippage such that the car did not move when it was started because the transmission slipped badly, but as the car warmed, the transmission seals began working, and the car picked up speed as it traveled about 30 feet through 6 inches of fresh fluffy snow to crash into my garage.

  2. Out of curiosity, why do you want to do that?

    I always think of hood pins as a precaution for race cars with a front-lifting hood to ensure against the hood flying open and blinding the driver and/or breaking the windscreen during a race. They also allow the race car to shed the weight of the catches and the cabling and handle mechanism to actuate them. Not an issue on an Avanti.

    So what is your purpose?

  3. From your description I am not sure exactly what the problem is. If the motor works but doesn't unlatch the trunklid and allow it to spring up, perhaps the latch catch (the steel rod thats bent into a "U" shape) is too tight and needs to be adjusted a bit. If not, peruse ebay for door actuators to see if you can find a match.

  4. Seems to me that you should get your steering checked by a professional alignment shop to see if there are any issues beyond the normal, caused by wear or improper settings; even if all is in proper condition/adjustment, your car won't handle like a car with modern rack & pinion steering, so you can't expect that. You may have to search for an old-time mechanic that understands the suspensions on old cars.

    This is from a post I copied years ago:

                                    Front Wheel Toe-In                 1/8"


                                   Caster Angle (at Curb Load)    +3/4° to -3/4°  (0° is preferred)


                                   Front Wheel Camber Angle       0° to +1° (1/2° Greater Favored on Drivers Side)


                                   Make adjustments under zerk fitting located on upper outer pin, which goes through control arm and king pin. 

                                           Adjustments are made using a  1/4" allen wrench.

    One common 'loose steering' issue is wear in the bellcrank pin and its bushings (part 1209-10 in the parts book).

  5. There was a post about upholstery for Avanti Recaro seats about 5 to 7 years ago on this site, but I was not able to find it (I think older posts have been dropped from this website ...kinda sad since lots of good info was lost with those deletions).

    In short, an Avanti owner contracted with a Texas shop for new seat covers for his 1980 Avanti. The covers were in turn farmed-out to a company in China. The Avanti owner supplied his old covers as patterns (front Recaros and the rear seat). The process took 3 or 4 months, I believe, but he was happy with the results. The middleman was leatherseats.com

  6. Also be aware that the front face of modern car radios are uniform in size, in so-called "DIN" modular size (1 Din or 2 Din height), all are same width & DIN heights, and all are too large for an Avanti dashboard. What does fit nicely is a Blaupunkt radio as used in many "sporty" cars of the 1970's, particularly Porsche, but if you can find a good one (with a tuner for American AM/FM bandwidths), they are pricey.

  7. Randy, I found the kit you referenced here: https://musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner-amc-dist-switch

    But, I don't think my distribution block has such parts as they show. The block does not come apart (cannot be disassembled)

    I did find a distribution block at Jegs that looks very much like the original in my car, for '67-'69 Camaro/Firebird/TransAM/Chevy II. I did order one some years back and found several of the threaded holes for brake line fittings were larger than for the Avanti. The GM block may be usable with thread adapter fittings.

    Regrettably i am getting too old and feeble to do much with my cars anymore, so my '71 may continue to sit.

    shown below is the old block compared to the (new) GM block.  


    IMGP0407 edited_320x131.JPG

    IMGP0409 edited_320x118.JPG

    IMGP0408 edited_320x182.JPG

    IMGP0408 edited.JPG

  8. Also, I do not believe my valve is a proportioning valve, but rather it is a distribution block with a switch to light a dashboard warning light if either the front or rear brakes lose pressure. The valve has separate inlet and outlet ports and chambers for front and rear brake circuits, respectively, and a pressure switch between them that senses when pressure is lost in either circuit, illuminating a red warning light on the dashboard.

    If anyone knows where I can find a direct replacement for my switch, please let me know.

    IMGP0569a 600x450.JPG

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