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Gunslinger

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Posts posted by Gunslinger

  1. I can recommend Paul's for chrome plating. A friend has a '63 Lincoln 4-door convertible and sent them all the chrome from the car. When it was returned, it was very carefully packed and the chrome plating was magnificent to say the least. They were not inexpensive by any means, but Avanti's have far less chrome than a contemporary Lincoln.

  2. A dual master cylinder would not look stock, but would look normal to anyone not familiar with older cars and single master cylinders. I believe the dual master cylinder used on Avanti II's was a contemporary Mopar unit. I'm sure someone else here knows the proper application if I'm wrong.

    I remember years ago you could buy anti-roll bars through JC Whitney...I believe they were ADDCO units and maybe they still have them even if they don't list them anymore. They may fit other makes as well but I remember they listed them for Studes and Avanti's. Avanti came with them originally so I don't know if they were an identical replacement or an upgrade. For all I know ADDCO may have been the original supplier for Stude anyway.

    There have been a few people who have installed rear disc brakes on Avanti's, but I don't know if it's a completely engineered kit that's available or someone took it upon themselves to experiment. I wish I knew more about it but again, hopefully, someone else here may have better information.

    To my way of thinking, there is only so much one can do with the old Stude chassis to upgrade it. It may be strong, but it's old technology and no one is in the business of making high performance Studebaker parts...be it chassis, suspension or drive train. Most of what's out there is geared toward restoration. Most improvements are adaptions of current technology, though there is the upgraded disc brake kits for the front. When there were only 4643 Stude Avanti's made, and even fewer Avanti II's on the Stude chassis, it simply doesn't make sense for a performance company to invest big bucks into developing performance parts for such a miniscule market. The enthusiasts who own the cars do it themselves by trying different things...many just one-off experiments or custom shops that will do it for an owner for big money.

    You can do some standard hot rod tricks, better tires, adapt modern technology to the cars and chassis, but that's really the extent of what's reasonable. You also have to keep in mind that many changes in any car's suspension and chassis can upset the car's center of gravity, handling, etc., in a negative way and make for an unsafe vehicle. At low speeds and gentle driving it may make little difference, but ramp up the speed and certain road conditions the car can then bite you in a hurry. See what happens to some of the SUV's that have been equipped with oversize tires and rims and how many end up rolled over or off the road because the changes were beyond the vehicle's design envelope. Not to say you can't make changes, but to gain something you necessarily have to give up something. You want to improve safety and performance, not sacrifice it. If you have to sacrifice something to gain what you want, make it nothing more than work, sweat and as little money as necessary to accomplish it.

    I'm off my soapbox now.

  3. First...thank you for your service to America. You are well appreciated and your well being is a big concern for all of us.

    You've already identified a lot of good upgrades...the brakes, dual master cylinder, etc. There are a few other performance upgrades to consider, though they will add some considerable expense but I think they're worth considering.

    Instead of the stock cast iron intake manifold, you might try and locate an original Offenhauser aluminum 4 barrel intake..I see them occasionally on Ebay and big swap meets they show up. These are better than the stock Stude unit and being aluminum it weighs less and sheds heat faster. I also understand you can take an intake made for the small block Mopar and it can be adapted to work, but I have not seen them myself. I believe a Stude enthusiast has made adapters to accomplish this.

    If you change the intake, get a new Edelbrock Performer carburetor...it's an updated clone of the original Carter AFB and is an excellent unit to use. Another advantage of the Edelbrock is the linkages should hook up without modification. Actually, one of the best street carbs ever is the Rochester Quadrajet, but they're no longer made and even good rebuilds are expensive, plus you would need an adapter to use it with a square bore intake as it is a spread bore design. By changing the carburetor, you would likely need a new air cleaner as the diameter of the carb's opening is a good bit more than the original AFB. You can use a modern air cleaner base and still use the original chrome aire cleaner lid. Also get a low restriction K&N air filter element or equivalent.

    Something else to consider is to have a good radiator shop build you an aluminum radiator assembly...one with as many cooling fins per inch as possible. Your original radiator is likely not up to standards anymore and a new aluminum core will transfer heat more rapidly and save some weight on the front end of the car. Avanti's are nose heavy to begin with, so a weight savings and increased cooling efficiency is a no brainer in my view if you're not interested in a completely stock museum piece. Take advantage of new technology.

    For the interior, I'm assuming you're going to install new carpeting. Get a good heat insulator on the floor and firewall before installing the carpeting. Corvette specialty catalogs carry the stuff and it will keep heat out of the interior. If you're not concerned about originality, consider replacing the stock gauges with new one's from Auto Meter, VDO, or Stewart Warner. Besides a more modern appearance, they will be more reliable and accurate. The original gauges Stude used weren't all that accurate...read reviews from when the Avanti was first introduced and many mentioned how the speedometer and tach were inaccurate. It's difficult to rebuild the original tach sending unit and almost impossible to find a replacement these days anyway.

    If your car is air conditioned, you might get a new Sanden compressor...smaller, lighter and more efficient than the original York or Eaton compressor, plus it's designed for the current R-134A refrigerant rather than the old R-12. While you have the car apart, go ahead and upgrade everything you can.

    You can also install the quick steering arms available. A good improvement.

    Most of what I've mentioned will add considerably to your costs, no question. It will also make for a much more responsive and comfortable car as well. I'm sure others have ideas as well to consider.

    Hope these ideas are useful to you. Stay safe and get the job done.

  4. Most sources I've seen state the R1 was about 240 horsepower and the R2 about 290 horsepower, with the R3 at about 335. To the best of my knowledge none of these were official Studebaker claims since they said the Avanti had "more power than you could use".

  5. I was relaying what I had read about the supercharged Silver Anniversary cars...I have no personal experience with them. I know what you mean about the Buick Grand Nationals...but GM spent lots of engineering time and money to integrate the car's management system with a factory turbo installation. I'm guessing the Avanti factory more or less simply bolted on a supercharger to the stock GM engine without regard to the compatibility of the on-board electronics with forced induction not included in its design parameters. Just a supposition on my part. Since Avanti Motors was having financial issues at the time it seems logical they wouldn't have spent a lot of effort (read that money) on such issues, or it may not have even been thought about.

    Considering the rarity of the Silver Anniversary cars and how far automotive technology has advanced, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of these cars if it was priced fairly. Any issues related to the blower installation could be rectified, I'm sure.

  6. I don't have a dollar value for you as Avanti's seems to be all over the map when it comes to that, but all Avanti's are desireable, though I am a bit less than objective here. The silver Anniversary models can bring a bit of a premium as they were very limited in production...and that is from an automobile that is already a very limited production car. I remember the factory wanted to build fifty of them and I believe the final number was something like twenty-seven plus two prototypes.

    My understanding is that the Silver Anniversary cars were a bit problematic mechanically due to the supercharger installation not well matched to the computerized nature of the engine. The electronics of the era simply weren't sophisticated enough to deal with the forced induction. You could always take the drive belt off the blower and drive it that way.

    Check Ebay Motors and Hemmings for some idea of asking prices. That should be of help. Hope you have a winner there.

  7. The factory location for the antenna is the top of the left rear quarter panel. The antenna also needs to be grounded to be able to perform properly. It's not like a steel bodied car where the antenna grounds simply from being tightened down to the bodyand receives a big ground plane from all the sheet metal.

    Make sure any antenna you install on an Avanti gets grounded securely.

  8. The actual serial number or Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for a Studebaker Avanti is located on a plate riveted to the upper frame on the right side of the car, just ahead of the firewall. It's quite likely it's covered by dirt and grease. That's the only place the VIN is on a Stude Avanti as far as I know. The number on the plate by the hood latch (RQ XXXX) is the body number. The VIN should read 63RXXXX or simply RXXXX depending when it was assembled. There are some VIN's that end in a "B", and I believe there's some controversy where that came from and its meaning.

    Hopefully the body number doesn't become confused for the VIN and erroneously listed on a title as the VIN.

    I believe the Avanti II's began putting the VIN on the door jamb.

  9. Do a web search for clock repairs and you should find someone that can fix it without too much problem. See if anyone can convert it to quartz movement...it will be much more accurate and reliable.

    It probably has a Stewart Warner tach, but I don't now that for sure. There should be repair services for that as well. Tachs are designed in a variety of ways in how they operate. It could have a seperate tach sending unit which usually looks like a big flat can. They do go bad and can be fixed. It could also be as simple as a bad connection. Since yours is a '78 it should have a GM HEI ignition. In some GM cars (Corvette's at least), they used a tach filter in-line due to the very higher voltage output. The filter can and does go bad. If Avanti was using a tach filter, look at it. It depends on who made the tach.

    You can always simply replace all the gauges with new VDO or Autometer units. Besides being superior gauges you can really individualize your car with them. A bit more work but it can really add to the appearance and be a practical upgrade.

    Best of luck and congrats on buying it!

  10. It shouldn't hurt a thing beyond introducing some additional back pressure into the exhaust. You can buy low-restriction converters through Summit Racing and Jeg's that will minimize any horsepower penalty.

    That brings up the obvious question...what would want to install cats on a car that has no need or requirement for them?

  11. I've seen other brand alternators adapted for Studes, but there should be no reason why your Prestolite can't be rebuilt to like new by a competent rebuilder. When I had my '63 R1, I had my alternator rebuilt by a local shop and had it back the same day.

    A potential problem with other alternators is if you use one with too high an output with the original electrical wiring it may cause problems. Often heavier gauge wiring is necessary.

    If needed, I can put you on to a shop that does quality work and will accept units shipped in and will ship it back to you.

  12. Welcome to the club! You're in good company.

    The best replater I know of is Paul's Chrome in Pennsylvania. Their web address is <http://www.paulschrome.com>. I've never used them but have seen their work and it is flawless. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Check them out.

    Just posting to say hello to the members here.  I would also like to ask a question about Avanti bumpers .. my rear bumper needs to be replaced or rechromed -

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks!

    Tom

  13. The car was built in South Bend. Avanti's were never made in Canada.

    Whatever issues are appropriate for any Avanti applies to this one as well. Check the hog troughs, check it for water leaks and whatever else applies to checking out a used car, particularly of this vintage.

    Avanti II's all used a small block Chevy engine, including the 400 which this car has. I'm not sure what year Avanti Motors began using the 400, but it was about this time, so it may well be the original engine. I do understand the 400's with two barrel carburetors were less than stellar performers, but then again, this was the beginning of the smog emission era, and most cars were being choked by government regulations. One good thing...now the car is over 25 years old, most emissions laws no longer apply and you can modify the engine to run great. Install a four barrel intake and carburetor or convert it to fuel injection, remove the smog equipment and enjoy it! The car likely has a GM Hydramatic transmission as well.

    Most parts are readily available, including some suppliers that offer upgrades, such as 4-wheel disc brake systems, etc.

    Hope this helps.

    Hello

    My first Avanti II

    I am contimplating the purchase of a 1973 Avanti II. It has a 400Cubic inch Chevy engine. I will be taking it to a local mechanic for a inspection.

    My questions are:

    *Are there any inherent problems I should be aware of?

    *I went to our local library, and could not find any information other                      than "Standard Guide to Cars & Prices 2005". Where can I get publications regarding a 1973 Avanti II?

    * What I gleaned off the Avanti web site, was that this car was built in Canada. Did this car originally have a 400 cubic inch Chevy engine, and did it also have a Chevy drive train?

    * Are replacement parts (breaks, suspension, etc) for this car readily available?

    Any information will be appeciated

    Thank you

    Charlie

  14. That sounds like it's a '63 that was titled originally as a '64. If the VIN you're giving is correct, it's older than the '63 I used to own. If so...not too uncommon.

    Are you sure that's the VIN and not the body number? The VIN is a plate riveted to the upper frame on the right side just ahead of the firewall. It may be grease covered and need cleaning off. The body number is the one on the plate on the right front cowl. Are you sure the number isn't "RQ3911" instead of RO3911? That sounds more like a body number. The wood grain steering wheel, if original, would be more likely for a '64. Does it have square headlight bezels or round? Square would make it a '64.

    Either way, $17,500 sounds high considering the problems with the car you've already noted. They could be minor to repair or be a signal of more serious attention. For that money the car should have everything working properly, even if it's not quite in show condition.

  15. Welcome to the group, Tom.

    $15K should buy you a nice Avanti...not perfect, but nice. You need to decide what you're looking for...a nice driver like an R1, or more performance oriented like the supercharged R2. Everything else being equal, an R2 will cost you more, especially if it has a 4-speed instead of an automatic.

    Regardless of what you acquire, the best thing you can do is get a shop manual and parts manual. You won't regret having them.

  16. Custom Autosound (http://www.custom-autosound.com) custom makes stereos for many cars and lists Studebaker and Avanti II's among them. They have several feature levels and styles with cassette players.

    The only downside is I've heard they have a spotty reputation...I've heard some good and not so good reports from Corvette people who have tried their products. I've no experience with them myself.

    It's at least worth investigating.

  17. I'm not saying silicone brake fluid is a bad thing...to use it you simply have to be very thorough in purging your old brake fluid first and in bleeding the air out of the system after adding the new fluid.

    If you've had no problems with it after twenty years, then you're definitely doing something right. It is true that if you look at most, if not all performance cars, their manuals specifically say to use DOT 3 fluid, but generally don't say why. Besides my Avanti, I own two Corvettes and the same goes for them...every Vette specialist I know of says don't use silicone fluid...just use DOT 3 and change the fluid annually. Of course, old habits and prejudices die hard...I still use good ole STP in my cars when I know it's not necessary with the quality of today's motor oils.

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