Guy

I went a different way to get rear discs. I took a ford explorer 8.8 limited slip rear end and shortened the left side axle an inch or so, removed ford spring perches and put on ones to fit stude springs, also made mounts for torque rods (traction bars). E brake cable IHad made by california push pull, locally. Nice clean set up.

What was the backspacing on the wheels you used?

You forgot the first rule of business "The customer is always right" not knowing what the guy ended up with for his 100k investment makes it difficult to jugde, after all a custom Avanti just sold on bring a trailer for over 150k

Came across this, thought it might be of interest.

It seems that bleeding of the brakes is a regular problem and multiple people have posted about not having proper pedal height. No one yet has suggested using a pressure bleeder, when I worked as a mechanic thats how we did all the cars, never bench bleeded ever, never had an issue ever. It is not to difficult to make one. Good luck Guy

It will take more than a button battery to run a mechanical clock designed for 12v. Average button 1.5v and even if you put 8 in series to get 12v it wouldnt have the amp/hr capacity to run very long.

What you need is an artist or old school sign painter. We have become paralyzed by tech.

Is the fan shroud the same on a Avanti 2 as the original? I have a SBC in my 63 wondering about what fan and fan clutch to use, fan diameter?

I tried a variety of spray type contact cleaners without success before opening them up. Opening just requires bending the hook tabs a little bit , easy. Even after cleaning with acetone there wasnt continuity untill sanding contacts with 400 grit.

GuyByMy overhead switchs were not functioning at all. New ones are were not currently available so I decided to open up the switches and see if I could recondition them. They are very simple inside, mechanically nothing wrong, the lube they used on the inside had turned into a waxy substance that prevented the contacts from passing electricity. Degreased and cleaned contacts checked continuity from spade to contact and spade to spade then reassembled. Repainted rockers to freashen up the look, almost like new.

I was able to get seals from local supplier ( bearing,belt, and chain)

I am open to hear what you think is a fair price, materials are minimal, time less than half hour a pair. Guy

I imagine every Avanti out there has this problem as both of mine have warped defroster ducts. My solution was to take a piece of 1/8" aluminum ( old road sign) cut strips 3/8" wide and mill 1/4" slots to make wedge to hold opening open. Hope you find this helpful.

I rebuilt my window crank last year, not having rivits I spot welded with mig the bushing cap , my crank shaft had a big groove in it which I welded up and then turned down on lathe, the cap itself was also worn the hole larger than when new, to remedy I swedged the hole by pounding with hammer and drift, same technique a watch maker uses to repair worn parts.

Having recently installed a SBC in my 63 I have contended with the heighth issue, I have the Edlebrock performer intake and Edlebrock carb, air cleaner base with recessed center that fits over carb. The trick for me was to go from a 3 inch aircleaner element to a 2 inch. There is no doubt that the SBC sits taller than the Stude 289 in the engine bay.

Studebaker international is where I bought mine, there are several suppliers of parts for your Avanti, Nostalgic Motor cars is another.

Snake pit!

Studebaker international has them in thier catalog # 800203 5$ a pair

Rivnuts are another option

Here is a comparison between original strato vue on left 2 1/2 " hole space and repro on right 3" hole spacing⁸

My bucket had two prolems, first the plastic inserts that hold lamp adjusting screws were broken,second the slot on top that the trim ring engages was broken off. I made my own plastic inserts used a plug cutter to start, then carved away the material around the plug on my mill. For the slot repair I made a sheet metal piece and pop rivited in place. The last photo shows it all together.

Studebaker Int has covers available on a per order basis. I may attempt to do the back seat on my own, as far as the front I will buy a modern highback pair, being this is a restomod project Im not concerned with originality, plus cheaper than new covers and foam, plus my labor.

Here is more vinyl work, the wrap on seat back edge, the sail panels, and side panel.

For lack of input and a desire to move along I went for it and it came out quite well. Weldwood contact cement worked out, it seemed to soften the vinyl and it went around contours without problem, I hope someone finds this helpful

Has anyone glued a new cover on fiberglass rear deck behind rear seat? Just wondering how to do it without puckering the vinyl, its contours make it a difficult job or so it appears to me.