Guy

Please do, when convenient, much appreciated Guy

Thank you Mfg.

you dont have a hole like this?

Really, can anybody tell or show me the clutch linkage for Avant II, how you go from stude pedal to chevy clutch arm/bell housing.

My vent tube was rock hard and to touch it was to break it, I tried to replace it, had no success trying to get a looped piece of hose up in there. What I did instead was to use malleable copper tubing two seperate pieces, when I got them up to the access hole I used a short piece of rubber tube to make the u. It worked out fine, no need to sucure it as it cant move once the rubber tubing is on.

To hold padded fill neck cover in place, at least thats how both of my avantis are

Talk to Michael at Meyers Studebaker he has a 6 speed in his.

I would like to see how the clutch and throttle linkages were done on the later Avanti, did they have mechanical or hydraulic clutch? Throttle was it cable or rods/bellcrank?

The wood blocks under the sunvisors are spacers and are glued to the window frame, the block at the gas filler tube is also glued in place but its function is to give you something to put a screw into other than the filler neck.

You are lucky it came out easy, mine had to be cut with a utility knife along glass edge to get the rubber out of the way to remove glass and there was not any sealant, or butyl tape, the old seal was rock hard and cracked in the corners.

Its a double lip type seal like a VW bug windsheild it shouldnt need bedding or sealer if installed correctly.

Yes you are correct, as far as the instruments go, I loosened the dash,4 nuts underneath dash next to windsheild and 2 bolts left and right side next to doors holding metal crosspiece, once free I was able to pull dash back enough to access backside of gauges,

Obviously clips have many applications, the first post showed an SI listing for dash clips and they are indeed used for that purpose.

I purchased the dash pad fron SI, fit is fair, maybe abit too much padding behind guages making it a stretch getting top vinyl wrapped over edge by windsheild

Those clips hold the bottom edge of dash pad to fiberglass buck as well as two on either side of glove box opening. Top of fiberglass buck has four studs protruding downwards, the nuts are accessed from underside. I had to fabricate new studs as mine all sheared off in diassembly

I dont know, anything is possible as it seems someone reupholstered my car sometime in the past.

I guess no two Avantis are exactly the same. I wouldnt get to hung up on how it was done and do it how it makes sense to you, if that means drilling a hole or two for clips, why not.

Yes it is plywood, the clip was to right of light an inch or so, in the discolored area, there are the four screws holes holding top of rear window that penetrated the wood in the bottom edge of padded light piece. Do you have the glass out of the car? Much of the interior trim is glued to window frames before glass goes in. I am working on this part of the restoration of my 63 presently

63 stick, the backer is not screwed on first, The vinyl is glued on leaving the bottom edge free to be glued to the body wrapping around window frame and glued flat rearward of rear window. The 4 clips are for the piece over door, only one on piece over rear window. You can use 1/8" plywood to make new backerboards, I had to make new panels for entire car. Take note of slotted holes holding clips. I had the same problem with the heater box wellnut, a threaded insert in a rubber bushing, once I had it out I took a 1"×2" piece of sheet metal drilled a hole in it and welded a 1/4-20 nut to it, stuck the nut through existing hole from backside and pop rivited the plate in place.

The padded trim above quarter window, mine had a single spring clip midfield, in addition to that the upper screws holding the quarter window in place went into the lower part of padded piece pulling it in tight. The padded piece above doors is held on with 4 or 5 spring clips, if your car is like mine and sat for years with water trapped inside the clips may have completely rusted away

Id like to know specifically what are the weak points in the clutch pedal linkage?

What if the insturment overlay were made thicker, strong enough to support the gauge cluster on its own, then you could remove the whole unit gauges still attached, no need to lay on your back or remove dash. This would neccesitate cutting the fiberglass dash buck out behind gauge overlay to provide clearance for the brackets holding the gauges to the overlay. Any thoughts or input on this idea welcome.

Having tried to adjust door and not being able to move it, I wondered why there wasnt slotted holes for adjustment. I will take off my hinges and put them in the mill and make slots out of holes. It would seem to me slots on the door side of hinge would make adjustment easier, that way the door could remain closed during sdjustment, loosen bolts shim or pry untill it looks good and tighten. The slots on the frame side would allow for left/right adjustment realitive to the longitudinal axis not for and aft,by slotting the door side you would have fore/aft adjustment as well!

SBC with T5 trans, would like to see how others hooked up clutch pedal to throw out lever

I might have got it wrong, Prius/leaf not sure, but it was pink like pepto