Mark L

At 6:36 pm PT on January 3 2026 I attempted to access the SDC Forum from a PC, but I still can't get in.

Maybe I should try from a PC. I've been attempting to access from my cell phone. I cleared the cookies and history, but I still can't access it.

It appears the SDC Forum is offline again.

That's cool. Molded Fiber Glass (MFG) was the company in Ohio that was initially contracted to make the Avanti bodies for Studebaker.

That, and all the emission controls.

There's a square headlight bezel 1963 Avanti available near San Franscisco. No serial number or body number provided in the ad. It appears to be a R1 automatic with air conditioning. No title. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/alameda-1963-avanti-studebaker/7901139400.html

I just saw this posting from early December 2025 in craigslist that the Rodger Ward Avanti is available again. Might this be a scam listing? I know it recently sold, and that someties vehicles are quickly flipped. Considering the history behind this car, I would think that it would be offered for sale in a different forum than craigslist. Serial number and body number not provided in the advertising. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/palm-springs-rodger-ward-studebaker/7900062023.html

Make sure all the cable terminals (battery to starter solenoid, starter solenoid to starter, and block to battery) are clean, free of corrosion, and tight. Make sure the face of the starter that contacts the transmission case and the mounting surface on the transmission case are also clean, as this interface is also part of the electrical circuit. This will require removing the starter to inspect and clean the contact surfaces.

Thank you. Merry Chistmas!

Mark Wheeler with Cornerstone Registration sent the following to one of the members at the Studebaker Truck website on Tapatalk: "The SDC Forum is down. Hackers attacked the site last night and the hosting company was forced to take the server down to stop the damage. It's going to be a couple of days before it is back up and running again."

I'm another one of the folks having problems getting my brakes to pump up after replacing all the fluid-touching parts last year. I bought a pressure bleeder. When my schedule and the weather allow, I will attempt to use the bleeder to force more fluid through the system than what can be done using the master cylinder alone. I've done everything else that was suggested or I could find on my own.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong: I believe Hagerty's values are based on what their database shows as what they and their customers are currently stating as the agreed value of the vehicles, not necessarily what the vehicles will sell for. From that prerspective, Hagerty's values may be inflated. On the other hand, any value ascribed by bring-a-trailer is an an average of the selling price of recently sold examples.

It sold for $152,500.

I'm in the process of converting to a mechanical switch mounted under the dash that is actuated by the brake pedal arm. I had to cut, bend, and drill two holes in a piece of metal. One hole holds the switch. The other is where it's bolted to the dashboard. I'll add some photographs when I get a chance.

If you do install a backup battery, you may need to wire it in such a way that it doesn't try to also power the rest of the electrical system. Otherwise, it might drain quickly if something gets left turned on.