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John C

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Everything posted by John C

  1. Thank you Brad I'll do a little more searching. John C.
  2. I had the same issue with the switch so I soldered a piece of #14 wire across the bottom of the switch which jumpers the switch. After that I mounted a new switch at the brake pedal then disconnected the stop light wire at the fuse block, connected it to the new switch and then connected the other side of the switch to the fuse block terminal. It all works well and has a stock appearance.
  3. Hello All, Does anyone know of a source for the two head bolts that facilitate mounting the supercharger bracket on the R2 engines. I'm in need of four and don't know if anyone has reproduced them, any NOS around, or if I will have to have them machined. Any sources or help would be appreciated. Thanks, John C.
  4. The fun begins after the seat is removed. If memory serves me well there are 28 screws to remove the fiberglass panel behind the seat. Normally some of the Rivnuts have pulled out of the fiberglass and will need repair. John C.
  5. Hi Andrew, Take a look on ebay and 3721 AFB carbs from 62 thru 65 Corvettes. You can use the choke housing from one of these. You will have to fill about a 3/32 hole on the rear with epoxy and the brass tubes over the choke are slightly longer. You can shorten the tubes with a Dremel tool if you like but I think it will work fine as is. Other than that they look and function the same. Good luck with it, John C.
  6. As an added note vacuum gauges were factory installed in many cars and boats to help show peak fuel economy. Not just blown cars. John C.
  7. The first thing to do is disconnect your dash gauge at the engine connect a known good vacuum gauge. See if they behave the same. Then take a look at an old 1935 to 1965 Chiltons manual, look under engine diagnosis.You will find a good diagnosis chart. Vacuum gauges when you know how to use them are very accurate and useful. They can be used to set ignition timing when balancer marks are innaccurate. They can also help diagnose a multitude of engine problems. Google "engine vacuum diagnosis chart" and you will see what I mean. Look at the chart pay close attention to a good gauge and you will be surprised what you find out. Best of luck, John C.
  8. Hello Leo, Every mechanical fuel pump I have installed on cars prior to 1975 have always been NTP. It is a taper thread so use a good sealer like Loctite 567 and install it snug and it will be fine. Never use teflon tape on them. Good luck, John C.
  9. Hello Leo, I am running Dayco belts on my R2. The SC belts are #15545 they fit but they are very tight you may have to roll them on. The alternator is #15435 and it puts you at the mid point of adjustment, it works very well. The PS pump is #15375 this also puts you at the mid point of adjustment. these are .44 inches in width and the last 3 digits are the length in inches, ie: 375 is 37.5 inches. Good luck with your project, John C.
  10. I don't know where you are located but you could give St. Louis Spring Co. a call. They can rebuild old springs or manufacture new ones. They have the factory specifications for most springs and have done it for over a hundred years. They are also much more reasonable than Eaton. Jim Christian is the plant manager and he has done some C1 Corvette springs for me which I am quite happy with. www.stlouisspring.com or 314-533-2132 Good luck with your project! John C.
  11. Hello, Google Aardvark Racing www.2002parts.com He has been rebuilding and selling parts for Recaros for years. I've purchased parts from them in the past and been very satisfied. Good luck with it! John C.
  12. Hello Leo, Search for Strange engineering gear ratio calculator, they have a calculator to do this. Plug in your tire diameter, RPM, and speed with a final drive of 1:1 (no overdrive) and it will calculate it. It's very accurate. Good luck with it! John C.
  13. Hi there Javier B, I don't think you will find anything specific to the Avantis regarding 134a conversion but if it were mine this is what I would do. I would keep the existing condensor if it has a drier change it if you can find one that readily fits if not leave it. Change the TXV at the evaporator it should have some numbers you can cross reference. If there is a filter screen in the liquid line entering the firewall remove it, clean it, reinstall it. Some systems had it some not, i don't know about the 81 Avantis. Flush the system as you get sections opened up and tape the line ends to keep everything clean. Button the system up, put the proper amount of PAG oil in the compressor, do a pressure test with a little 134a, 40-50 psi will work. If you don't feel you have any leaks dump the 134a and pull the deepest vacuum you can (use a good pump). Then charge the system with 134a. I think you will be satisfied with the results. Access to the evaporator is always a challenge! Best of luck with it, John C.
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