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Dwight FitzSimons

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Posts posted by Dwight FitzSimons

  1. The original tires on 1963-64 Avantis (& other Studebakers) were bias-ply (usually Firestone or Firestone 500).  Radials were not an option.  By the late 1960s radials were fast becoming the norm.  My brother & I both had '64 Avantis and, by the late '60s, we had both switched to radials (Michelin).  We also trashed the stock 15x5" rims and switched to 15x6" Ford wheels.  The bias-ply tires were just too "squishy" with any kind of steering wheel movement.  Radials were a big improvement.  What you choose is up to you, but I drive my '64 Avanti on 15x6 wheels with BF Goodrich Radial TA 215/70R15 radials.  AFAIK they are the best handling radials available in a 15" size and I am very happy with my choice.  It's no accident that they are on most of the 1960's American muscle cars that I have seen.  They are not available in a whitewall, however.

    To me the "bias-ply-look" radials are a waste of money, but still probably a lot better than bias ply.  The next step up would be a modern radial in a narrow whitewall.  The ultimate step would be the BFG Radial TA 215/70R15.

    --Dwight

    Avanti 1964 sn_R5255 Dwight FitzSimons 20191017 (1).JPG

  2. The list price for a 1963 or 64 Avanti was $4445.  That was for an R1, 3-spd manual trans, manual steering, no-options car.  My brother bought a '64 R2 in 1964.  It had AT, PS, PW, TT, push-button AM radio, all tinted glass.  Its serial number was R5559.  Its sticker price was $5324.99.  Strange that I still remember that number after all these years.  Now where did I leave my keys?

    -Dwight

  3. I would think a tilt wheel would add more like $300 - $500 to the value of a '64 Avanti.  Avanti enthusiasts are, I think, like most old car fans; They want all the options available.  The more the better.

    It has a practical value too.  The overly large Avanti steering wheel makes getting into an Avanti somewhat difficult.  The tilt steering column was added to the options list for a reason.

    I would guess the market value of a complete tilt column would be the same $300 - $500.  It must be complete, though.

    -Dwight

  4. This happened to my '64 Avanti as early as the late '60s.  The power window motor literally broke a piece out of the inner door panel.  By 1970 Avanti Motors had "fixed" this issue by gluing (polyester resin?) a fiberglass piece onto the inner door panel to strengthen it.  That essentially doubled the strength of the inner door panel in that area. 

    My brother and I both had '64 Avantis in the '60s-'70s, both with PW, and we both could remove and install the PW motor blindfolded--we had to do it that often.  It would become stuck and need to be cleaned and lubricated.  We attributed that to the bottom of the motor being soaked and rusting.

    I would like to add power windows to my '64 Avanti by switching it to a set of 1970 Avanti doors (which I have).  So, with the repro motors, I figure it would work reliably, considering that the car lives inside and goes outdoors only on dry days.  And the power windows would get careful usage.

    I guess I have become spoiled with express up & down power windows (that work!) in my 2015 Buick Regal.

    As far as power window specialists I don't have any suggestions except the well known and respected Avanti specialists we have.  Most modern mechanics (sorry, technicians) seem to have become diagnose-and-replace mechanics.  There are (I assume) a few garages across the country (one near me) that cater to old cars, plus restoration shops.

    There is also the Nu-Relics conversion.  This issue has been discussed on the SDC Forum.

    -Dwight

  5. True.  The higher compression ratio (10.25:1 vs 9:1) for the R1 will give it the advantage.  The R2's blower doesn't contribute much until at least 2500 RPM.  Eventually, the R2 will blow past the R1.

    -Dwight

  6. The last I heard Real Rodders Wheels has not yet made the wheels.  I don't know why they have them on the web.  Maybe they're trying to drum up orders.  I have an order in, but have not heard anything from them.  I don't think there are any other sources for these wheels.

    A few years ago they made a run of them (in 15x6 size) and they sold all of those.

    -Dwight

  7. For performance mufflers you might consider Walker performance mufflers.  They have a wide variety of types and sizes, both stainless steel and aluminized.  I personally don't like the "tinny" sound of Flowmasters.

    The original Avanti glass packs were straight through, but the optional "quiet" mufflers were reverse flow.  After all, if they were straight through they wouldn't have been any quieter than the small, round glass packs.

    The Studebaker V8 produces much more exhaust noise than, for example, a Chevy V8 (all else being equal).  And, the more power the engine produces the louder the exhaust.  An R2 will be louder than an R1, and an R3 louder still.  Unless you want to go deaf you don't want straight through mufflers on an R3.

    The original rumble of an R2 Avanti is something to behold, especially at idle.  My brother and I both owned R2 Avantis in the 1960s-70s with the original glass packs.  But, the drone on the highway was too much to live with.

    -Dwight

  8. That frame would not be considered repairable by any sane person.  My '64 had a frame that looked much better, with rust all over, but no holes.  My restoration shop (WCD Garage) pulled the body off the frame then showed me how one could twist the frame (The metal was so thin due to corrosion).  My car got a new frame (and hog troughs).

    RQA-0043 is listed on Bob Johnstone's website as a 1966 model.  There is a local Avanti II that is titled as a "1967 Studebaker Avanti".  By serial number it is the first 1968 Avanti II built, and has the side marker lights ('68 was first year for them).  I would guess that it was titled in the Fall of 1967.  These things happen.

    -Dwight

  9. I parted out two 1970 Avantis because of two reasons: (1) I needed some parts from each, and (2) Economics.  By this I mean that I had three choices: (1) Sell the cars as is and lose money, (2) Fix them up, sell them, and lose a lot of money, or (3) Part them out and make money.

     

    -Dwight

  10. Or, maybe your current expansion tank can be repaired, if it is basically sound (just dented, leaking, and backwards).  I once repaired a friend's tank.  I am not a body man, but had done some leading on a '56 Continental Mark II, so I had a little skill in leading/soldering.  It would require a propane torch, small wire brush, and acid-core solder.  There are probably instructions online (especially youtube) for the details. While it is apart most of the dents can be hammered out with a small hammer and a dolly.  When hammering dents out don't overdo it, because that can stretch the metal.

    -Dwight

  11. I don't really know whether all 1960's Avanti II's came standard with A/C, but certainly most of them.  I have parted out two 1970 Avantis and both had factory A/C.

    It is probably important to buy one with A/C, even if it doesn't work.  If it has A/C it can be fixed.  If it doesn't it can be added, although that would be more difficult and expensive.  A local SDC member had a '63 Avanti to which an aftermarket A/C system had been added, so it can be done.  If adding A/C (or repairing one) one might consider switching to a modern Sanden compressor.  Those are more efficient and effective, and more compact.  Brackets for mounting the Sanden compressor are manufactured (see ad in Turning Wheels, & maybe also Avanti Magazine). 

    -Dwight

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