Dwight FitzSimons
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Posts posted by Dwight FitzSimons
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I would second 64studeavanti's assessment of the block's value. But, as you know, shipping is a big issue.
-Dwight
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There is a casting date code at the very back, near the distributor, that reads: "10 1 R". That translates to October 1, 1962. So, it is an early 1963 block. That would make it a full flow block, a good thing. Being just a bare block (& pistons) it could be used to build a 259, 289, R1, or R2. That is, there is no difference in the bare block (and bore) among these engines.
Another question is what pistons are they? 259s and 289's use different pistons and are not interchangeable. They are flat top, which could indicate that they are R1/R2.
As to value, I don't know, but it is desirable and rare these days.
-Dwight
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I assume you bored it out 0.010 in. oversize. If you installed hardened valve SEATS then you should not need a lead additive. In fact, I have heard little about problems with valve recession in stock Studebaker V8s when running straight, unleaded gasoline. But, I suppose, that might depend on how many miles you drive the car and how hard you drive it.
But, with hardened valve seats, I don't think anyone will recommend a lead substitute.
-Dwight
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The R3 intake manifold has much larger ports, so won't match up to your R2 heads. You would have to have R3/R4 heads to use the R3 intake manifold. Those are scarce as hens teeth and very expensive. Many people have fitted an aluminum R3 carburetor box to an R2. It looks impressive, but there's no horsepower gain from it.
In the pix above the metal line going from the supercharger to the fuel pump exactly follows part of the "dog leg" in the water manifold. That is the dog leg I mentioned. The water manifold for a non-Avanti engine will have just a gentle curve from one side to the other (one head to the other). The Avanti's water manifold has quite a "kink" (or dog leg) in it. It was designed that way to mount the water pump further forward than with a non-Avanti water manifold, and for clearance for other engine components. One vendor who has Avanti water manifolds for sale is Jon Myer in OH.
There has been some discussion of putting FI inside an R3 air box on the SDC Forum.
Your carb # doesn't ring any bells. You WILL need to get a copy of both the Avanti shop manual and parts catalog. Reprints of these are available from vendors. If your carb is configured like the originals then it may be possible to use it, but it would have to be rebuilt by someone like Dave Thibeault. It needs to be sealed for use on an R2.
-Dwight
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Oops!! That isn't light reflecting off the shiny water manifold: It's the line that goes from the fuel pump to the supercharger. It is there so the supercharger can boost the fuel pump.
-Dwight
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1 hour ago, RoyG said:
The engine in the car (according to the serial number) is a '64 289 and it has the oil filter mounted below the exhaust manifold on the right side, so I'm pretty sure it is a free flow block... Not sure what the condition is, but given I want to bore it out at least .60 and replace the pistons and have the cam reground I should have a good place to start. What cam grind to use (and who to have do it) is another question. I've been told that the standard R-1/2 grind is the best overall way to go for a street car, but still looking for thoughts/opinions.
HEADS: I think I've given up on R-3 heads due to the expense, so now do I try to use the stock heads that came with the engine (and have them reworked) or do I try to locate a set of HD truck heads? What are the "pros and cons"....
Carb & Intake: The engine came with a standard two barrel, but the car came with five boxes of parts that a previous owner was accumulating. In one of those boxes is a Carter AFB (tag 40346 L5) that looks pretty sad and a separate four barrel intake manifold (1557144). In another box are several blower parts (blower, pullies, intake hose and mount to carb, and air filter housing), so I'm not sure if the carb/manifold go together or if they came with the blower, or are from the original R-1 engine....
Water pump housing: I've been told that the R-2 engine had a special water pump and housing. If so that means the housing on my engine might need to be replaced?? In one of the "boxes" I found a spare housing (1550913), that might have come from the engine that had the blower????
If any of this "stuff" is correct for an R-2 engine I'll clean it up and look for someone to rebuild. Other than that I'll be looking for more parts.
Roy
Casting number 1557144 is the correct intake manifold for an R2 (or regular 259 or 289). Note that the casting number is cast into the manifold (top rear) and is not the part number. That's what my 64 Avanti R2 has. The water manifold is shaped like a "dog leg" -- see pix below. In the pix the light is reflecting off the water manifold showing its "dog leg" shape. The Avanti water pump must be the heavy duty one that is available from several Studebaker parts vendors. If I can provide more pix or info let me know.
-Dwight.
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Wouldn't using the thicker head gaskets make the quench area "thicker" and therefore increase the chances of the engine to ping?
-Dwight
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I can add a bit of info on this issue. I used to haunt all the local Studebaker dealers in central Virginia, including Valley Motors. I beat the dealership out on the sale of a 63 Hawk R2 being offered to the highest bidder by its original owner. Unfortunately, I didn't keep it for but a few years. Well, so much for reminicing (sp).
In those days The state of Virginia would put BOTH the year manufactured and the model year on the title (as you see above). That is, the title and registration would list the car as a "1962-63". This caused some confusion later. I have a 1964 R1 Cruiser that I bought from the original owner some years ago. It was titled as a 1963-64 (original title). When I went to the DMV to title it (as I always do, even if it's a parts car) the clerk printed out my title and it said "1963 Studebaker 4-dr". I told her that the car is a 64 model year, not a 63. She looked at me like I was trying to pull something, and said they would have to send it to Richmond. (I didn't think at the time to point out the "64" prefix on the serial number, if that would have helped.) A couple weeks later my title came in the mail, correctly listing the car as a "1964 Studebaker 4-dr".
Virginia doesn't do that dual-year thing any more, and I don't know why they did it then.
--Dwight
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The Studebaker SS was labeled a "Studebaker SS" when it was shown in kind of a corner at the NY Auto Show. That is, the nameplates on it were still "Studebaker SS", not Excaliber SS. I was there and was surprised to come upon it during my tour. I remember also seeing the pink Mademoiselle '64 Daytona Conv. in the Studebaker display area.
--Dwight
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False! For 1964 Studebaker dropped the MSRP of the Hawk from (I believe) $3095 to $2958. So, if all the options cost the same, the R2 Hawk would have been cheaper than a similarly equipped 63 Hawk by $137.
--Dwight
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A couple more things that are different: (1) The parking brake connects to the Avanti's backing plates differently on the 11" rear brakes, requiring a rear parking brake cable from an Avanti. That connection is different from any other Studebaker car 9" or 10" rear brakes. Those should be available from some of the Studebaker vendors. (2) The U bolts are narrower on the Dana 27 diff. than on the Dana 44. Thus, the bottom plate will be different. Ideally, you might try to find a Dana 44 diff and brakes from a late 65 or 1966 Studebaker. That would give you flanged axles, a safety issue.
--Dwight
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Everything on the Dana 27 is lighter duty than on the Dana 44 (smaller tubes, smaller axles, smaller brakes, etc). The brakes on the Dana 27 would be either 9" or 10". I'm fairly sure that the 27's brakes wouldn't bolt onto the 44 without some modification. What you need for the Avanti (in addition to the Dana 44 diff.) is the 11" rear brake drums, backing plates, etc that came on Avantis and other disc-brake Studebakers from 1963-up.
--Dwight
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From memory, 168 for the R2, and 178 for the R3. These are records set at Bonneville. Someone correct me if my memory's off.
--Dwight
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For some reason Studebaker put 140 MPH speedos in early 1963 Avanti R2's. Perhaps the 160 speedo wasn't available yet. The Virgil Marple auction sold three '63 R2 Avantis, and if memory serves me, all had 140 speedos. Also, Dave Kinney's 63R1002 R2 Avanti is an R2 and has a 140 speedo. That car was restored meticulously, so must be authentic.
The initial version of the Avanti Authenticity Manual did not point out this issue. I hope someone has notified the author.
--Dwight -
Wireless backup camera. I haven't installed one yet, but will. Costco has one for $150. It uses a solar panel on the license plate frame/bracket, so doesn't need any wire installed.
--Dwight
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One thing I might add is a potential problem with the aluminum "spacers" behind the door handle and window crank. A couple times I have had a problem removing the spring clips that hold the window crank & door handle on. Somehow the spring clips had become jammed and I could not get them off. I had to cut the aluminum spacer off to get the spring clip out. So, I now use the clear plastic spacers used on Larks & Hawks. It is much easier to break off if necessary. Plus, it doesn't leave aluminum oxide on the door panel as aluminum will do.
--Dwight
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Years ago I bought a '64 Avanti from a paralyzed man. He had always wanted an Avanti and was able to manage driving it with his foldable wheelchair behind the driver's seat. After a while, however, he found it to be too difficult and sold the car. That isn't exactly your situation, but maybe this experience will help you make your decision.
Also, Avantis aren't so easy to get in or out of.
--Dwight
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The Real Rodders Wheels, like the original Halibrand magnesium wheels, use a different type of lug nut than we are used to. The wheels do not have a tapered seat, they have a flat seat. The lug nuts also, of course, have a flat seat. Lug nuts are supplied with the wheels. (I have a set, that's how I know.
--Dwight (two '64 Avantis)
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I think "Ford" isn't the only correct answer. When my R3 engine was rebuilt many years ago at WCD Garage in MA Dave Thibeault told me that the best match for the engine color was Buick red. So, that's what it was painted.
--Dwight
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Heads with casting number 1555479 are R3 or R4 heads. An engine with S/N R3S M305 should be one of the ten factory installed by Studebaker (9 Avantis, one Commander 2-dr.). AFAIK all R3 and R4 engines not factory installed in a car should have an A or B prefix on its S/N (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Engine number R3S M305 was assembled on Nov. 5, 1963 (not Dec.--December has a month code of N.)
--Dwight -
The unit of torque is lbs.-ft., not lbs/ft. In other words, torque is force times distance, not force divided by distance. The slash (/), in mathematics means divided by, as in 1/2 = 0.5.
A common term for distance is "moment arm."
-Dwight
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Tached Avanti!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
Production R3 tachs have a pointer; prototype tachs do not.
-Dwight