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Nelson

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Posts posted by Nelson

  1. If you think about it it would make sense that two colors were delivered to the factory so as there was no mix up on the production assembly lines. Lark Hawk being orange on one line and Avanti being black on another line. They are clocked different for the exhaust outlet so don’t interchange without some dismantle/reassembly.

  2. My first Avanti that I bought in the LA area was a 64. It had a B letter after the serial number on the title but not on the plate. I had a hell of a time passing the out of state vehicle inspection in Ohio to get it titled. That was back in 1973.

  3. I see Avantis that I think are solid restoration projects at give away prices. The reason these don’t sell is they are typically considered a money pit. There are salvageable Avantis for $3500 and the same condition mid sixties Corvette might be $20 to 25k. Maybe if Avanti values go up many more will be saved as there is some justification to spend the money to restore them.

  4. I was under the impression that Richard Bennet was trying to work something out with Ed as a trade. I know George Krem had installed the engine In Ed’s Avanti when Krem owned it. George had removed the camshaft as it was too radical or at least didn’t perform on the street. His engine does have the piston’s you described, Brad.The cylinder heads were also ported and cleaned up. I didn’t know Cone actually had the real engine. I did hear there was more than one R5 built but actually two. I assumed that one must have blown on the dyno. I do think Ed’s engine has a high B number which doesn’t seem to make sense. It would be interesting to see what rods are in Ed’s short block.. If they are press fit wrist pins it would give it some credibility. Right now they both may have original R5 engines😬 but only one was in the car when the records were set.

  5. 11 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:

    I have seen a textured finish on the very bottom of some late model cars.  I assume the intent is to prevent or hide chips.  Or, maybe it is to hide rust bubbles on Northern cars.

     There are rattle-can spray paints that produce a "pebbled' finish so I assume this stuff does that too.

    --Dwight

    There use to be a splatter paint but I couldn’t find one. I thought with something like that I could figure out how to spray it to get close to the right texture then sand it to bring the level way down to make it look more like grain. Maybe next time.

  6. 3 hours ago, regnalbob said:

    Nelson, 

    Can you verify the serial number?

    R 3544 is listed as an R2, 4-speed, white with Fawn & Red interior.

    South Bend body # 5082.

    Thanks,

    Bob

    Bob.  Just went out and checked it. Serial # is 63R3544. Body # 63RQ5082 engine # R2497. Where did your info originate? This car is all original. Never repainted with exception of spot work paint is still shot. Body tag is as you would expect mostly gold. Serial number on plate on frame with correct rivets. 140 speed not 160. I had checked the PO prior to purchase and all was correct.

  7. Thanks for the compliments. Yes it’s pretty much all bondo. I did use fiberglass mesh on the large cracks in an effort to keep them from returning. I also did the crack areas with the better bondo with glass fiber already in it. That stuff is a lot harder to sand so all the major applications were done using light weight stuff as it sands easily. There is no grain in the bondoed areas. I bought some spray bed liner thinking it might look like grain but it just looked like paint. I was thinking you might be able to shrink wrap a grained skin on the whole dash? Actually it looks good enough. I doubt there will be many people that notice the different textures

  8. Well I’ve been playing around with a 63 Avanti I bought out of Phoenix Arizona and yesterday I decided to try to resurrect a really shot dash pad. The pad had actually fallen down far enough to hide the instrument. The Arizona heat had pretty much cooked the dash. The car really deserves a new dash pad but trying to recoup a $2000 plus plus investment can be difficult to do with a run of the mill 63 Avanti. So yesterday I decided to try to repair the dash to bring it to something presentable. I didn’t get a picture prior to starting on the project but the dash pad was really BAD! My first picture is after I heated the underside of the pad by the instruments using a heat gun. I was able to raise it back up to its original location with a 4 1/2 inch by 12 inch piece of plywood and a wood prop from the underside of the plywood to the steering column. I left that prop there through the entire process and removed it prior to paint. I then sanded the top of the pad with 80 grit paper. I also completely cleaned the entire dash with “Prep All” prior to doing any work. All cracks were reinforced with fiberglass mesh to keep the crack from returning. After those repairs were made I started with the bondo. Shaping the bondo a cheese grader was used to rough in the shape followed by 36 grit sand paper to 150 grit to 400 grit. I found a close match to the original elk dash color in a Rustolium spray paint called French Beige.

    I have about $25 wrapped up in the project and a good day to day and a half worth of work. It looks pretty decent. Not a new pad for sure but beats what was there and looks better than a carpet covering the pad.

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