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Posts posted by Nelson

  1. Leo, I have R1016 which was the factory mule used at Paxton for R3/4 experimentation. It had at least one R3 engine in it during road tests. However, when it left Paxton I’m fairly sure it was equipped with an R4. In 1968 it still had the R4 but had the R3 blower setup on it. I’m trying to figure out the history on this car. Original owner is gone so information is getting difficult to track down.

  2. Thanks, Leo. I am aware of the documented R4 cars but I am also certain Studebaker had an R4 engine installed in an Avanti, probably as a preproduction car. Many years ago I actually saw the factory photograph of the car, probably when I was doing some research at the archives prior to the museum. I’m sure that photo still exists somewhere but I’m having trouble finding it.

  3. 35 minutes ago, mfg said:

    Sometime check out the valve lifters in an original 232CI Stude V8...INCREDIBLY THICK LIFTER WALLS...which I think Studebaker stuck with till the 259CI was introduced in '55.

    That’s strange. You would think that after all the cam problems they had in 51 they would have been trying to reduce valve train weight.

  4. Did you ever look at the wrist pin in a Stude? It is very strong but heavy. The ID gets smaller toward the mid section. Very strong but again a lot of reciprocating weight. I would think they could have saved several 1960 dollars per car if they would have taken a hard look at the rods and pistons.

  5. 1 hour ago, mfg said:

    It may have been Jim Lange's full race Bonneville Stude Avanti engine that had the full floating wrist pins.

    I think he did/does run those pins. I never understood why you wouldn’t run full floating pins. I’m sure there is a reason. That bolt and nut and additional machining to the rods done by Studebaker had to be expensive. I wonder what they were thinking?

  6. Well good, we all learn on this site! To clarify the rods on the R3/4 engines: only the first 50 or so engines had the special rods with pressed pins in the rod. After that the standard Stude rod was used.

  7. Let’s see: contacts on the switches burn and lose their contacts, the breaker under the hood goes bad, the fiberglass cracks around the regulator and water gets into the motor causing it to freeze up. Also the stops for the window travel get lose and allow over travel, wires on the earlier or rather everything but the late models have wiring that can break or short as it’s not in a controlled run at the hinge post as in the late 64’s. Etc. etc.

  8. Could well be. I don’t think the combustion chambers were tampered with. I can’t remember what the tops of the pistons looked like ie. Flat or dished.it had R3 rods so I saved those and gave the crank and pistons to a fellow Stude nut who was going to try and do something with them. that never did happen.

  9. Well the next guess will be three. It’s been years ago but I had all of them collected and probably still do. My memory is foggy but there were at least three different ones. You would never notice at first glance but the difference are significant and mostly in the wording. I wonder if the three (or more) are listed separately in the parts manual? I’m not home to check.

  10. 12 hours ago, mfg said:

    So, the Granatelli's actually could have done this to the engine in 63R1025!.... (to gain the CI without reaching for the boring bar!)

    A machine shop in Michigan did that work not Paxton. The block was furnished by Paxton and I think they offered stroker kits maybe out to a 1/4 inch but I don’t think anyone had tried a 5/8 stroker before and I think it’s obvious why now that I’ve torn one down.

  11. I think about 350 cubic inch. Miles told me it was a 360 plus motor but I think he thought it started out a 304.

    I never believed the 5/8 stroker story until I dismantled it. It was so much stroke that the rod caps would have hit the cam-lobes so the cam was remade with a reduced base circle. I don’t know how they expected it to survive? I seem to remember the wrist pin peeking out the bottom of the cylinder when turning over the engine with the pan off. The engine was built totally on the edge.

  12. I am shooting from the hip as I’m on the road with no reference shop manual but…when you put the ram back on did you put the hoses back on the ram in the correct location not reversed? Also, I seem to remember a deflector in the reservoir that keeps the return fluid under control and not blowing against the lid. Maybe I’m just dreaming that? Also, could you have a cracked fitting or lose fitting hose to pump?

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