Nelson

I’ve mentioned this before years ago using type F trans fluid.I noticed the dipstick would get very hot, especially on long trips. It was so hot that I needed a rag to insulated my fingers from the dipstick when pulling it out to check the level. I also went through drive sets too often. I changed over to Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid. I found that I could now check the oil without using a rag but just my bare hands. I would think this tells me the fluid is not being sheared at the bearing interface which would produce the heat. My bearing problem is gone. Maybe the B&M Trickshift does the same thing? Did you notice a reduction in blower temperature on trips or even around town?

Maybe I was just more impressionable at twenty years old but it sticks like glue in my memory. I’ll bet you were in your younger years when that tri power GTO made its mark in your memory?

I’ve driven Studes with all the different R engines and the one that sticks with me as the best sounding from the driver’s seat is actually the R1. The reason could be that my first hippo Stude was a 63 R1 4 spd which I flogged relentlessly. The exhaust was running through silent mufflers and was a good sound but the induction noise when the secondaries of the afb opening was shear symphonic. It just made me want to run it to 6200 rpm and power shift to the next gear which I did often. The only improvement to the induction noise would be four two barrel Webers.

Yes they do bolt right on the big bore engine. Hopefully we will see how that assembly goes in the near future. The engine is earmarked for a factory Super Package Commander.

No they didn’t number them. Even the standard casting number was on them. They were cast on Veterans Day 1963 by the date code. There is a V or N (?) cast into the side of the block. This block was discussed in an old SDC thread.

Heck, I often run 45 psi in the front. If you’re really worried just drop it to 44. 🤫

put more air in the front tires. Try 45 psi for a start.

As I said, pretty cool. The doctor had good taste.

That is pretty cool to have that work done at the factory and then being painted black. Did you ever get the history on the car?

Dwight. Is that Walt Boetchers old car?

A note on correct Avanti water pumps and how they differ from standard pumps. The tower on the Avanti pump is taller than a standard V8 pump, the bearing used in both pumps is the same. The position of the Avanti bearing is closer to the front of the car which is allowable due to the taller tower. The fan pulley mounting flange is pressed on the shaft almost to the top of the casting tower on the Avanti style and not nearly as far as with the standard V8. The distance from the fan flange mounting surface to the gasket surface is the same on both pumps. The water pump bearing have a front set of ball bearings and a rear set. The Avanti setup, with correct pump, all the belt load is distributed evenly between the front and rear bearing set. When using a standard V8 pump all the load is taken by the front set of bearing. The result is rapid bearing failure at the front of the pump.

I noticed that hole also. I don’t remember why it was there but I put about five layers of aluminum duct tape over it as I’m sure the ice would find it and walk right in.

Great photo. I would love to have met him and taken him to dinner just to bs.

Some of the Bonneville cars had #’s lower than B9. I would think the B #’s started at 1. Some may have been destroyed on a dyno but the numbers certainly would have started at 1.

I always thought the car probably had frequent engine changes so they just never reinstalled a fan shroud. However, the broken idler during the road test could be the reason. I remember Andy saying the car always overheated which it most certainly would with no fan shroud. You would think Andy would have realized that? That was back in the day when Avantis had shrouds with the bottom section in it. Later everyone started cutting the bottom of the shroud away which made changing water pumps a much easier job.