Nelson

Just sent a pm.

They probably would have lost the vinyl top at speed.

Anybody have a damaged Avanti radiator shroud. I’d like to do some cutting and reforming but don’t want to cut up the good one on my car.

Probably 62. Not sure of any being titled as 1962.

Who wrote that article? Pretty screwed up from what I’ve read. For someone pushing the marque their information is very flawed.

Does a racing water pump circulate more water or less water. I would think less water to not use extra HP?

You are right on the traction required. The traction actually comes from the steel balls giving a little bit at the interface with the race. Sort of like where the tire meets the ground. A friend tried precision ceramic drive balls in a blower thinking since they were lighter they wouldn’t have the tendency to spread the outer races from the centrifugal force at higher rpm. What happened is the balls easily slipped on the inner race. The ceramic balls did not flatten at all at the interface so could not get traction to transfer the energy. As for Valvoline synthetic trans fluid not working out in your blower I’m not sure what to tell you. I’ve had multiple failures with type f fluid and none with Mobile 1 synthetic. A friend down in Australia just wrote me the other day. He has less than 2000 miles on his rebuilt Paxton running type F fluid and it started growling so is now off the car and into the repair shop. Also, at one time Paxton Products used the engine oiling system to lubricate the blower. They discontinued that method but I think due to contaminating the engine oil when the inevitable blower failure occurred.

I’ve mentioned this before years ago using type F trans fluid.I noticed the dipstick would get very hot, especially on long trips. It was so hot that I needed a rag to insulated my fingers from the dipstick when pulling it out to check the level. I also went through drive sets too often. I changed over to Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid. I found that I could now check the oil without using a rag but just my bare hands. I would think this tells me the fluid is not being sheared at the bearing interface which would produce the heat. My bearing problem is gone. Maybe the B&M Trickshift does the same thing? Did you notice a reduction in blower temperature on trips or even around town?

Maybe I was just more impressionable at twenty years old but it sticks like glue in my memory. I’ll bet you were in your younger years when that tri power GTO made its mark in your memory?

I’ve driven Studes with all the different R engines and the one that sticks with me as the best sounding from the driver’s seat is actually the R1. The reason could be that my first hippo Stude was a 63 R1 4 spd which I flogged relentlessly. The exhaust was running through silent mufflers and was a good sound but the induction noise when the secondaries of the afb opening was shear symphonic. It just made me want to run it to 6200 rpm and power shift to the next gear which I did often. The only improvement to the induction noise would be four two barrel Webers.

Yes they do bolt right on the big bore engine. Hopefully we will see how that assembly goes in the near future. The engine is earmarked for a factory Super Package Commander.

No they didn’t number them. Even the standard casting number was on them. They were cast on Veterans Day 1963 by the date code. There is a V or N (?) cast into the side of the block. This block was discussed in an old SDC thread.

Heck, I often run 45 psi in the front. If you’re really worried just drop it to 44. 🤫

put more air in the front tires. Try 45 psi for a start.

As I said, pretty cool. The doctor had good taste.