r1lark

I saw some pictures of those online, looked like a good sturdy system.

Getting ready to put on a new (new to me, not brand new) set of Magnum 500 wheels, and noticed that all the center caps are loose. Pulled them all off, and found two different methods of holding them on. One method was using the flat style 'speed nut' to hold the cap to the retainer; it appears that the speed nut was just pushed down until it bit into the stud, but there was really no way to tighten them uo: The speed nuts were a bear to get off, they did not 'screw' off, finally just bent the tabs. The 'studs' on the back side of the cap on this one was pretty bunged up. This was the worst one, but the others were not too much better: Two of the other caps were held on with what were similar to 'Pal' nuts, but are actually called thread cutting nuts, made to be used on studs with no threads: I figure these thread cutting nuts were the original method of holding the caps on. On one of the retainers, someone in the past had glopped on silicone to help hold it to the wheel; this was actually the tightest cap, hardly any movement -- but the nuts still were not able to be tightened properly: So, finally to my question -- given the condition of the 'studs' on the center caps, the thread cutting nuts don't tighten up properly. Not sure if new ones would improve that or not (but doubt it, especially on the worst condition studs). And the sheetmetal speed nuts I do not want to use, they for sure don't tighten up and are a bear to remove. Has anyone had this issue, and found an acceptable solution and/or modification (besides buying a set of reproduction center caps)?

Looks like the longer wheelbase LSC. Lots of good parts there for the money, especially interior.

Stu, I would suggest investing in an Avanti shop manual and using it when you do work on your car. The manual describes the distributor installation (just as Nelson described it above), along with most other work you might do on the car. Most all the larger vendors should be able to fix you up, and some may have it in a digital version.

Good to meet you at the Maggie Valley meet Dan!

$51K, not too bad!

Who made/sold the kit?

If you drilled out the '61/'62 bellhousing as Ed suggests, you could use either an early T10 or the later T10. I guess that is "either direction".

@JimM JimM, you messaged me about this parts manual, and I responded back to your message. Haven't heard anything back from you, do you still want it?

The serial number is RQB-1582 which is a 1970. It was also converted from a chrome bumper to the later style bumpers. The factory didn't do the convertible conversion..................read part of this Turning Wheels article that I've posted below. The full article is here on Bob Johnstone's site: http://studebaker-info.org/AOAI/AOAI92/1985ConvProto.html This car for sale is the Doyne prototype:

False, because the VS at least requires a kickdown switch and wiring to be adapted that the Lark didn't use.

I'll say #4, eight parts because I think there are 5 balls, plus the ball driver, and two races. (if the output shaft surface is damaged, that would be another item to replace.)

This item has been SOLD! Studebaker Tar and Road Oil Remover Can, from 1963/1964, very nice condition, empty, displays very nicely, see pictures. Great item for your man cave, or to display with your Studebaker or Avanti. $18 plus USPS shipping cost. Payment via check or Zelle. If interested, or have questions, please either message me via this forum, or email me at: r1lark at aol dot com (letter "r", numeral "one", lark)

Don't know if there is any real right or wrong to this. I've found that (on Larks at least, haven't had an Avanti yet) there are a lot more places for wear on the suspended pedal clutch linkage. I have one 'thru the floor' clutch linkage car ('54 Regal 4-door sedan) and several Lark suspended setups, but I think I prefer the under the floor setup better. I'm sure to the buying public it was a big improvement at the time................and of course a 'thru the floor' clutch would look pretty stupid on a "modern" sports car like the Avanti. Anyway, I'll say FALSE because of the increase in the number of wear points.

*SOLD* Original Avanti Chassis and Body Parts Manual, Used Used Avanti Chassis and Body Parts Manual, used condition. All there, some small areas of rodent damage on first sheet (page), and then smaller areas on the next eleven or so sheets. $20 plus USPS shipping cost. Payment via check or Zelle. If interested, or have questions, please either message me via this forum, or email me at: r1lark at aol dot com (letter "r", numeral "one", lark)